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Everything posted by ianc

  1. How many of us have a limit on our credit card which would permit purchase at £42,500? Ian Cornish
  2. A number of Forumites have spoken well of electronic versions, which are almost indistinguishable from the original Lucas versions and seem to be well-engineered. Ian Cornish
  3. Nigel - my Newtronic/Piranha electronic ignition, fitted in 1993, uses a rotor arm. Don't most (all?) electronic ignition systems, unless they completely replace the distributor, require a rotor arm? Ian Cornish
  4. Why not convert to a modern system with remote header tank? See my article in TR Action 112, or section B18 in the Technicalities CD. I think that exceeding a setting of 7 psi is not a good idea as it over-stresses the hoses. With a remote header tank, a 7 psi cap on the remote tank is quite sufficient, and 4 psi would not be a problem. Ian Cornish
  5. Yes, Pete, the PTFE will get scraped away on assembly. Stuart recommends use of Copperslip ( a.k.a. Copaslip) in the joint - stuff I have been using for years. Makes it easier to assemble and, later, to dismantle. Ian Cornish
  6. ianc


    DavidBee - yes, all the advice on alternators with a 4-branch exhaust says that an alternator heat shield could save you the cost of another alternator. Even Mr Revington, despite having re-built 4VC for me (which had a heat shield, fitted in 1962, for the dynamo - still there for the alternator) made the mistake of not fitting a shield when he changed 6VC to alternator - learned the lesson (and now sells shields, too)! Heat shield for carburettors: 4VC has the SAH-style 4 branch as fitted in 1962 - not the original as it disintegrated and was beyond repair, so then I fitted the Moss version which is built to the same pattern. Heat shield is not easy to install and, although Tony Sheach gave me one, I haven't fitted it. If the engine is hot and I stop, I release the bonnet catch to let out the hot air and let convection do its job. My Kenlowe stops as soon as I turn off the ignition. Ian Cornish
  7. I removed the lump from 4VC's gearbox when the box chewed its innards back in 1970 and had to come out. I had no idea what the lump was for, so binned it. Have never missed it! Ian Cornish
  8. ianc


    Stef - you appear to have an adjustable stabiliser bar, with red sleeve, running to the left from the front of the engine. Is this similar to the device which I described in TR Action 130 many years ago (May 1996, also in Technicalities CD G15-G19)? Mine links to the cross tube mounting. And Stuart has a remote header tank for the coolant, an improvement which I described in TR Action 112 (February 1994, Technicalities CD B18). Guarantees that the radiator is always completely full of coolant. I just wanted to clarify that a heat shield for the alternator, clearly seen in Stef's shot, is NOT the same as a heat shield for the carburettors. Ian Cornish
  9. ianc


    100mm diameter convex mirror arrived today and, when I dismantled the assembly, I realised that the actual mirror inside the housing needs to be 92mm, so have ordered this size and latest email from vendor says it's on its way. Ian Cornish
  10. See your photo - the springs sit above the throttle mechanism (running horizontally across), so are close to the fulcrum, as can be seen in the WSM. The holes should be there, but you might have to push the throttle to the floor in order to spot them. By the look of it, getting the end of the spring into the pedal could be challenging! Ian Cornish
  11. Just had a look inside my RHD TR4. Yes, that eye is for the spring, and there should be another on the left for the clutch. There's a return spring for each pedal. Spring hooks into hole in the pedal, not far down from the fulcrum. Can be seen in Workshop Manual Plate W. Springs are both W13, Part number 57950. Ian Cornish
  12. ianc


    Some careful work with a file will permit the lefthand mirror in the bullet housing to turn further, so that it works for the driver. That's what I did. Thanks to Andrew, I have ordered a 100mm convex mirror from phoenixwingmirrors - will report once it has arrived and I have fitted it. Ian Cornish
  13. ianc


