ianc
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Posts posted by ianc
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Rather than just coat underside of wings with stone-chip, I recommend that you fit under-arm - sorry, wing - protection.
You TR will last decades longer should you do so.
You can slap the stone-chip onto those.
Ian Cornish
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The overdrive relay can click, but fail to supply power to the solenoid.
In 30 years, I have had to replace my overdrive relay on four occasions, the most recent being just a fortnight ago. Each time, it has been because the contact inside the relay (a Lucas 6RA type) although moving was no longer making contact - hence no power to the solenoid.
When at autojumbles, I keep an eye open for old (original) Lucas 6RA relays - they seem to last rather longer.
Ian Cornish
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TR Rob: that cover looks neat. Do you think this cover would this fit a TR4 (4VC) with a pair of 7" spotlamps at the front (no bumper) and reversing lamp (5" spotlamp) on the back of the bootlid, but no bumper.
TR4 is slightly wider, too.
Thanks,
Ian Cornish
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If it is the anti-rattle device, which seems very likely from the description, the transmission tunnel can stay in place as only the rubber gaiter and the gear lever need be removed.
Be careful not to lose the anti-rattle device - it is very small ( Moss has repalcements) and can drop out
To ensure it doesn't fall out of its little hole, one needs to hold it into its hole when installing the lever.
Ian Cornish
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To avoid the problem of most or all lights being extinguished in the event of a short-circuit, the Works' TR4s have a fuse for each of the filaments in the headlamps (i.e. 4 fuses) and separate fuse for each of left, right and centre spotlamps and for reversing lamp (single filaments, of course). Centre was fitted on top of the bonnet for some rallies, and Mike North has copied this on his TR4 (LNK).
Ian Cornish
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I'm afraid that TRs in standard form have insufficient fuses - just a couple in the TR2/3/4.
As you are going to have to carry out significant re-wiring, I suggest you get Autosparks to incorporate more fuses.
Back in 1962, the Works' Competition Department employed a Lucas technician to wire the four TR4s. and each car has 4 fuseboxes with 4 fuses in each.
Mine has a few more as I have modified the electrics over the 54 years I have owned the car.
Ian Cornish
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I wouldn't say "lucky". Why ?
Because Pete Buckles above all believed in "Preserving the Marque" (once the mantra for the TR Register - remember) and he pursued this policy with dogged determination, and was followed by others of similar ilk.
We have been exceedingly fortunate to have benefitted enormously from Pete's farsightedness, which has meant that parts for TRs are, on the whole, readily available and not expensive - anyone who owns a modern will have knowledge of difficulties with parts and the cost thereof.
Has anyone explored the record of the group acquiring Moss and Rimmers, to see how the other companies under its control have performed, and, in particular, how the customers using the acquired companies have fared ?
ian Cornish
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I have TR6 U'Js at each end.
Revington can sell you a column with a U/J welded to each end, which means just 2 (instead of 4) bolts.
Ian Cornish
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I have been using Evans Waterless for some years in my modified cooling system, which has a sealed expansion tank (see TR Action112 (Feb '94) or Technicalities B18).
It is expensive, so you don't want to lose any of it,
When working on the cooling system, I drain it into a container and pour it back afterwards.
The coolant has been in there since 2017, always comes out clean as a whistle and, with a sealed system, I never need change it nor to top up.
Ian Cornish
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Many years ago, Maddy and I had a fascinating tour of the Coldridge Collection from Michael Thorne, the man who had created the Collectiom.
In Chapter 14 of Michael's "Ferguson TE20 in Detail", there's a description of the special Fergies built for the expedition to the South Pole.
We don't believe we saw one of those specials in the Collection, which it seems is now closed - presumably whilst its future is decided.
Michael died last year - a true enthusiast, much missed by the Fergie fraternity.
It was Standard (not Standard Triumph) which set up production of the little grey Fergie - a revolutionary tractor at the time. The appliance of science rather than brawn - those small machines could achieve what the larger and heavier tractors frequently could not!
Graham Robson, in Chapter 8 of his "The Book of the Standard Motor Company", describes the story of the Ferguson/Standard relationship.
Ian Cornish
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I asked Maddy to take shots of the buckles of the navigator's and driver's side by side, showing what an excellent repair was made by Roger.
Ian Cornish
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Ahem - as it is torque, it is 14 lb.ft.
The unit ft.lb is for work done, as in calculating horsepower, which I seem to recall us 550 ft.lb per second.
Ian Cornish (will now crawl back inside my shell)
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To conclude this narrative, I can report that the fellow on the Volvo forum (discovered through Andy Canning) had no old belts with the buckle which I required, but the very resourceful and clever Roger Hogarth took my belt, removed the rivets and found - as we expected - that the steel spring had fractured.
Roger obtained some spring steel, cleaned off the flaking plating from the outside covers and had Bright Zinc coating applied (much cheaper than other plating).
As making tiny rivets didn't work, Roger used 3 chrome countersunk BA screws (I think he said 3BA), used nuts as spacers inside the buckle, then peened the ends of the screws to seal the buckle.
The result is a buckle that looks as good as new (better than the other one!) and means that the car can be driven once I complete the work on reinstating the cabin following the gearbox transplant (that's another story!).
I am very grateful to Roger for his efforts - how marvellous to have such a good and clever friend.
