Ian Vincent
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Posts posted by Ian Vincent
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10 hours ago, stuart said:
I take it you dont go out at night then?............................................Or do you...................Cats eyes!
Stuart.
+1
When I rebuilt my TR3a I fitted relays on all the electrics and new sealed beam headlamps and the first time I went out at night, I frightened myself to death. It was like a couple of glow worms - so I converted to halogen H4 but even they can’t compete with modern stuff with HID so last year I bought and fitted the Classic Car LEDs and driving back from the Revival was a revelation.
Rgds Ian -
I have H4 reflectors and Classic LED upgrades - they are excellent.
Rgds Ian
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On the matter of “Life is too short”, I agree with you entirely but a grand was a joke. I rang up a local dealer who I know and asked if he would take a look at it and he offered £2,300 so I was happy to do a deal at that figure. The car had a few issues and was an early 06 model with the balance shaft problem waiting to emerge and that’s an engine out job.
Rgds Ian
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So I’ve always recognised that WBAC are not going to give you the best price for your car but yesterday I had an example of how bad it is.
I have a 2006 Mercedes SLK280 with 57k miles on the clock that needed to go and since it isn’t going to be worth a great deal I gave WBAC a try.
Their initial online valuation was £2135 which is on the low side but just about acceptable so I booked an appointment at the local site - about two miles away.
i arrived at the site and the guy in the office comes out to view the car - we note that there are some minor chips on the edge of the drivers door and that the front bumper has a small scratch on the LHS. He then examines all the paperwork - full MB service history up to 2012 and then full MB independent service history thereafter. And a full set of MoTs.
Next he puts all this data into has tablet and comes up with a revised offer - £1,000.01
Needless to say I walked away.
Rgds Ian
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I would have thought it was a fairly straightforward job to remanufacture the one you have even if it has been butchered a bit by welding the bolt in. It just needs someone with a lathe to make a ferrule and then fill the hole in the plate with weld before re-drilling it and then weld in the ferrule/boss.
I don't have a lathe and I have a list of jobs as long as the proverbial donkey's d**k otherwise I'd offer to do it for you. I certainly know how to weld up holes and grind them flat so I can re-drill them.
Rgds Ian
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Oops, late as usual. Happy Birthday and trust the Panto was good - Oh yes it was.
Rgds Ian
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Of course you could always use Fernox which is not so toxic and lasts longer.
Rgds Ian
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18 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi Graham
just like fitting it, you need to have the engine and GB in alignment.
Although the GB will appear loose it is simply turning on the input shaft.
The friction ion the input shaft is what is keeping it in place.
Roger
+1
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I’ve noticed the same thing. My inner two cylinders run slightly richer than the outer ones.
Rgds Ian
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I currently have STD on one side of the crank and +5 thou on the other and the end float is 7 thou. Moss list an 8 thou oversize thrust washer set but they are NCA. I also have in my spares box another full set plus a half set of +5 thou along with one and a half sets of STD. I have mic'd up all of these and there is minimal variation from the quoted thicknesses of .0925" and .0975". So it looks like I will need to gently rub down a pair of 5 thou oversize to 3 thou unless there is something I have missed.
Rgds Ian
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Whilst I have the sump off and am waiting for new bearings to turn up, I checked the end clearance on the crank this afternoon. It was .007" which is outside the allowable range of .004" to .006".
So how does one go about adjusting this? I have a pair (i.e. two halves that would fit one side of the crankshaft - the other two halves are already in place), of 0.005" oversize thrust washers (bearings) but if I use them the clearance will be reduced to 0.002". What happens if there isn't enough end float on the crank? Or do I have to gently rub down the oversize thrust washers to bring them down to 0.003" oversize?
Rgds Ian
PS I have checked the thickness of the oversize ones and they are the full 5 thou over, it's not split 2.5 thou each side.
