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Posts posted by Ian Vincent
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2 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Ian,
did it need a gauge ?
Roger
No, but I fancied the idea of one. I appreciate that I could have removed the gauge and solved the problem but I had second thoughts and decided it was just one more thing to go wrong so I ditched it. I have since used the wiring I installed for a separate purpose and goodness knows where I have put the various unions and connectors - somewhere in the garage.
Rgds Ian
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3 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Dave,
Not quite what you were thinking of but how about this
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/accusump-oil-pressure-accumulator-2-pint-m-accu5a
You could also make your own from a disposable MIG gas cylinder.
Roger
I made one of these from an old MIG cylinder to deal with this issue on my TR3a but the gauge that I used wasn't up to the job and after only a few months it sprang a leak depositing a steady trail of oil along the road. I replaced the gauge but the same thing happened so I removed the whole thing. It had only cost peanuts to make anyway, the trickiest part was fabricating a connector that screwed into one of the oil gallery holes in the block and would accept standard airline fittings.
Rgds Ian
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A belated happy birthday Eli.
Rgds Ian
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if anyone is interested, I have a QH ACR16 alternator in my garage, I replaced it with the Kubota Nippon Denso that I’m using now.
Rgds Ian
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53 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
The standard Kubota item requires an additional ignition controlled supply to get the thing to work. The Racetorations item uses existing vehicle cables without any additional wires.
I’m sure you are right Peter, it was a long time ago that I fitted my Kubota alternator and at the time it only cost £65 Inc postage, but I don’t recall any issues getting it to work and I’m pretty much a numpty with electrics.
Rgds Ian -
As a cheaper alternative than the Racetorations kit, search for Kubota Denso 40 amp alternator on your browser. There are plenty on offer at around £100.
Rgds Ian
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13 minutes ago, DRD said:
Hi Ian - how long does it last?
Cheers Darren
I'm hoping it will last for longer than the two years recommended by Bluecol. My recollection from the original Rolls Royce OC report (I don't have it in front of me) is that Fernox has a life of about 10 years.
Rgds Ian
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On 2/5/2024 at 8:41 PM, stillp said:
Fernox state that "overdosing is not detrimental" so I would assume the same applies to a car's cooling system.
The product used by R-R owners is Fernox Alphi II, which is a combined antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor rather than a cleaner.
I think I'll stick to de-ionised water and Bluecol.
Pete
At the risk of inviting trouble…..I have been using Fernox Alphi ll for the last couple of years and at the moment everything seems good. The coolant (50/50) is still crystal clear, the engine temperature when running stays where it should even in very hot weather and to date I haven’t needed to top the system up. Long May it continue.
Rgds Ian
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On 1/30/2024 at 4:11 PM, john.r.davies said:
My steam-powered caliper gauge never runs out, 'cos it runs on my steam!
Who needs a digital gauge? Or a micrometer?
Bah , Humbug!
John
PS Thanks, Deggers, I wasn't being critical, can see why some might have thought so!
+1
I have occasionally been tempted to buy a digital gauge when I have seen them on special in Lidl but this thread has put me off that idea. My Mituyoyo gauge is at least 35 years old and works perfectly. I periodically check it against my micrometer and it’s still accurate. It’s amazing how often I use it.
Rgds Ian
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To put you out of youyr misery, the Tasmania car is based upon a TR2.
See the following link on tr-register.com.au web site.
I've also attached three more photos.
Rgds Ian
PS In the unlikely event that you are ever in Tasmania, the Hotel (Pub) is worth a visit.
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3 hours ago, RobH said:
Longford Country Club Hotel, Tasmania.
Well done Rob. Clearly not as challenging as I thought - or have you been there?
But what's the car?
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On 1/25/2024 at 12:53 PM, stuart said:
The extra width in the shell is in the front and rear shrouds as the bonnet and boot are the same as the 3000.
FWIW I restored half a dozen Healeys for a Dutch firm, they are very popular over there. Not my cup of tea, every time I finished one and road tested it I used to come back to the workshop and take my TR4a out for a spin to make me feel better as the Healey isnt particularly nice to drive with that great big iron lump up front and the steering wheel so close to your chest, so I would imagine the 4000 would be even worse.
Stuart.
Stuart.
But they have to be one of the best looking cars ever - particularly the original 100/4s.
Rgds Ian
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12 hours ago, TR Rob said:
Hi Ian, does your set up fit easily or does the tyre have to be deflated to fit. Additionally is it a 48 spoke wheel and have you ever had any issues with this set up ?
As Andrew has already said, yes it fits easily enough fully inflated.
Rgds Ian
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I have a 4” wire wheel as a spare with a 155 tyre but I am aware of the fact that this is a non standard arrangement and is very definitely for emergency use only.
Rgds Ian
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Have you traced the wires from the switch? Where do they go? If you look at Rob’s post at the top of this thread, the switch connects to the relay.
Rgds Ian
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That looks pretty good.
Rgds Ian
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2 hours ago, Z320 said:
The asked money for the spinners tool is worth to give some thoughts on making and selling it.
How much are you willing to pay for it and safe your kidneys?
There is a wooden tool available for about £20 from the usual suspects which works well in conjunction with a copper mallet. I have made my own because they do eventually wear out and it lives with the spare wheel and the copper mallet in the car. I used to have octagonal spinners and they had their own short spanner which can be used with a bit of scaffold pipe or a mallet.
Rgds Ian
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I’m a fan of changing the fuel. It’s a simple enough task to drop the float chamber bowls and refill them with fresh fuel.
Rgds Ian -
So I’m in Sydney at the moment staying with friends and yesterday on a whim, I sent John PM and asked if he would be up for a visit. “Absolutely”, was his almost instant reply and I spent a very pleasant couple of hours looking at his cars, talking TRs and being taken for a drive around Sydney in his daily driver. So once again thank you John and if other forum members are in this part of the world, I would suggest contacting John while you are out here, he is an excellent host.
Rgds Ian
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My car with an engine that is similar to yours warms up very quickly. If I drive it straight away, I can usually push the choke in by the end of the road (about 200 yards). If I have it idling before I set off, I usually have it just on the slightly open throttle rather than richer mixture. The choke proper is only needed for starting.
Rgds Ian
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My TR3a also vents straight onto the road if I overfill the radiator but once it’s done it the level stays pretty much in the same place without any need for topping up. So I’ve never bothered with an overflow tank.
Rgds Ian
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You can buy a little kit for checking off the head gasket is blown on eBay. They consist of a cork and a small glass or plastic S bend into which you put a small amount of a chemical. This then plugs into the radiator filler while you warm up the engine. The expanding gasses in the radiator pass through the chemical in the S tube and a change in colour warns you of a potentially blown gasket.
Rgds Ian
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Good work John.
Rgds Ian.
How much does it cost to change a light bulb?
in Social Scene
Posted
Rob, its not about the "Suitable and sufficient' the HASAW "Working at Height' legislation virtually bans working from ladders for jobs like that. I used to be involved in maintenance work and can remember when the act came in (early 2000s?), we had to change all our working practices to avoid falling foul of the legislation. Fortunately we were on a single site and could use cherry pickers for things like gutter cleaning.
Rgds Ian