monty
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Posts posted by monty
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On 7/14/2022 at 10:57 PM, Nick Mathias said:
I am new to refurbishing suspension parts and (after a similar trip to France in June) I want to start on my TR250.
So, I would be interested in what you did with your trailing arms, etc. How far did you go with the cleaning? What did you use? What type of coating was used? What bushes did you use - rubber or poly?I would like to treat or coat all the components before refitting them, and replace all the rubber bushes, so any advice would be very welcome.
ThanksNick
Nick,
I would suggest reading up all the recent posts regarding rear wheel hubs & driveshafts if you are going to the trouble of removing trailing arms for rebushing etc. May be a bit expensive but I feel happier now I have replaced the older units with CDD units & the car feels a little better for the work done.
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Lovely & not busy! Trying seeing this scenario these days especially on the way to Dover!
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3 hours ago, qkingston said:
Not from the brake pads, maybe a small squeal from memsahib when she saw the invoice
Yes one does sometimes have to disguise these things! My recent invoice for new CDD hubs & driveshafts cost me a dinner plus the parts!
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1 hour ago, ianc said:
Have just received notification that Paddy has died in Stoke Mandeville Hospital.
Another legend gone.
A strong supporter of Kop Hill Climb, the biggest and best event in this part of the world.
Ian Cornish
A real legend! Those great days of the Mini Cooper S. A sad loss who will be missed @ Kop for sure.
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1 hour ago, qkingston said:
I fitted Hawk HPS pads from Cambridge Motorsport, really pleased with them
David
Any squealing David?
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On 6/27/2022 at 9:32 AM, harrytr5 said:
I found the Mintex 1144 good but a bit dusty so I changed to Hawk HPS from Cambridge Motorsport and happy with those albeit a tad expensive. I will try the Ferodo ones next time.
Regards Harry
I was thinking of trying the Hawk HPS also Harry. Can you add any further comment? I tried Mintex 1144 a while back on a TR4 with plain discs & they squealed awfully despite correct running in. What was the running in procedure with the Hawks? I have drilled discs on a TR4A with Green Stuff pads @ the moment.
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A great shame, a wonderful racer & the superb Spitfire sequence memorable for ever. RIP Alain.
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Up to a year ago I was running both a TR4 & 4A. The TR4 had a oil cooler fitted by the previous owner & the 4A has never had one fitted. Using both cars pretty well under the same driving conditions including the odd track day & longish trip to France with each car I have noticed absolutely no difference at all in oil pressures or temperatures, so would agree that a cooler is probably not needed unless racing, hill climbing or rallying etc. As others have stated I change the oil regularly (with very low mileages in between changes) with a quality oil & filter. Currently using Classic Oils Heritage 20/50 & a K & N filter. One unfortunate incident was a stone puncturing the cooler on an organised run & leaving all the contents over a car park & TR4 on the back of a breakdown truck!
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I have to confess in flushing & changing the Bluecol anti-freeze only a couple of times during the past 8000 miles & 7 years. It has always been in a 50/50 mix, always clean & showing a -25 degree protection. Never had any cooling problem in that period or indeed even over the 16+ years of ownership, with temp gauge registering around 1/2 way on average. Electric fan kicks in with standing traffic if necessary. I do understand peoples different preferences but the old fashioned system appears to have worked well for me & at a negligible cost.
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What’s wrong with good old Bluecol mixed 50/50 with water & change it every 2 or 3 years?
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1 hour ago, Hamish said:
Same
Same here but good car event in Gloucester on Saturday so an airing then!
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12 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
Race car TRs don't have ticking problems (unless it's a cam follower sticking) but then they use spacer tubes between the rockers with an end shim to tightly control the rockers sideways movement. Maybe there's a connection ?
I even seem to remember one of the TR parts suppliers has them on supply Moss. TR Enterprises...etc. ? Check them out.
Mick Richards
Sounds like that is the solution Mick. Is it a straightforward job to do?
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It always used to be the case that head work usually needed other things done (manifold changes, carb/fuel mods etc) in order to get reasonable overall improvements. I would be taking the advice from a man that knows (Mick) & be very wary before putting it on a car.
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After all the recent forum talk regarding rear hubs/driveshafts on IRS cars I would not want to trust anything that has been cut down etc.
