John L
-
Content Count
1,670 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by John L
-
-
Richard,
Once you have the gear in the right place, turn the crankshaft to 10 degrees before TDC on the #1 cylinder, both #1 cylinder valves closed, turn the distributor so the points are just about to open, dont forget the rotor will be turning anticlockwise, fit the rotor arm, this will be the position of #1 plug lead, then reposition the other leads in an anticlockwise direction, 1 5 3 6 2 4.
Once its running you may have to turn the distributor to get the correct timing with a strobe light.
You might want to plug the advance outlet tube on the carburettor to stop an air leak, to at least get the engine running something like, then add it later and make final adjustments.
Let us know how that goes please.
John
-
Hi Andrew and welcome to the Forum, It may be helpful to us to add you location to your account then others can make better recommendations based on you location.
Timken are meant to be the best, but NTN I don't think are that bad, as made in Japan, but perhaps some of the other cheaper ones may be suspect.
Where are you getting those prices from, it may be better to go to a bearing supplier, but you would need the bearing numbers which I don't have to hand, but maybe someone else may come along soon and add them.
John
-
Roy, I think your picture relates to a PI setup, the carb setup is just like Richard has, but not sure where his crank is though, waiting for his confirmation.
It doesn't matter where that slot is, you set the plug leads to number 1 position, and then follow round in the correct order anticlockwise, what it does upset is the position of the rev counter drive, the engine will still run but you cannot connect the taco drive, or the vacuum capsule fowls on something perhaps.
john
-
I think you have to determine if the issue is actually in the front.
Why not eliminate the rear brakes, clamp off the rubber hoses at the trailing arms, if the pedal is now good, the problem is in the rear brakes.
Have you tried locking the brake pedal down overnight, this nearly always works to get rid of the last bubbles.
Have you checked the brake pushrod to the servo clearance?
John
-
I have the ones in the top photo, the long one goes at the front right behind the water pump and the flat one at the rear where the earth strap mounts
John
-
Richard.
From your photo of the distributor drive position, it would appear that the position is the same as the manual, correct, BUT what is the crankshaft position? It should be at 4 degrees after TDC on #1 firing stroke, can you confirm that please?
You need to have the rocker cover off to confirm the position of the valves opening and closing, dont forget that the number 2 valve is the inlet one.
On the side of the distributor you will find a Lucas number and a date code, please post those 2 on here so we know which one you have fitted. We presume this engine did run nicely before you decided to take it bits?
Did you actually download the workshop manual from the TR site?
John
-
Jumper leads, or a battery pack to just start if you leave your lights on! and a multimeter so you can identify the problem.
My 5500mile trip to Helsinky 2 years ago, all I needed was a battery in Moscow! It will be the one part you didn't think to take, however much stuff you take, it will be the problem, it always is.
My worst fear in Russia, was a mechanical failure, as my Visa was for a set time period only, and didnt want to try explain overstaying, so a rope was added, so I could at least get a tow to the border in necessary!
I have also noticed lately its very difficult to get an inner tube repaired believe it or not, so I would take a inner tube.
John
-
Whats the item you have connected to number 2 sparkplug wire, I presume its a spark indicator?, so are you getting a spark/flash there, when the engine is cranked?
Whats the black wire connected to the + terminal on the coil? That should be the 12volt feed with ignition on, usually it was white wire.
Which electronic unit is fitted, Petronix, accuspark or other?
check the slow running screw on both carbs, turn them in to just open the butterfly a small amount, you said you could hear the front one sucking perhaps the rear needs to be a bit more open.
What sequence/ how did you adjust the tappets, and what clearance are they set too?
John
-
This is a great tool to make up,, no possibility to get the adjustment wrong,
John
-
Look on the Revington TR site, they do have a good one that is split and does have the access panels, as well as a lift off top.
John
-
Do you mean items 10,11,18, here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/interior/trim-panels-fittings/interior-trim-kits-tr5-tr250-tr6-to-c-cp-cc50000-1967-69.html but only in black it seems.
John
-
Martin, Not knowing where you are based from your profile, here is the reference and a supplier in UK, there may be many, if that helps,
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/bosch-blue-high-energy-coil-0-221-119-027-sport-coil
This is a 3 ohm coil.
John
-
-
-
What should the secondary coil resistance be for a 3ohm coil?
Will a high energy coil like a Flamethrower or a Bosch blue one, have a higher secondary reading than say a std Lucus DLB 101?
I have several 3ohm coils with slightly different secondary values, and wondered which value would give the better spark?
John
-
Have you tried calling Past Parts, they may sell you one
John
-
Did you find the mystery noise? Could it have been an exhaust manifold leak, as most of the other parts seem/look ok?
John
-
Can you post a picture, we may be able recognise it?
John
-
I've had another look at this today, inside the regulator is a USA address, for a solid state voltage regulator, so it would seem that it is still a dynamo, the red light is now on all the time with the key on, even reving the engine and there appears to be no output from the large wire with a volt meter.
Do I now assume that it could be a brush problem? Do I follow the old Lucas tests for a dynamo?
Thank you Rob for your wisdom, sorry I wasnt correct in the first instance, the guy hasnt had the car that long, and was told that it did have a alternator fitted, but I think this box now confirms its not an alternator, I found this website and address matches the label in the control box. https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et232.htm
Thanks again, John
-
Its a black body with ali endcaps and a tacho drive on the end, I'll give it a closer look for any markings, it just has 2 wires at the rear, a large and and a small, just like a dynamo. Could it still be a dynamo with that sort of control box, I've seen others with a large fuse across 2 terminals inside.
John
-
I hope I can ask this on here, I'm helping a friend with an MG TD, that he thinks has a Dynator instead of the old dynamo, looks just the same. The red warning light comes on at times, and does go off again, we havent put a voltmeter on it yet, so wanted to try and get some info before mucking this up. It does have an old style black control box, I looked inside, it doesn't have the usual 2 coils, it just has a small printed circuit board, so didn't want to do anything just yet until I know what to check.
I think it should be the same sort of unit that could be fitted on TR's perhaps.
Any info would be greatly received.
John
-
Moss do one, https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/gasket-set-fuel-sender-ethanol-proof-293-401.html?assoc=591152
Not sure where the oblong one goes though.
I have one ready to fit but not done yet.
John
-
I did find this document, that says it can be a closed, page 37, Frame 35, with a hole open at TDC the injection will have started well before TDC, so I have now plumped for the closed position it opens about 10-15 degress ATDC, at least the piston is going down and should be sucking, I will see how it goes, the CR engines were after TDC as well, was that to help for the emissions or the camshaft, would anybody know?
John
Triumph Service Training Notes TR6, TR5, 2.5 Lucas Petrol Injection.pdf
-
I'm in need of some further advise about the timing of my new cam please.
Its a Piper 2TY, 32/72/72/32 I have set the crank at TDC and turned the cam to give 0.080" lift on #1 inlet, this dimension also matches the full lift of the inlet valve at 110 degrees as per the Pipers spec sheet. Happy with that.
Now I cannot get the metering unit to be just opening at TDC, I can only think that the gears are cut at perhaps a different position, its a CP engine, but surely I shouldnt have to set it as a CR surely?
Any help would be much appreciated please.
John
Front Wheel Bearings
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I did a google search its easier that the Forum one, and found I asked the same question some years ago, how time flies and I'd forgotten, but should help with some numbers?