John L
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Posts posted by John L
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Isn't a lot to do with the new SUV's are much higher off the ground, compared to the position of the heights of our lights, I know they should have the same % of dip, or should be, but starting from a higher position.
I also notice the new Led lights on the new cars have a much wider side angle than the old H4 lenses, my house is parallel with the road but well back at least 25-30 meters, and I'm still able to see cars going past!
John
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I made my own connection as I had a Minimes gauge and connector, if you go this route have a male fitting in permanently in the T piece, just a quick job to test.
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Does anybody have the part number for the 0.625" SC, is it available in any of the Moss parts under a different model car or other catalogues please?
John
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If you get stuck, Martin is remaking a lot of PI connected stuff, Martin AKA Fred Millturn on here on the forum.
John
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I used to have this problem on Tractors, in the end we made clutch plates with holes in the rivets to stop the suction that the rivet can cause to the flywheel or the cover, Can also be caused by some oil on the linings making the plate sticky to the flywheel. Or too much grease on the splines of the clutch plate, check for the dowel bolts keeping the gearbox to engine in correct alignment.
John
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If you are looking at jumper leads to start another car, I bought a long time ago, a set of welding machine copper wires, super flexible and put some decent clamps on the ends, super long and don't loose any current, compared to some of the new Aluminium short ones you get these days!
John
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Isn't the plain portion of the VL above the thread, surely an important part of the 2 items, that must be considered, not so much the thread itself? That part supports the thread surely, would be good to get some dimensions of these 2 diameters, and see what clearance is obtained, looking at the recent phots of the VL's on here don't look that good at this part.
This will also show up if the VL is not straight, when turned on the car, as identified by Mick Richards, in a previous useful thread here.
John
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Some really useful information on this site , dismantling and assembling, may help you, https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5d0196503ad9b100013f63d7/1560385106119/J+Type+Overdrive+Part+II.pdf
John
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Arrived in France yesterday!
John
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This company was mentioned on the TR6 forum yesterday by Peter for brake a clutch plate relining https://saftek.co.uk/friction-products-for-classic-vehicles-and-race-applications/
The clutch cover if it hasn't been over slipped, and blued the clutch facing it should be good to put back, check the toggle levers for wear as well, usually the clutch parts these days seem to ok..... that will start row I expect....
I haven't used this company, I think the dodgy B&B plates have been past thru the system now, but take a good look at the parts before you fit. Ask here with photos always helps making a decision.
John
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To Mike,
There is quite a good graph description of the fuel settings in that PI instructions, there are some basic settings to do first with the wedge, and to then measure the distance between the the rollers and the end of the pushrod that comes out the centre of the rotor, I know the large screw in red does the main fuelling but also takes with it the other settings as well, so screwing that in lowers the rollers and allows the large push rod to have more movement and so allows more fuel to be injected. (higher up the ramp means less fuel injected) I know the green thread controls the mid rage fuel, light throttle and I know the blue controls the overrun fuel with high vacuum, should be very minimal fuel on overrun, but if you get a lot of popping on the overrun, screwing out that screw a little will stop it! Making it leaner ( but you do need just a little fuel at that point.
I had to make a gasket for the top hat, because I could never get the locking rings tight. The threads are sealed when the unit is setup and the locking rings tightened with a sealer.
The other part that's worth mentioning, that the 2 screws that hold the black cap on must be sealed on the inside with Arildite or epoxy to stop a vacuum leak, just make sure the screws don't push the plugs of epoxy out!
I have a Mighty vacuum hand pump, so I can make sure there is no leak at all.
I do have a wide band CO meter so I can measure just what is happening.
Hope that helps a bit?
John
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Its usually this seal on the inside of the MU, but be sure you get a vital one, https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=519870V but may be available many suppliers. Its easy enough to change, but mat be best to take the MU off.
John
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If its just a sizzling gear lever looking at the parts lists, the later TR4a's and the TR5's had a plunger in the end of the gear lever to obviously stop the sizzling, on my 5 the plunger wasn't loose in the lever and so sizzled, had quite a job to to get it out and fit new one. Maybe this part might solve the problem?
John
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Which metering unit is it, CP or CR? Have you had a look at the springs in the vacuum unit, I had to change the little spring on mine to get to run anything like.
What are the colour of the plugs after a good spirted run, you could mark the adjustment settings, on the MU and turn in all three together, (richer) like a 1/4 turn and see how it goes, you could always put it back if it didn't work. I made a little gasket to go under the black top cap. I was checking it will a Mighty Vacuum pump tool, shows up any leaks.
John
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If you collect from Moss and your invoice address is in EU there will be no VAT to pay, but you would have to collect from them, not delivered to a UK address, or they will charge VAT.
John
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John, Make sure you ask them to do a chemical hot bath, this is how mine came back! They took all the plugs out and put them in a bag, but I think they replaced the aluminium one by the oil filter. You could supply the bearings as well, from a spitfire, and give them the new cam to make sure the dimensions are correct.
Well pleased with Ivor Searle! There were lot of other 6's there, when I dropped mine off. I went over for a week while they did it.
John
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Is the sump off and the oil pump out, is it a PI engine or carbs?
John
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Steven.
When you set the tappet settings as per your manual, on valves 7 and 8, and turned the crank with the chain still attached, to give both rear valves, one closing and one just about to open, where was the #1 piston? was it at TDC or not, that's all you needed to tell us.
We are trying very hard for you to follow exact instructions and give us answers, one by one, then we can help.
Where was the # one piston? if it wasn't at TDC, was it before TDC or after TDC? either you got the cam timing wrong, or its not a standard cam.
John
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But once set with the adjustable brackets, will they ever get changed? You will need probably a 4wheel alignment cost for both versions anyway.
John
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I had mine done at Ivor Searle in Norfolk/Suffolk, but that's in UK, there should be a a good engineering engine re conditioner in Paris, I will try and find the address.
Here's the website, might be be worth a contact, http://www.rectif2000.com/
John
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Doesn't anybody live near Hebden Bridge to help?? We could fill pages and pages.....
John
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Use the club Halfords discount as well, its in the magazine. valid to the end of the year. Gives I think 10%
John
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Take the spring out first, put some of the shims in and tighten the nut to the torgue mentioned, see how much movement you have as by the book, if its too sloppy add a shim or two and try again, when happy remove the nut and put in the spring then retighten the nut and lock the tab over.
That's how I read it, perhaps other have a different way
John
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Why not get the bushes, and some shims just in case you have to reset the alignment, then you should be covered.
John
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Restore old or buy new
in General TR Technical
Posted
I find the biggest problem with the current suppliers, is you order it on their internet page, (very easy) and when it arrives you have to double check it, and more often its wrong, or badly machined, call back the supplier, "Oh just send it back and we'll send you another" (at my cost) why don't they check their one parts first, best solution is, take the old part along to the suppliers counter, and compare the new item in front of them, and go thru parts until you get a good part perhaps!
That's my feeling, but not many of us live close to a supplier, Hey Ho!
John