John L
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Posts posted by John L
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But it doesn't, that's why I asked here!
John
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I understand that this carb could have been fitted to USA TR's and Spitfire cars with the emission stuff on.
I'm looking for some info on 3 items that I don't seem to be able to find anywhere.
I'm playing with an auto choke model, and would like to know how to set the butterfly idle screw, its fitted with a 10mm spanner sized locknut. So I would think its set once and never needs setting again? I cannot find any reference to the base setting for this screw, I'm beginning to think that it should be set with the butterfly just about to open, and that the idle speed is then controlled by the idle bypass valve, am I correct?
The other item I'm after is the depth of how far the fixed main jet is pressed in below the bridge, from some info I think it should be 0.100" below the bridge is that correct, and not in the middle of the jet as that is a bit recessed?
The last item is that there was a Delrin washer on the adjustable fuel metering needle, that is attached to the dashpot but that seems to have disappeared, is this part of the needle part number, again I cant find any info even on the Burlen site.
Any info would be greatly appreciated, I do have a Haynes book on Zenith CD carbs but it only goes up till 1976, and I think the carb I have is much later 1979/80 so no info.
John
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I think you will need to check and note the actual valve lift when fully open, when you set the tappets you do it on the back of the cam, so you will not see how much wear there, the wear will be off the top of the lobe.
John
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I would like to make an insulator block, to go between the ignition coil and the engine block. I don't really want the coil mounted on the wing, although its the recommended alternative mounting position, is there not a suitable plastic or material option that I could use to put between the coil and the engine block? I haven't had a problem with the heat so far but feel I could help to reduce it perhaps? Or is this something that doesn't work anyway, I know its close to the heat source?
John
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Looking at the Moss parts list, washer, 142388, says 'plain steel washer' should these not be hard washers as they are a thrust washers? Will be looking at doing the outer bushes there soon.
Can anybody confirm please?
John
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I used my Trackrite gauge, several goes to get an average, R/H rear has a bit to much toe in, and one std shim in the outer position just gets it to a near toe in, so much happier with that.
John
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I think you need this switch, https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/switch-ignition-starter-127651.html?assoc=125898
John
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As the shims are the same thickness at the rear, does putting a shim or taking one out on the outside give a bigger or lesser difference to the tracking, than the inner one? Can't seem to get my head around this?? I'm hoping it should be the same perhaps, I'm sure somebody will help me out here?
At the moment I have too much toe on the r/h side. Hoping I don't have to make a half thickness shim perhaps.
John
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I thought that it was only the quick rack that was the problem with the aluminium and the shaft tube, is this correct?
John
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Yes its the o ring seal, that's the only one that holds the oil in the dashpot. I don't think you can seal the thread?
John
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I'm helping a friend with another well know make, with a single one of these carbs, it was loosing the dashpot oil quite quickly, so ordered the correct seal kit from Burlen, the original seal did look a bit suspect, a bit flattened, new parts looked the same but better, but now its leaking again just as before. Even with slightly thicker oil.
Is this a common item?, should I find a slightly larger seal to stop the leak, or am I doing something wrong?
John
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Usually to get bearings out like this, its possible to electric weld a couple of small lines on the inside of the shell, as it cools it shrinks and the bearing will come out easily, just be careful on these thin wall bearings not too use too many amps!, bigger thinker races are much easier.
John
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Marco, It seems to be very nearly the same both sides at not quite 1 and 3/4 turns. Will this tell you something?
John
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Further investigation, and thank you Peter, I do have the hole in the rack bar, so just need to do the job now.....
I still don't really understand why my right wheel would turn much more on a left turn, and scrub the gravel, than it does on a right turn. the wheels are held by the steering rack, and if the tracking is correct why should it do this?
The steering rack moves the wheels the same to the left as to the right, not like a system with an idler box in between.
The lock stops are there and working, the large ones without the offset hole.
Or does this mean there is something else adrift that I'm missing?
I see now the steering rods do have different amounts of thread on each side, the right side has only about 2 threads showing at the steering joint, and much more on the left, the car drives straight without touching the steering wheel.