    My mirrors are 10 cm diameter, flat on right, convex on left (RHD car). When, about 25 years ago, I changed the mirror on the left, I took the easy way and bought another complete assembly, then swapped the glass part. Beware getting a convex mirror that has too great a curve as the images seen by the driver (sitting on right) will shrink so much that it makes it very difficult to judge the actual position of vehicles on the inside left. Ian Cornish
  14. ianc


    Cannot you get mirrors from the same manufacturer, but not flat? if so, just keep the housing and change the mirror, which is what I have done. Ian Cornish
  15. I endorse Stuart's use of Copperslip (also spelt Copaslip) - greatly eases assembly and disassembly. Ian Cornish
  16. According to Bill Piggott in his "Original Triumph TR2/3/3A", it was 90 to 230, with 185 to indicate normal running temperature. Centigrade instrument fitted to European export cars. Ian Cornish
  17. I have a portable mains-powered 38-watt LED lamp on a stand for garage etc - inexpensive to purchase & run, minimal heat and very bright. I have installed a number of 16-watt tubular LEDs in the lofts - 1.2m in length (fit conveniently across two rafters), weigh very little and provide excellent illumination. Available in shorter & longer versions. And have been installing LED lights outside the house - the 30-watt floodlamps are amazingly bright and illuminate the terrace and the car parking area as well as a 500-watt incandescent, but at a much reduced cost & longer life. Ian Cornish
  18. Well done, Peter. What a pity someone messed it up when copying your info. Interesting info on the -ium versus -um spelling of elements. Ian Cornish
  19. Pity about the mis-spelling of Supersession - occurs all too often. Comes from the Latin verb sedere, not cedere. Ian Cornish (a.k.a. Pedant)
  20. As I have been doing on TRs for 60 years, use Castrol LM grease on all grease nipples, including trunnions. Ian Cornish
  21. ianc

    TR4A Overdrive

    In Mike's photo of the dash of his LNK, there is a spring-loaded headlamp flasher switch to top left of the speedo. A similar switch can be mounted top right of the tacho in order to operate the overdrive logic box - that way, no need to remove a hand from the steering wheel. On 4VC, I have mounted the spring-loaded overdrive switch on the right of the steering column, where the standard TR4 has its long wand. Ian Cornish
  22. I've posted this info more than once on the Forum, but here it is again: Today (25/05/09), I made some measurements on a brand new, spare, overdrive solenoid which I bought from Moss some time ago. I think it is fair to assume that it was built to the same specification as the original Lucas item. Pull-in (Pull-in and Hold-in coils in parallel) 0.8 ohms, drawing about 15-17 amps. Hold-in (pull-in circuit disconnected by plunger operating the switch within the top of the solenoid) 12.5 ohms, drawing about 1 amp. For the technically-minded, this means that the Pull-in coil has a resistance of about 0.85 ohms, and takes about 14-16 amps. The current drawn will depend upon the state of charge of the battery, which is usually between 12-13.4 volts. Ha - I see that I posted it here on 30th May, but it shows that 0.5 ohms for the pull-in coil points to an internal fault. Ian Cornish
  23. ianc

    TR4A Overdrive

    You could consider a Logic Overdrive set-up, such as that from Revington (possibly others). Much nicer than the long wand on the steering column. Overall length is the same as a non-overdrive unit, so just slots into place (ha, ha - just read first the helpful Forum posts about removal/replacement of gearbox!). I'll leave space here for the arguments about suitable lubricant! Never painted a gearbox - just clean it to expose bare metal. Ian Cornish
  24. Even if I had not removed and thrown away the servo which was on 4VC when I acquired it in 1969, all this would convince me that such a device just complicates matters and is unnecessary. I was not aware that the solid axle TR4A, such as Stuart's, is plumbed differently for the rear brakes - one lives and learns! Ian Cornish
  25. I have been using Castrol LM grease on trunnions and every other grease point on TRs for 60 years. Unlike oil, grease won't seep out. The important thing is to grease regularly in order to expel the old and to ensure that the moving parts are lubricated. Ian Cornish
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