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Posts posted by John L
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From the picture you made on another topic, I think your O ring is too big, the distributor flange at its base should sit right down onto the locking plate, that should allow the o ring to seal.
John
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Thanks, just what was needed! ordered.
John
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Thanks, would they be the same size? Do you have a reference pls.
John
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I'm having trouble with these seals leaking on an SU H2 carburettor, on another make of car, and wondered what the TR guys on their carburettors.
I know Burlin make a new Super Dry seal kit, but has to be changed as a whole, and quite expensive for just 2 seals.
Are there any Viton o rings compatible with RTC165A which I think is only Nitrile.
John
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Chris Witor does the small ones, https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW3354V
John
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If you want to take that circlip off, its a good idea to do it in a bag, as they will fly off, and you will never find it, and its not possible to get replacements!!! There is a technic to get it off, I think I have used a pointed spike to pry it off, but was a long time ago now.
John
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I have a couple of the gauges on my TR5 that cloud up when first out in the day and then clear later, I want to take the glass out and clean, but I have been unable to find the seal that is fitted between the glass and the chrome outer ring, does anybody have a contact/supplier for these please?
John
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You might need to get a second person here to help with the diagnostic.
Get them to start the engine, and you feel which of the injector pipes is not pulsing, that should lead you to the injector or the delivery valve as the problem perhaps.
Keep us informed as what you find pls.
John
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Im sure this will be a good part but worth checking with Chris, it is E10 compatible. https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=519870V
John
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Has this expired? dont see any info on Members area, can anybody help please?
John
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Could the stays be a bit too long, does the top of the rad tilt forward a bit, may be easier to short them a bit? I thought they should be nearly vertical?
John
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I think you can get white LED's and some that are not so bright, I use these people https://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=507
You have to get a special one for the alternator bulb, and the indicator ones as they need to be + either way, or they do on the TR5.
John
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Lots of pictures in this thread that may help, https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/83009-pi-problem/
John
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Oil from the rear crank seal will not usually get onto the clutch plate, unless the seal has completely come out, its flung off the back of the flywheel. If you have oil on the plate its far more likely that its from the seal on the front of the gearbox, or from the release bearing.
John
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Mike Binley rebuilt my injectors which are now fitted with the viton seals, not sure if will sell the rings separately, but worth a try perhaps, he may give you the correct references though.
John
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I have one of these, fits the inlets well, is available from lots of different places and prices, but a good meter.
John
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I have done this on my MGB GT, and found the rubber really hard to stretch the clips into the frame. Put the clips into the rubber first, I used a broom handle with a crew in cup hook into the handle, now you have two hands on the broom handle and pull up, first putting your toes into the frame on the floor, super amount of leverage!
John
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It would be nice to know why you want to remove it, I would think you would have to use a press to get out, steady pressure you cant get with a hammer. Surely it would be easier to change the cam gear position, or move the plug leads round ...
There is a picture in the manual, I would have to dig it out, of the orintition of the dog drive to the rotor, let me know if you need it.
John
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I want to re polish the headlight plastic outsides, I have the 3m product to sand and polish them, but I want this time to put a coating sealer back on to preserve the outside, but dont seem to be able to find the product on its own, can anybody help me here please.
John
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Shouldnt that be ride and park!
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Parking spaces free??
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This may help, there should be 2 long bolts that stop the belt coming off, hope this might help,... https://www.manualslib.com/manual/519952/Hayter-12-30-143p.html?page=31#manual
John
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How many keys are on the bunch swinging about, but it may mean the switch barrel is not that good it looks like.
John
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Denis,
I may help you give it a run and then take out the plugs to see what colour they are, I'm beginning to think it could be a air leak making the mixture very lean, there are several places it could be, or perhaps the MU is just set very lean.
Places I would look at, the o rings on the injector bodies into the manifold, you could spray some brake cleaner at the inlet manifold gaskets to see it that changes the idle speed at idle, may show up a leak there, if you could isolate the servo pipe and block off the pipe at the manifold, be careful if you drive as the brakes may not be good!
The colour of the plugs will give you a better idea of what going on, posting pictures as well may help.
John
Dizzy base filling with oil/leak
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by John L
Andy, Here is a picture of mine, I'm sure your o ring is too big, I think if you measure down on the dissy, I think you will find its the o ring holding.
Added just now, Just reread your original, so the oil is coming from the drain hole in the Dissy body?
John
it up.