John L
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Posts posted by John L
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The weight is about 90kg, But also by leaning on the back wing it would open up a bit, and if jack at the outer corner by the trailing arm it open more, but you can still open the door, its a bit hard to pull, but its not locked completely.
I think I will take to CTM shortly and get them to give me difinative answer.
Regards John
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GT ee
I have just double checked the manifold again and its a 6 3 1. but I have no idea who's make it is.
I would be interested to know whats necessary for the MU though.
It has also had a stage 2 unleaded fitted.
Regards John
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GT ee
What actually has to done the the metering unit, I have a 6 2 1 manifold with a straight thru 2 1/2" pipe and a single silencer at the rear with a cranked up pipe.
Is it just a matter of making sure the CO is correct, and altering accordingly? Will it need to richer or leaner?
Regards John
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Thank you for your comments.
From the comments, some of feel it should flex and some say it shouldnt, I must say I would have thought that it should be better than it is in my case. I could accept 2-3 mm, but surely more that this must mean something?
Does the body in any way add to the strength?, as it all seems to bend at the point behind the seats. Does the rear section of the gearbox tunnel add some rigidity to the body at all? I havent dug around this part yet to see if something is moving at this point, or if the welds are broken.
Need to do some some research I think?
Regards John
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I was rather alarmed the other day when a friend perched on the rear wing, to notice that the top of door gap has got bigger. It goes back again once the weight is off.
I have had a thorough look underneath and can see nothing untoward, have I missed something? but having never tried this on any other car, so I have nothing to go on. It seemed that the whole of the rear tub is able to move, I have looked at the tea shirt part, but of course I cannot see on the top of it, to see if any of the welds have come adrift. All the body mounts appear to be tight.
Can anybody tell me if I do have a problem, or was this how flexible the chassis always was?
Regards John
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For your little red caps you could go to a Diesel repair shop like a Bosch Fuel injection, or is Delphi now, they use them for sealing up the holes on injection pumps, or you could try a hydraulic pipe fitting repair shop they would use the same, for sealing the ends of hydraulic hoses.
Regards John
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Take out the clevis pin on the pedal, try and jam the pedal it so its at the top of its travel, as you dont have a return spring, make sure the pushrod is fully pulled out of the master cylinder, and adjust the clevis so that there is some free play. There should be a bit of free travel on the push rod before when the pedal is then pushed, this makes sure that the master cylinder can fill the chamber from the reservoir.
You could disconnect, or loosen the pipe down near the clutch and see if fluid runs out, if the reservoir is full, also make sure that the the bleed pipe comes out of the top of the slave cylinder.
If you open the bleed nipple, the fluid should really run out on its own.
Hope this helps
Regards John
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I had a very similar type problem with mine when I bought it.
I managed to do many little things that added up to a much better feel to the pedal.
The current synthetic oil doesnt help with the lubricity of the seals in the slave cylinder, I managed to get some new dot 4 fluid that was not synthetic.
Lubricate the cross shaft pivots.
I checked and found that that the correct dowel bolts were not in the clutch bell housing, having fitted these it was all aligned much better.
The pedal pivot, and the pin it the master cylinder all want to be in good condition and have some lubrication on them. The master cylinder clevis does wear, as does the pedal hole.
These are the items that made it a lot better on mine, but it is still quite stiff to operate.
Worth to check which diameter master cylinder you have, I think the 3/4" is the best.
The spring will not do anything for this problem, all it does is to make sure the valve at the end of the master cylinder is open to the resevoir, after each operation of the pedal, and allows some self bleeding, and makes sure there is fluid in there for the next stroke
Hope this helps
John
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Ive had a chance to check it now.
Its got some stronger springs that are about 10 and a bit inches long, may have settled a bit, the drivers side is just 10", but it is fitted with a large spacer about 11mm thick on both sides (at the bottom) plus the rubbers top and bottom.
Its fitted with Koni with adjustable shockers, and with 3 brackets to mount them on.
This has raised the car a lot, about 80mm from the top of the tyre to the wheel arch. Actually its a 5.
If I use these springs without the spacers Im concerned that the spring may come out at full extension of the shock.
What would be the best spring to go for if I was to replace it with something a bit harder than std?
This car had these parts fitted in Australia, and is now back here and the springs are a pale blue colour, would anybody know what they would be rated at?
