John L
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Posts posted by John L
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Is there any way to be able to get one these, all the suppliers dont seem to have them anymore.
I'm sure this wasnt the only servo that this valve was fitted too, or was it? Is there another car I could search for?
Does anybody have an old scrap unit with a bayonet fitting I could purchase please?
John
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The rubber jointed here are in need of replacement, the ones that I have are actually rubber hose, formed at an angle, I see the new parts are made of a neopreen looking material.
Can anybody tell me what should be the right parts here be rubber or plasticily ones, as I think the neopreen ones dont look right, if the rubber ones are correct where can I get them from please?
HNY John
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This looks like a good spot, unfortunately I was only able to go on Sunday and it was closed, but there are nice models for sale. A couple 6's in the show room but couldnt really see them.
http://www.britishsportscars.com/
I took a couple of pictures thru the window, but how do I add them on here?
John
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I presume you have undone the plate screws and snapped them closed and the retighten them? Should centre the plates.
Which one passes more air, is it the one with the throttle lever, if so I would presume that the shaft is worn.
May be worth checking the diameter of the body, to see if they are actually the same diameter.
Make sure also that if the plates have been out, that they are back the right way round, there is a bevel on the edge, I think there is also a mark, I think on mine it was a diamond shape stamped into the plate, at least make sure they are all on the same side.
John
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Stuart
I couldnt find any details for that garage, do you have any contact details?
John
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I'm fortunate enough to be visiting LA in the next few days, for work I may add, and wondered if there were any TR members in the north of LA as thats where I will be. I wondered if it would be possible to meet up?
Regards John
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NTC
Well tell us then!
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I found it was not only the fuel gauge gasket, a cork one but also where the terminal goes out thu the top plate of the guage, some silicone fixed that, I think I put some on both sides to be sure and no more smelly boots.
Regards John
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There a couple of other ways to get them out, you could try heating them up with some gas, often it will soften the locktite, or use a socket that will just fit over the plug and give it a good bang with a copper hammer so not to damage the socket, this works for many tight plugs and loosens the tread.
Make sure you can get replacements first if you have resort to drilling out!
John
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Proper engineering way is to use 2 hammers, one bigger than the other.
Free off the nut first to clear the nylock
Hold large hammer at the side, or on the inside of the steering arm at the point the track rod goes into the steering arm, use the other lighter hammer and hit the opposite side with a good blow not a little tap, this shocks the taper appart.
Like the camel joke dont get your thumbs between!
Make sure when replacing the new that there is no grease on either taper as you will not be able to tighten the nylock nut!
Regards John
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Its important that the water in the overflow bottle covers the pipe into the bottle, also that the pipe is a good fit, air tight on the radiator outlet, because as the water cools in the radiator it will draw water back in from the overflow bottle, but if there is an air leak or its above the water level in the bottle it will draw air in, and then you have the trouble all over again of a large slug of air in there.
Make sure the heater valve is turned on fully open when you do bleed the system.
Regards John
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Its not really a problem but looking at the angle that the trackrod comes from the rack, I would have thought that it would be a big problem, so was just curious to see if anybody had investigated this point.
I had a Westfield V8 before and that made a big difference to the handling, and turn ins.
Perhaps thats why the handling is not so good?
Perhaps I should have posted this on the competition site? But I suppose if you fit a big enough rollbar to stop it rolling then it wont be such a big issue?
John
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Has anybody done any bump steer tests on the front 6 suspension?
My question is there must be some with a steering rod angled down as it is, and have wondered if anybody has made a new steering lever arm on the king pin to compensate for this.
I would be interested in anybodies views on this.
Regards John
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Had some done recently at Maidstone Sports Cars, Headcorn TN27 9PP 01622890233
John
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The top cover of the metering unit should be air tight, have the screw holes sealed on the inside with Araldite or similar, then for sure you wont draw air, I have also used silicon on the plastic top cover.
I use a vacuum pump to see if it holds a vacuum, its called Mighty Vac, http://www.mityvac.com/ useful for other things as well.
John
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I'm interested in setting the MU up with the aid of a wide band oxygen sensor.
Has anybody had there MU setup recently who could give me a CO figure or an air/fuel ratio figure.
So far I have been able to get some quite good results, but would love to compare them to a unit that had been setup on a test bench.
Regards John
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I have both front and rear set at the soft setting now, will try this out for a bit and see whats it like. Much improved from what it was.
I'm not exactly sure what springs are on the rear, they are just painted pale blue all over, the fronts are Revingtons with a red and light blue strip. Will check out the front roll, as I dont have roll bars.
Interesting comments from everybody.
Regards John
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I have a set of these already on the car, but the ride does seem to be very harsh, I know how to adjust them, but wondered if anybody had arrived at a suitable amount of turns or degrees from fully soft?
I realise its a personal choice, but as its guite a bit of work to adjust them I would like to have a better starting point than fully soft.
Regards John
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Thanks, NTC thats the stuff, I have a 205 GTI that I think needs a drink of it, as I cannot find an external leak anywhere.
Regards J
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I've had a search here but didnt find the one item that I was looking for, perhaps somebody can help,
I have a small water leak on another car and had seen on here and came well recommended, a product for adding to the water for sealing not like the usual ones, can anybody advise, and where it can be obtained from please.
Regards John
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Does anybody use the real stuff, or is it priced too expensive now?
http://www.jec.org.uk/thrust.htm
Would be interseted to know, if its not used will it die?
John
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2 thingsI have found useful in diagnosing problems,
1, Use a proper brake pipe clamp and clamp each wheel in turn and see if the pedal travel is minimised, if so the one you blanked off returns a tight pedal then its in that brake caliper or cylinder.
2, Which has worked on bikes and motor bikes is to keep pressure on the fluid overnight, this then collects all the small air bubbles and can then be bleed out in the morning, so with the aid of the servo press the pedal as hard as possible and then jam a piece of wood between the pedal and the seat, and leave overnight, it has certainly worked on mountain bikes with hydraulic disc brakes.
It has always amased me that we try and pump air down the system, I'm sure if there is a troublesome unit it would be better to push new fluid in from the bottom...beware not to overflow the master cylinder!
John
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I fitted a new stub recently, and could'nt get the bearings to seat properly, on further examination the flat on the stub axle for the outer washer to stop it turning was not cut as deep as the original, so even thorgh the nut was tight the washer was not clamping up the bearings, perhaps worth a check?
Regards John
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Tonyl
The thick mark should align with TDC, I think that your pulley has probably moved on the rubber damper section, so take that into account when you do your timing.
John
Non return valve Servo
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Thanks for the alternatives, But part of the nylon valve is broken on the sealing area, so it leaking into the servo, but I also think the one way valve is also not working, so can be cured with the other parts.
The rest of the unit seems to be working ok, so I need some way to get this valve to seal in the body.
I had thought that it was possible to file out the lugs and fit a grommet for the push in type, but I dont know the size of that, and how do you collect all the filings while you file it out?
John