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Hi Waldi,
Thks for the suggestion but I have just checked, and the Glyco bearings I would need are out of stock everywhere I looked. As and when the bearings I have ordered turn up, I will check them with plastigauge before I finally fit them.
Rgds Ian
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46 minutes ago, john.r.davies said:
EH? Please explain, Ian? You agree that wet binding will shrink on drying, but then recommend dry wrapping! Do you expect really sweaty hands?
John
My mistake John, I meant to type wet. Doh. It’s an age thing.
Rgds Ian -
Having in the past used natural fibre ropes in a wet environment, yes they do shrink when they dry so it makes perfect sense to me to wrap the wheel when the cord is wet.
Rgds Ian
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Late sixties, early seventies? They are all the same to me.
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I'm impressed you can remember the seventies Stuart, I find everything from that era is a bit hazy.
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I have a Pertronix set up in a distributor that was overhauled by the DD. Works for me, it’s fit and forget.
Rgds Ian
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Thks for the various replies. I have ended up ordering a set of King Tri-metal bearings from CCK Historic for just over £50.
Rgds Ian
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Well spotted Hamish.
Rgds Ian
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For a variety of reasons I have dropped the sump on my TR3a and whilst I was in there I decided to check the condition of the big ends. There was some evidence of wear although this hasn't manifest itself in low oil pressure.
Anyway, for the sake of a few quid on a new set of shells I have decided to replace them and in the course of a quick search on the web found that King (who seem to be the main supplier of shell for TRs offer a standard range and their XP range which they claim offer all sorts of benefits including better oil flow but they make the point that they are suitable for use with forged steel cranks. Apparently they are a tri-metal product with a harder surface material.
Is there a view on whether or not these would be suitable for a regular crankshaft? The cost difference is about £30 which is negligible in the grand scheme of things being less than the cost of 5 litres of decent quality oil.
Rgds Ian
PS and is there any alternative supplier to King?
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1 hour ago, Lebro said:
No, it does not need bleeding at all. Pressure is pressure whether it is in oil or air. Difference between the braking system & the oil gauge is the the oil for the gauge just keeps on coming till the whole pipe (which could be half full of air), is at the end pressure.
Bob
Bob is correct, but if you are fussy, crack open the connection at the gauge end with the engine running until the oil starts to drip out, at which point you have expelled all the air.
Rgds Ian
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41 minutes ago, David Hill said:
How do you find the DD distributor with the Pertronix?
I am annoyed that I really need the latest type which could be programmed correctly.
Regards
David
Smooth as silk. I gave Martin (DD) the details of my engine and he set the distributor up with his recomended curve and provided a set of test results when he returned it to me. I just fitted it back on the engine and it has been good as gold ever since. I have the ignition advanced until it starts to pink and then backed it off a little. AFAICR it is currently at about 12 deg advance at idle with the vacuum connected.
Rgds Ian
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FWIW, to make it easier to compare curves, I plotted the factory curve on an excel spreadsheet graph along with the curves from the 123 manual and it was fairly straightforward to see which would be most suitable. Having said that, the 123 I was using was a S/H bargain and I subsequently decided to revert to a distributor (rebuilt by the Distributor Doctor) and a Pertronix set up.
Rgds Ian
PS Mine is a 4 pot TR3a.
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31 minutes ago, Xmas6 said:
Huge fan of these from Screwfix -Non woven preparation wheel no. 606JJ.
At about seven quid I found them great at removing paint but make sure you keep moving it about as it can generate substantial heat and cause panel distortion.
I used about seven or eight to remove all the primer and light rust from all the inside and outside of all my panels.
Cheers Neil
Those look very similar to the items I bought from Frost.
TR4 front suspension
in General TR Technical
Posted
I have a home made screwed rod version based upon 12mm threaded rod. You are welcome to borrow it but it’s in Frome. If you don’t get a better offer drop me a PM along with timescale for when you will need it.
No warranties but I have successfully used it to dismantle and reassemble my TR3a suspension.
Rgds Ian