Ian Cornish
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Dismantle the tap and, using fine grinding paste, lap the swivelling part into the outer casting - I must thank Carl at Revington for demonstrating this simple fix to me many moons ago.
Ian Cornish
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Dave - have a look at Revington's site for fuse box(es) and relays.
ian Cornish
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If you watched the programme last night about Sewers, and have read recent reports in the papers, you will realise that these people were taking quite a risk.
In the 1960s, I swam across the Thames at Henley with my Uncle, but I wouldn't dare go into the river water nowadays - and I see that the Oxford Boat Race queue, even if they win, won't throw their cox into the Thames this year.
Ian Cornish
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As Stuart states, a pair of HS6s do a very good job and are very easily set up on a rolling road by a tuner with a good supply of needles.
And most of us driving road cars don't get to 5000 very often. When given a Hill entry, I get to 5500 on Kop Hill, but the rest of the time I use 3000 to 4500 across country.
Ian Cornish
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I recall in the early 1960s the heater hose blowing on the cabin side of my TR2, directly above my feet - not to be recommended!
Peter's advice - as ever - extremely helpful.
Ian Cornish
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I have a rubber bung in the left side of my (fibreglass) gearbox cover, and it makes that job fairly easy - wise words from Mike/Brenda about filling, using and then topping up. I put in 1.7 litres (I have overdrive) at first, but have 2 litres available for the job.
As I have a TR4, I have no idea how to fiil the diff on a 4A. I fill my diff by removing the left rear wheel and using a somewhat longer tube on the squidgy oil container.
Ian Cornish
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My current battery is Halford's HB096, which I purchased in 2015. Still holds its charge very well even if unused for a month, and spins the (geared) starter motor rapidly.
It is cheaper than the HB068, with greater CCA and Ah. I'm on negative earth and have the terminals at the rear, next to the bulkhead, but within a plastic battery box.
Halford's will have an equivalent with terminals the other way about, but the HB096 would suit positive earth with terminals towards the front.
Ian Cornish
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The only photo I can find amongst the 300 or so that I have here, shows Kastner tuning one of the three cars (3/5/6VC) sent to America in 1964 for the Shell 400 Rally in Canada, but, according to Tony (and I think he is correct) the cars had new LHD bodywork with the alloy external panels added. The photo (attached) does not show the inner wing indented to increase clearance, but the carburettors don't extend as far.
Tony's photo is of 5VC which is getting nearer completion by the month - but he is very painsataking in this reconstruction of the fourth of the four original Works' TR4s (is there any other Works' team which can boast 100% of the original cars arestill in existence?). One can tell that it is 5VC because it has the original airhorns, purchased in Italy. fitted front left (as has 4VC, of course) and in the photo.
As I understand it, the Racetorations alloy rocker cover has the filler at one end and the filler and the two securing nuts don't appear to be sealed. I think this means it might not suit a sidescreen car (clearance beneath bonnet) and might exude fumes. - website doesn't state. Perhaps someone could inform us ?
Ian Cornish
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I have Tony;s cover on 4VC now. The filler and fixing nuts have O-ring seals, so the cover is leak-free - one needs to use one of the outlets to connect to a catch tank or dump to the ground.
The cover is symmetrical and top is lower then the standard offering, so will suit any 4-pot TR.
Ian Cornish
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When Neil rebuilt 4VC for me in the early 1990s, I decided to change to diaphragm clutch, but I have never noticed that this made any difference to the effort reguired.
In common with many who have a diaphragm clutch, I have that external spring in place - why ? because Neil fitted it.
That spring really doesn't affect the load for one's left leg and it holds the thrust mechanism back so that it is not going to be dragged by the spinning of the clutch .
However, it is the owner's choice.
Ian Cornish
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Words of wisdom from Moss's catalogue:
"There ar 3 holes in the clutch cross shaft lever end. All 4 cylinder TRs should be connected from the slave cylinder to the CENTRE hole. The othe two holes are for use on different Trtiumph models".
The photo in the TR4 Workshop Manual correctly shows the connection to the centre hole.
The odd thing is that the lever actually looks to be slightly misaligned when the centre hole is used, but I have been using the centre hole for over 60 years, and Peter Wigglesworth and Pete Cox, who wrote the useful advice in the Moss manual, know their stuff.
The Workshop Supplements for the TR5 and for the TR6 do not have photos of this connection, but I would assume that the same advice pertains sine the gearbox casing is basically the same.
Ian Cornish
Tr6 rough running (fuel?)
in General TR Technical
Posted
Have just read this clip from the Daily Express:
Last year, Adrian Flux warned ethanol is "corrosive" with E10 fuel offering a higher risk of damaging metal, plastic and rubber in the fuel system.
This can lead to many problems such as issues with the carburettor and may even lead to broken fuel lines.
The motoring group also stressed the extra water consumption found in E10 fuel could also backfire for those who store their classic cars.
They added: "Water absorption is a problem if your classic car sits idle for long periods of time, as many classics do. The longer you leave it, the more moisture will build up and this can cause serious issues for driving and safety."
Always try to use E5 from Esso or Shell, as the Esso version may actually be E-Zero, if you are in the right part of the UK.
Also helps if tank kept pretty full rather than near empty in periods of little use - especially in cold, damp weather.
Ian Cornish