Regards John
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How much gap should there be between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch, obviously when its on level ground. At the moment there seems to much more of a gap on the passenger side compared to the drivers side.
I understand from the previous owner that it has got some tougher springs fitted, with the Koni telescopic adjustable shockers, so I would have thought that it should stand up level at the rear?
John
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There is lots of information on the Buckeye Trumph site about overhauling and vacuum testing off the car.
http://web.archive.org/web/20040205235144/...x_technical.htm
Hope this helps
Regards John
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When a 4wheel alignment is done, what should be the height to the underside of the chassis be?
I have seen that it recommends that weights should be put on the seats, but at what points on the front and rear of the chassis should you measure up/down to the ground, and what is the best height to get it setup at?
Should the chassis be flat all the way from the front to after the tee shirt bit in the middle , I know that then the rear members do rise a bit, but its more the front part I'm concerned with, any help would be appreciated. I just want to make sure this isnt a bit bent first.
Regards John
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It could be that the rear slave cylinders are returning, are the shoes adjusted up properly. It would be good to close the rear circuit off by clamping the rear flexible pipe with a proper tool of course, and see if this restores the pedal height, you could then go round all the rubber pipes with 4 clamps then the pedal should be hard, that way you know which caliper or brake is at fault.
John
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I fitted Mintex 1144's to my 5, and I find this really accepatable to what it was before, plenty of bite, for what its worth. Also have them on my Westfield V8.
John
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You could at one time a little buy a jar of Lucas electrical smoke does any body remember?
J
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The metal part of the dash behind the wood has come away from the bolts at the top of the dash.
Does the wood part come off separately, do all the gauges have to come off first to get the wood off?
Any coments would be appreciated
John
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My indicators are the same on the TR5, I havent fully investigated it yet, but could it be that the repeater bulbs on the side are the wrong wattage, but I have no idea what they should be. The front and rear are obviously 21w.
Could anybody help please.
Regards John
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Does anybody have a drawing/picture of the brake shim that is fitted on the front caliper between the pad and the piston. The pads seem to be the same as a Ford M16 caliper?
John
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The O for the overdrive on mine is right to the right of the serial number but on all the documents V55 its been added into to the serial number , is this correct? Should I leave it or should it really be changed?
Regards John
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Heliguy
The Innovate tool is great I have used it a lot for other carburettor cars, the co sensor fits in the end of the exhaust pipe, and it gives you the co reading at all engine speeds, I have added the rpm kit to it as well. This also allows adding in pot position, temp, and any other things you want to record. You can also drive with it so you can then read the co at all levels, download to a computer and see all the info. www.innovatemotorsports.com
I have certainly improved the idle settings, and will work later when the weather is better to do the whole range. It doesnt seem to be that difficult. Hope that helps?
Regards John
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I have had some good success with the Inovate, its a wide band CO meter. It will also log up to about 40 mins of driving.
I was able to do a little adjustment to the largest nut under the top hat, by screwing it out less than than a quarter of a turn, but this screw will alter the fueling right thru all the range.
I also noted that the 2 screws that hold the top hat on, can cause a vacuum leak, so put some silicone on these screws.
I havent had time yet to do a complete run and log the details, but it does now run I feel better, it was about 8% at idle, I have now got it to about 3.5%, I didnt take any mileage consumption figures.
One other question I do have, I havent found on any document yet the position of the injection pipes onto the MU, can anybody help please.
Regards John
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What's the current equivelent now for EP90 in the gearbox and overdrive, is there now something better?
What do you guys fill it with?
Regards John
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Hi I have just bought a TR5 and so am new to the Forum
I have been using an Innovate wide band oxygen sensor on my other carburettor cars and wonder if it will be possible to use this on the TR. Its not running that bad, but I would like to make sure that its correct.
Will it be possible to make adjustments to the meter unit to improve the co.
I would also like to make sure the injectors are working correctly, I understand that these can weep a bit from the o ring inside, is it easy to dismantle these and change the o ring? I have the pressure test equipment to do it.
Your help would be much appreciated. Regards John
Play in front wheel.
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Concerning the thickness of the felt seal, its quoted in the book by Roger Williams at the bottom of page 129. You could compare them with the ones taken out? It may be difficult to get the free play in the bearing correct otherwise.
John