RogerH
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Posts posted by RogerH
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There is so much we do not understand in every walk of life.
Only the flat earthists can easily deny the unexplained because they can only see/touch their reality.
However jumping out of ones 'reality' is a very brave step.
I don't bother with UFO's etc as they don't bother me but 'odd' reality needs an eye keeping on it.
Roger
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............Wot, no flip flops !!!!!
Roger
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Dunlop were definitely being produced in India in the 1990's
Roger
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Hi Emrys,
It sounds as if the auto park plunger inside the motor is not riding up the cam to switch off.
On the underside of the motor there should be a switch attached to the body
Inside this switch is a plunger - this can wear and the motor will not stop.
Or the cam is missing inside the motor.
Take it all of and delve inside.
Roger
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Hi Tigger,
Dunlop wire wheels have been made in India for a very long time.
It just keeps the production costs down along with the level of quality.
Roger
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Our TR's have been served very well by C&B, Moss whatever over many years.
Even new cars have quality issues.
We have been very lucky.
Roger
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If a magician can do that imagine what God could do
Roger
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Hot on the heals of the Rimmer/Moss sell out I discovered this morning that the true epitome of Britishness , 3- in - 1 oil , is owned by WD40.
What next Cadbury making decent chocolate.!!!
Roger
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The quality 'silver solder' can still be found in odd parts of the world.
Many UK model engineers bought huge stocks before it was banned.
Roger
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Hi Dave,
the little pip (certainly on the TR4-6) is a 'top hat' section that fits under a spring steel clip.
Any old TR4-6) item will have the part.
I could send you the part if you get stuck
Roger
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No good will come of this.
Both companies are ripe for asset stripping.
Thankfully we still have TRShop, TRGB, Revington and other smaller loyal suppliers.
It didn't take long, after Pete's death, for the walls to be torn down.
Roger
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Hi Richard,
Have you got a local 'FreeCycle' scheme. This is where you can post on a 'FreeCycle' forum and give away your rubbish or quality items or ask for similar.
It works well here in West London.
have a look here https://uk.freecycle.org/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpOC27p-8hQMVsJNQBh1CRQOsEAAYASAAEgLhYvD_BwE
I suspect everybody has their quota of TRAction.
I gave away a couple of dozen 3 or 4 years ago to a mother & Toddler group - they used the shiny paper to create montages.
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Hi Rob
cutting a hole in the tunnel is the easiest solution. The bung in the floor is a good size to go for.
Roger
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Hi Bobbie
the search facility is rather crude. The less key words the better.
Most searchers go via Google quoiting 'TR Register' then what you are after
Good Luck
Roger
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17 minutes ago, stuart said:
Well done Roger, thats much better than Revingtons idea of bunging a lump of rubber in the switch to stop it latching (I believe theyve dropped that idea now as too many failures.)
Do you know the origin of the first switch you modified?
Stuart.
Hi Stuart,
I do not know where I sourced it (possibly after an appeal on here for unwanted spares)
I do know where it went. (somebody on here)
Roger
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Hi Nigel,
I have also found this stiffness with various blades and always blamed the harder/stiff rubber - usually in the Winter time.
Two possible fixes. When parking Overnight etc turn the ignition OFF when the blades are in the centre of the screen. This should stop them on a flat area.
Or use Silicone rubber blades.
Roger
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Can the TR6 joint be used #71 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/steering-suspension/steering/steering-tr5-6-1967-76.html
Why do you want to change?
Roger
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Plain water has the best heat capturing properties. Adding any coolant reduces this ability.
100% coolant has the least ability.
It will not boil over but will get quite hot.
From a practical point of view you will need to carry a gallon or so in the boot just in case you need a top up en route.
Roger
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Plain water has the best heat capturing properties. Adding any coolant reduces this ability.
100% coolant has the least ability.
It will not boil over but will get quite hot.
From a practical point of view you will need to carry a gallon or so in the boot just in case you need a top up en route.
Roger
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6 minutes ago, dpb said:
With reference to the first post..
'A man of wealth and taste.'
Dave
He deserves a banquet
Roger
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They should last longer than that.
Roger
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Hi Andy,
TEX are good wipers. Why not send TEX an E-mail explaining the situation.
Roger
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Hi Folks,
the OD Logic box that I make requires a 0ve pulse to operate.
Any momentary ON switch will work - I use a press button switch - but I thought it would be nice to use the original TR4/4A /5/6 OD switch.
Firstly the switch contacts need removing.
Remove the roll pin that holds that switch arm in the body and then push the arm out of the body.
Remove the cable and contact board (it just pulls off).
Remove the Ball, spring & contact from the plastic body.
Insert an Aluminium rod into the hole in the plastic body where the ball sat
Drill and tap (M3) at the back end of the plastic body - this becomes the "more live" side of the switch.
Drill and tap an M3 hole in the Ali body for the earth side of the switch.
Drill a 3/32" hole into the top of the Aluminium/plastic body for a short length of 3/32" diameter copper wire. Insert the wire into the hole and then anchor it down with a M3 screw.
The wires to the circuit board are attached to the switch with M3 ring terminals.
There is a spring to ensure it all returns to off when released.
The big plus is that it looks correct. ans is fairly easy to sort out.
Today I modified a new looking switch and the build quality was spot on. Yesterday I modified two made by Bastuk and the quality was rubbish - usable but poorly built.
WARNING
These switches can only be used for switching the earth as the body is at the same potential as the contact.
Roger
Grease in Rear Brake Drum
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi Paul,
remove the shoes and clean it down as best you can.
Refit the wheel and rotate the wheel whilst keeping your hand on the tyre.
Can you hear or feel a noise from the bearing - if yes, you will need a new hub.
Then hold the tyre at the 12 & 6-o-clock position and give it a good waggle. Did you feel any play (there should be absolutely none)
If you could feel play then you need a new hub.
Moss sell their own new build hubs that work well.
Bastuk make new hubs that probably work well. Both these are to the original design.
Others have converted to CV joints.
Roger