John
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I have one of those large Sytec filters inline before my pump which is on the outside of the frame, I took away the CAV filter and pipework, but now if the tank is only 1/4 full on a large left bend all the fuel goes to the right of the tank and the pump moans, there is obviously no baffle inside, is there a way I can get round this without opening the tank please? The old CAV filter set up acted as a reservoir and the return from the pump went thru the filter before going back to the tank, so not causing any corning issues!
John
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Hi Dave
Welcome to the forum, could you add a location to your profile please, it gives us a better chance to advise where to go for info.
I think it could be a coil problem or the rotor arm, have a look at the rotor arm is a black one with a rivet, if so it needs to be changed for a Distributor Doctor red one, could you add which electronic ignition you have,
John
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Thank you Peter, if I take out the large plug that holds the filler plug, and the bush and spring, I didnt think the sliding bush had a big enough hole to let that tool thru, so perhaps I don't have the dimple in the shaft to locate into, I should be able to see the hole in the rack bar if there is one?
Just looking now at the sliding bush 12046 in parts it does seem to have a hole to suit the tool, so will see now if I have the dimple in the rack shaft.
John
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I want to reset the front wheel alignment on my 5, The steering arm inner rods have different lengths of threads showing at the track rod ends. There is a very useful item on the old classic mini, where you can insert a pin in the steering rack to get the steering centralised, so my question is there such a thing on the TR's steering rack? There are so many splined connections on the steering gear shaft, that will come into effect once the rack is in the central position.
So is it purely a matter of setting the steering joints an equal amount on either side, and setting the tracking to parallel or slightly toed in, and then setting all the other splines to get the steering wheel and indicator notch into the right place?
Is there is a simple may to determine the rack central position mechanically?
John
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There are few things I would do here,
Add some new cross shaft bushes, to take out the wear on the cross shaft, there are some that are much longer, and so run on an unused part of the shaft, or use 4 of the std bushes.
The pins in the fork don't look too good replace those,
I would drill a hole in the nose at the gearbox end, underneath, to let any oil that may come from the gearbox seal, come out there, rather than going to the end of the nose and coming out on the fingers and clutch plate.
Make sure the flywheel spigot bush is a good fit on the input shaft, and not worn out, and make sure you use the dowel bolts in the right places when reattaching the gearbox.
The slave cylinder should be mounted on the rear of the slave plate, and plate attached to the front of the engine plate.
If you do take off the nose, rotate the circlip on the bearing so that the open part is allowing oil to the drain hole on the left side, when looking at the gearbox.
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I think you need to check the air flow for 5 6 first of all, compared to the the other 4 inlets, it just maybe the throttle butterfly is not opening, or the bush on the throttle shaft id missing, which doesn't allow the butterflies on 5 and 6 to open properly.
John
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For best bleeding try and tie the slave cylinder piston back into the slave, this helps to get as much air out as possible.
John
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Out of pure interest, are the front overriders on a TR5 in the right place, shouldn't they be a bit further out where the other chrome bolt is??
John
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I have a 205 Rallye with twin weber dcom 40's, but these carbs do have an accelerator pump on both, but have suffered the stumble for ages and ages, but have now found that the idle jets that were advised in the original manual are far too small, ( perhaps the fuel is different now) and have fitted some much larger idle jets, and have reset the butterflies with an air flow meter, and it has at last transformed this pocket rocket, 105 hp standard on 1295 cc !! Its just a matter of keeping it on the road!
I thought that there was a jet listing for these engines, can you tell us which ones you have in at the moment?
John
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If its a CP engine on PI the vacuum will only be getting about 12 inches of vacuum, with the engine at idle. Shouldn't you have to rev the the engine up and close the throttles to add more vacuum into the servo, of course if the non return valve is working correctly, the servo should hold it? Which I think in theory should give the servo more power?? I stand to be corrected pls.
John
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Triumph TR5 Pinking
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted
It would be useful to have a bit more information, before any recommendations.
Has this started recently? Is this a new purchase?
Have you done something to the engine?
What sparkplugs are you using?
I'm assuming its a PI and not carbs?
It will give us a better idea of what to suggest.
John