ianc
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Posts posted by ianc
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Looking back on my notes, I see that my TR4 had munched 5 of the 6RA relays in 30 years.
RobH, in topic "Does the overdrive have a relay" on January 13th 2016, wrote a better description of the quenching offered by a reversed diode. Can be found by searching for "e.m.f." (takes a few seconds for the search).
Ian Cornish
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Over the last 30 years, I have had at least three 6RA overdrive relays fail, much in the way yours seems to be failing. The relay clicks and, with no load (i.e. solenoid) connected, 12V appears at the relay output. But when loaded, relay failed to energise the solenoid.
Basically, relay knackered, and had to be replaced on each occasion.
To try and reduce the problem, I now have a small diode connected in reverse and in parallel with the solenoid in the hope that the back e.m.f., which occurs on de-energisation of the solenoid and which may well be the cause of relay contact failure, will be reduced. Still too early to say whether this will reduce or even eliminate relay failure.
Ian Cornish
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As an apprentice, and thereafter, I used multicore solder for plumbing and similar work. Nowadays, multicore is not so common, but there is lead solder (or what purports to be lead solder) which has no embedded flux. Would that suffice in place of lead linger, or would it be too hard.
When soldering nowadays, I use a flux paste or soldering fluid, making sure that joints are wiped clean because the flux is corrosive stuff.
Ian Cornish
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When purchased, my TR2 had adjustable steering column, which meant that the steering wheel was against my chest (I have short legs).
I very soon cut off the adjustable mechanism, and then was able to enjoy the car for 5 years until the floors rotted away.
Ian Cornish
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On my TR4, which has an alternator and negative earth, I have an isolator switch in the negative connection from battery to earth (chassis etc.), mounted on a bracket beneath the dashboard. It's the black knob sitting at 12/6 o'clock, with the navigator's wand light running beneath.
My battery has its negative to the left, so the cable runs are very short. This means that the positive cable to the starter motor is also short.
I isolate the electrics whenever I turn the engine off, which means the electric fan (if running) stops. Thermo-siphoning takes care of cooling after that.
I don't have a glove box - the Works Comps Dept dispensed with that as soon as they converted the four VC cars for rallying. There's sufficient space for Halda and speedometer side by side where the glove box would be (but isn't).
Ian Cornish
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We went to see this film last night, and I would urge you, should it be showing anywhere near you, to grab the opportunity. It's not a drama, it's a film about the pictures on display at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, with very helpful explanations and insights form staff of the Museum, and a British art critic.
All tickets to view the paintings have been sold, which means that the place will be packed all day each day - but this film allows one to view each picture clearly and in great detail.
I am not an art buff, but I found this 90 minute show to be insightful and beautiful, and Vermeer's technique for applying paint was truly amazing - no signs of brush marks or layering.
I'm glad to say that our comparatively small theatre in Thame was full to capacity for this show.
Ian Cornish
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I don't think that there can be any doubt that Stuart (Watermill Carriage Co. in Cornwall) has more experience of restoring TRs than anyone who normally contributes to the Forum, so his advice should be taken seriously.
Fixing this problem is NOT a minor job, (and it needs to be fixed) and it raises questions as to what else might not be right with the car.
Ian Cornish
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Helpful email response from Lisa, young lady at Live Promotions, who was able to book for me - and I have received a ticket.
Ian Cornish
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My TR4 has 10" blades, and the righthand end of the right blade sits proud of the bottom of the screen in the Park position.
I think that any longer blade would flap about rather a lot in windy conditions.
Looking at Moss and Revington sites, it would seem that TR4/4A/5 have 10" blades, but TR6 may have 11" blades.
Ian Cornish
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I tried to book, went right through the form-filling, including entry of my Credit Card details, only to be advised that my Post Code was invalid (it wasn't). System didn't permit me to go back, so I abandoned the attempt.
Same occurred on 2nd attempt.
Maddy observed my 3rd attempt - still the same result.
I have sent the organisers an email and have also advised Mick Forey.
Ian Cornish
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No point in going to Wales as you will require a person with a red flag to cycle in front so that none of you exceed 20 mph.
Ian Cornish
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Maddy bought the mills, so even had she kept the receipt, chances of finding it are infinitesimally small!
Thanks, Waldi - that's an excellent recommendation for Peugeot and I have passed the information on Peugeot mills to Maddy, as the shape has to be approved by her!
