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Posts posted by Ian Vincent
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10 hours ago, Grahamgl said:
Gentlemen,
I bought a 4” angle grinder to use with fibre pads to remove the paint from the panels of my TR4. I used it yesterday with a cutting disc to cut some metal angle to brace the door gaps. I was surprised at the speed of rotation and feel it would be to fast for paint removal hence my question.
Is there a simple device that I could buy to reduce the speed of my angle grinder( mains powered Makita)?
Thanks
Graham
I have a 4.5" Clarke angle grinder that I've had for years and used extensively when I was rebuilding my car. I used fibre pads from Frost and as long as I didn't catch them on a sharp edge, (in which case they were shredded in seconds) they were fine running at the full speed of the angle grinder and they removed paint a treat and left a perfect surface for applying primer.
Rgds Ian
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12 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:
Does anyone know of a source for the special 5 sided “hex” key required to remove the radio security screws on a 1998 E36 BMW Z3?
Dave McD
How big is the screw? Apple phones use a very small five sided screw in the base so any iphone phone repair kit contains the necessary tool to fit it.
Rgds Ian
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6 hours ago, tr2_applegreen said:
this is awesome! I might contact you for one, if i manage the get the sensor out.
Stupid question: I guess it does not make a difference, that with the adapter the sensor sits 1,5cm less deep in the housing?
I have one, and my temperature gauge works fine.
Rgds Ian
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25 minutes ago, tr2_applegreen said:
So, "pulling" is not an option?
What is the Revington adapter for?
https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr8155/name/adaptor-male-female-brass
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Drain down the water level and remove the thermostat housing so that you can apply some pressure on the other side. Plus, when you have removed it, fit one of the Revington adapters.
Rgds Ian
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What make is the ramp please?
Rgds Ian
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Well there's a surprise, the drawer is working again - probably briefly.
The consensus from the various posts on the forum I found was to give the two relays on the PCB that controls everything a whack with a screwdriver handle and put it all back together. So that is what I did. Electronic engineering at its best!
Rgds Ian
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HI Roger,
Thanks for the reply; knowing how many electrical experts we have on here, the Forum was my first port of call but I have since been on the web and found that I am most definately not alone. There is a whole web page devoted to Neff warming drawer failures and it includes a pretty detialed checking procedure so the you can work out whether it is the drawer heating tray that has failed or the various components upstream. So that's my morning sorted.
For those of you who are interested in such things, here is a link to the page. Neff Warming Drawer failures
All of which is pretty damning for what is supposed to be a quality manufacturer as FWIW, I have had to repair the oven three times to date along with calling out a Neff engineer to replace the oven fan when everything was brand new. Oh and for which he tried to charge me a call out fee.
Rgds Ian
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Thks to all, for a variety of reasons the celebrations were delayed until today and I’ve just had a brilliant night out with friends at our local Italian restaurant.
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Our house was a new build in 2017 and came with a full kitchen of Neff appliances. Shortly after the warranty ran out, the warming drawer failed and for a variety of reasons I have only just got around to looking at it.
The unit has a rotary dial switch which goes from 0 to 5. When it is at 0 the unit is switched off and there is no light showing but the moment you start to move the switch around the dial a red light comes on and the central tray starts to warm up (or used to). Now all that happens on whatever setting the switch is at, the tray only gets vaguely luke warm - if it is even that hot. I can put my hand on it for as long as I want without any fear of being burnt. That certainly wasn't the case when it was new.
I have removed the unit from its cabinet and also stripped the hot plate from the unit and I can find no evidence of any failed connection but before I go any further, some advice from some of the knowledgable types on here would be good. I have put a meter across the output wires (one is brown the other is orange) from the switch to the drawer unit and am unable to measure any sensible voltage. I have full mains going into the switch but nothing coming out - whatever the setting. Neither can I detect any voltage between earth and the brown or orange wires.
Does anyone on here know what I should be looking for - for example will the heating element be DC fed?
All help gratefully received and if you need more info, please let me know.
Rgds Ian
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4 hours ago, SuzanneH said:
Happy Birthday Ian enjoy your day you’ve got some smashing weather for it.
Not where I live, it's raining.
But I'll still have a nice day thanks.
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3 hours ago, Kev bryant said:
Infra red heater is the way to go. It's a people heater rather rather than a room heater. Given it's a bathroom you are not going to linger in, I assume there is no desire to heat the whole room, however small. An infra red heater can be switched on and off as you enter / leave the room.
+1, any sort of radiant heat heater is the answer. It's why churches are frequently heated with radiant heaters pointing down from the roof.
Rgds Ian
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Happy birthday to a youngster.
Rgds Ian
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I have them set at halfway and they seem to work ok.
Rgds Ian
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Germany has a lot of rules and it is part of their culture to follow them. No, in general you aren’t allowed to wash your car at home your have to use a designated car wash area with traps and filters on the drains to prevent toxic effluent going into them.
Rgds Ian
PS my wife is half German and we go there fairly often to visit relatives and just enjoy their clean and well ordered environment. Returning to the litter strewn UK is always a culture shock.
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4 hours ago, Shaun70 said:
Hi. I have just bought my first TR6. It is also my first vintage car so I was wondering, how do you guys wash your cars? Here in Germany it isn't allowed to wash them in your drive with soap etc. so I would have to go to a car wash center but they don't allow customers to take their own buckets and they all only have the high pressure hose things which I don' really fancy using on my TR6.
CheersIt depends what sort of paint it is. If it's two pack, it will be OK with the high pressure hose. In any event you just have to step back a bit to reduce the pressure at the vehicle.
Rgds Ian
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8 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
My understanding is
The EB plate changed size as the number got bigger. EB number sequence was not a constant value away from the TS number.
The factory build number plate remains the same size looking at the few I have.
Who has number 1000000? Late 1959?Yes attached by screws not rivets.
My car was built on 12th December 1959 and has body shell number 1066638.
Rgds Ian
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I fitted a servo to my TR3a in a similar position to the one shown above. There were no issues with the location but the servo started to play up and as I’d found that it wasn’t really necessary, I removed it.
Rgds Ian
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Would a lead washer do the same job? In which case any builders merchant will sell you some code 4 lead from which you can make them. I have also used lead washers under any earth connections I want to make to the chassis/bodywork. I clean back to bare metal and then fit a lead washer before tightening down with a normal flat washer. The lead both protects against corrosion and ensures a good connection.
Rgds Ian
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I bought a sheet of 2mm thick hard rubber and used that to make spacers.
Rgds Ian
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16 hours ago, ricky30dk said:
Am I the only one suffering from rear axle twist/steer? It’s sufficiently noticeable that my wife has started finding reasons not to get in the car…..
If you have wire wheels, check that one of the adapters isn’t loose.
Rgds Ian
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It’s probably too late Roger but I’ve had a lot of success with 2K aerosols. They give a pretty good finish straight out the can and can be polished really well.
Rgds Ian.
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I always thought that the studs were UNC into the cast iron head and UNF on the manifold side?
Rgds Ian
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I mark the outside of the rim with a black felt marker adjacent to the tab. Then I at least know I have the rim properly aligned.
Rgds Ian
Paint removal
in General TR Technical
Posted
This is the larger version.
https://www.frost.co.uk/178mm-angle-grinder-strip-disc/
Rgds Ian