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I have had 2 TR4/4A’s & both have had tappet noise that seems hard to get rid of completely. One car had a cam that required large gaps compared to standard but noise was not much worse than standard. I think it is the design!
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On 6/29/2022 at 5:15 PM, HSM said:
Slightly off topic but does anybody remember Jetex engines
Harvey
Forget Jetex engines! Go to an event held by the Large Model Association & see the real miniature jet engines the are using in their fantastic models! While you are there try & see model Lancasters or B17’s running with 4 mini Merlins! Google www.largemodelassociation.com for shows & dates.
Getting back to Humbrols, they do dry up quicker than earlier times!
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1 minute ago, monty said:
I have the Triumphtune road cam TT1104 which requires tapped gaps of 0.013 for both inlet & exhaust valves. The standard cam requires 0.010 gaps so would suggest somewhere around those figures unless you have a wilder cam.
Sorry Willie meant to add that those settings are cold.
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I have the Triumphtune road cam TT1104 which requires tapped gaps of 0.013 for both inlet & exhaust valves. The standard cam requires 0.010 gaps so would suggest somewhere around those figures unless you have a wilder cam.
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51 minutes ago, johnwill said:
this was inside Portmeirion….
They allowed us 3 cars at a time to go in for a photo shoot. Well done them.
Lovely place! We were there last October but without the TR!
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58 minutes ago, John Morrison said:
Virtually straight away
John
Thanks John for your prompt response. I thought that was the case but couldn’t quite remember what I did last time!
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Just changed the oil in my gearbox/J type overdrive. How long does the oil take to circulate & refill fully the o/d. I was wondering how long to leave before I recheck the oil level in the gearbox. I fully drained the o/d by removing the small sump cover. Does the oil flow into the o/d immediately or does it require a few miles running is the question I guess.
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Just finished adjusting the rear brakes & it occurred to me that I have never noticed anything about tightness of knock on wheels. I have Minilite centre lock alloys & hammer away @ the spinners without really knowing how much to tighten them! I use one of those plywood adapters to protect the spinners. Comments appreciated.
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11 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:
OK, I thought I had this "what oil" question sorted, until I read the above posts concerning ZDDP.
I have been using, and indeed have a stock of, Morris Golden Film 20/50, used by others with TRs, and have been happy so far. 70psi from cold and at all speeds above 2000rpm, drops only to 30 psi when hot on tick over.
Reading about the ZDDP I thought I would check, and there is no mention of it on the Morris website, in the data sheets, or on the back of the container. There is the worrying statement that " it can also be used in modern, high mileage, vehicles where oil consumption may be a problem" If that is the case then it must guarantee that there is no ZDDP, as previuosly stated that would be death to catalytic converters.
I also read that it is a low dispersant oil allowing particles to drop to the bottom of the sump. That might be fine for some vehicles with by-pass filters ( early TR2s ?), but I have a full flow filter with a spin on conversion, which makes me think I need a high detergent oil. My engine has only done 3000 miles since being re built, so there should not be vast quantities of sludge around yet.
I have a 5 litre can of Millers Pistoneze 20/50 which I have not used yet, and looking at the blurb for that reads as below,
DESCRIPTION:
A moderate detergent premium SAE 20w50 multigrade mineral engine oil specifically engineered for classic cars incorporating a modern filtration systems. Contains high quality solvent refined base oils with latest technology performance additives and shear stable viscosity index improver. Formulated with ZDDP (zinc/phosphorus).
APPLICATION:
Use as received for engine lubrication of primarily pre-1980 vehicles, both petrol and diesel, which were developed on the multigrade oils of their time.
So I am thinking this seems to meet the requirements better, being "moderate detergent", for "modern filtration systems" and "Formulated with ZDDP"
I can feel an oil change coming on.
Ralph
That would be fine to use Ralph. That is what I used to use until the price was not competitive with Classic oils Heritage 20/50.
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Classic oils from Bicester is now my choice these days. A fairly priced 20/50 with the correct ZDDP content. I gave up using Millers equivalent due to price hikes.
Bespoke bag for Surrey soft top and frame?
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi Tim,
In a previous life I flew hot-air balloons & we used to have bags for the nylon poles that hold up the burner above the basket. I do not need to go into huge detail but they are perfect for our Surreys etc. in size & material. I have used one for years. Contact Pete on 01488 681527 or zebedeelist.co.uk. If he does not have an old one in stock he can make one for around £50. I have never found anything better.