Ian Cornish
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ricky30: Stuart has a solid axle TR4A, so should be able to comment and advise on your problem of rear axle twist/steer.
Ian Cornish
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TR4 is as tough as old boots, whereas, as Bob has intimated, there's a lot more to go wrong with IRS.
I started learning about problems with the IRS TRs when I was the Tech Editor in the 1970s . First, it was collapse of front suspensions, followed by swinging arms coming adrift at the rear. Then diffs started to come adrift, and later the drive shafts and hubs started to fail. Such failures are rather scary and can result in a crash.
There have been fixes devised for all these matters - but at what cost? Meanwhile, the cart axle TR4 just continues to motor on oblivious to all these modern "improvements".
Personally, I would never buy an IRS TR.
Ian Cornish
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In my In Box this morning: advert for White Italia for sale at Automobile Store for $174,497 (164,900 Euros).
Ian Cornish
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I knew that I had seen another - this is it, Ian.
Please forward to the Tech Ed.
ianC
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We had a pair of wooden pepper & salt mills which lasted over 30 years before the teeth wore out.
Maddy then purchased a pair of Pro-Cook mills which have transparent plastic outers, with steel inside. They look attractive, but after only some 3 years, neither grinds any more.
Any recommendation for mills which have decent, long-lasting, inner mechanisms ?
Ian Cornish
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I copied Mike Jennings' email to Mike Ellis, Bill Piggott and Ian Gibson - let's see if one of them (and others who might read this) manage to unearth.
Ian Cornish
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The Tech Ed (Mike) has asked whether anyone has photos like this of early TRs at petrol pumps of the period.
If so, please send to him (address in TR Action),
Ian Cornish
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In the 1950s and early 1960s, it was normal for the garage attendant to fill the car with the amount the customer desired - even as little as a couple of gallons.
Self-service garages came later.
Ian Cornish
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In 1997, I had problems with small particles blocking the gauze filter of my pump.
I used Slosh Tank Sealant (see my article in TR Action 144 (Jan/Feb 1998, also in section K3 of the Technicalities CD) and, once the residual particles in the petrol pipe had been flushed through, have had no problems - 26 years is a pretty good test!
Ian Cornish
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We have been members of the NT for decades, and we I feel sure that there will be many NT members amongst Forumites, and you will be aware that the AGM is approaching.
Rather than accept the "Quick Vote" option, which means that the Board of Trustees will fill the vacancies with those who "fit the profile", I would urge that you have a look at the "Restore Trust" site and make decisions of your own about the 5 candidates and also about the Resolutions.
In particular, there is a Members' Resolution for removal of the Quick Vote, and I would encourage you to support this - if passed, perhaps the NT then could return to being a more democratic and representative organisation, which it was when we joined all those years ago.
Ian Cornish
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I use that hanger, but perhaps because I have a 4-branch exhaust system, first I have to put a couple of washers and nut onto the bolt for the exhaust pipe before connecting to the exhaust clamp - this holds the exhaust pipe to the left so that it doesn't bang against the chassis forward of this clamp.
Ian Cornish
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If you have a narrow belt conversion, which is ideal for driving an alternator, the alternator will be spinning faster than the engine, and that should be taken into consideration when looking at the useful plots which Rob has posted.
I have a modest 35A output alternator, but at about 1100 engine revs, it copes with electronic ignition, headlamps, Revotec fan and heater fan.
All my lamps are still incandescent as I have a stock of bulbs and will convert to LEDs when my supplies are exhausted.
Even with my two spotlamps added to the list, the alternator copes with everything at 1400 engine revs.
And this is why I've not felt it necessary to opt for a more powerful alternator.
I wonder why Stuart's Volvo has a 160A alternator - that's 1920 Watts. Is it supplying an electric kettle or cooker?
Ah, just had an afterthought, because they cater for Swedes, Volvos can cook the backsides of the passengers. Query: by having their backsides cooked, do Swedes suffer from piles?
Ian Cornish
A-type overdrive problem when hot
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
The current through the dash-mounted overdrive switch is very small, but the switch can play up - after all, it's probably over 60 years old and (like the owners) they do wear out !
Moss sell a replacement switch (112474), but it is £70. I think the actual switch inside the case is as the original, so could be fitted in the old case to preserve originality!
Ian Cornish