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Posts posted by monty
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53 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Moss sell the NTN bearings individually. Far more expensive than their silly kit - as it should be.
Roger
Agreed Roger. NTN are good, don’t bother with the kit I say!
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3 hours ago, MichaelH said:
One of the earlier comments asked about stub axle stiffening
Several companies offer a combined new stub axle and hub , usually but not always in aluminium.
Starting from scratch the axle and hub are large enough to carry modern larger bearings
Cost £600 with the up rated bearings
The rather lovely units Classic Driving Developments supply are fitted with Timken bearings. Quality item
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I have an original alloy unit without the finisher as they were not available when the car was restored some years ago. After an excellent spray job it looks fine even close up, in my opinion. Stuart’s mini sill finisher sounds a good option if you must have something.
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25 minutes ago, Tony_C said:
Hi Richard, I’ve got and had the same crooklok for 40+ years in the TR… However, my neighbour who knows ‘everything’ informs me that the modern day thieves can ‘do’ them in seconds…… Just for information before you spend too much time and or money
I think they could ‘do them’ in seconds in the old days! Hidden fuel cut off & a battery cut off are my primary anti-thief measures but I do also have 2 ‘Krooklock’ type devices available.
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4 hours ago, qkingston said:
Hi Malcolm, I got these from Bearing King:
07100S/07210X Timken Tapered Roller Bearing 1x2x0.5910 inch (07100S/07210X Timken)
03062/03162 Timken Tapered Roller Bearing 15.875x41.275x14.288mm (03062/03162 Timken)
Also sold by Wych Bearings and others
Rgds
David
Those are the ones I used a few years ago on a TR4.
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A truly wonderful spectacle despite the sad occasion. So sad to see her horse brought out to say goodbye along with the corgis. Only we could have done her proud like that, a pity we cannot export it. A lovely lady deceased but I think the King will do alright. I shall never forget her & the past few days since her sudden sad demise. RIP your Majesty.
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We are back to this cheap rubbish parts topic again! If people stop buying this cheap stuff maybe it will disappear. These are good cars so spend the extra for a good quality name such as Timken from a bearing specialist. Too many inferior parts out there for our cars!
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On 8/12/2022 at 9:46 AM, stuart said:
Ive had a number of 4a through the workshops with run on issues and they have all been cured by careful tuning. Forget factory manual settings, each car needs to be tuned individually
Stuart.
Agreed Stuart, any rare run on problems with my car have been cured by a retune & higher octane fuel.
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1 hour ago, qkingston said:
It is indeed. I see that many of the later Triumph models (Spit/GT6/Saloon) seem to employ this method as per my pic, is it not efficient? Any reason it wouldn't work on a 4a?
David
I am sure it works but in my view I think it is better to recirculate through a catch tank as previously described rather than through the carbs or inlet. You should see the inside of the catch tank! Mainly residue from the crankcase breather probably but some must come from the rocker area.
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4 minutes ago, stuart said:
Unfortunately with that Triumph tune rocker cover theres no baffle behind it so even with that small filter in the line you would be ingesting some oil mist.
Stuart.
Think that is a flame trap Stuart rather than a filter. I have the same trap fitted to my Racetorations setup. I cannot really see that it can be efficient putting ‘stuff’ from under the rocker box back into the carbs or inlet, hence like you I have the Racetorations catch tank kit!
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I installed the Racetorations kit a few years ago & it has appeared to have worked well. I was lucky that the restorer/previous owner had already fitted an electric fuel pump so the mechanical pump location on the block was easily used for the Racetorations crankcase outlet. The amazing thing to see is the muck/gunge that is deposited in the Racetorations catch tank! A proportion of this muck & gunge would presumably have been sent through the inlet manifold via the PCV. I am sure the engine breathes & runs better & certain that it has got to be better putting that muck into a catch tank.
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Why as a Club did we not get to hear about this?!
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14 hours ago, Richardtr3a said:
That was a good result. The band that I was trying to remember was Manfred Mann. Thank you for the help. I was thinking they might have light hair but the moment that I saw the picture I knew that this was the band I was trying to remember.. I used to watch TOTP every week. What do teenagers watch now ? How important is pop music in the modern world ??
Thanks Richard & B
They became the Manfred Mann Earthband. Saw them live a couple of times in London. Excellent!
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Talking of silicone fluid, what is the recommended replacement time or can it in theory stay unchanged forever?
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I have used it for over 16 years with no real problems. Pedal is probably a little more spongy than when using ordinary fluid but a big plus for me is that it has not leaked all over the vulnerable paint area near the master cylinder location. I have pristine paint there!
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Thanks to all. Now sorted & understood. Took the carbs apart to check exactly what I had (drilled holes in the fillets so no need for holes in the caps) & cleaned the insides of the bodies & the pistons while I had them apart.
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11 hours ago, Rob Salisbury said:
Hi Roger, those deep ones will fit but you have to modify the inner wing (well, bash it with a big hammer and a large steel ball!!) where the front carb sits, think TR5 TR6 inner wing and you get the picture, ..... how do I know this? well I had those self same K&Ns on my old Strombergs before Dad(bless him) bought me a pair of Webers, and the wing mod was just right for the long TRumpets and big Weber K&Ns.
Cheers Rob
The pair I have are the thinner items with one having a corner ‘cut out’ to avoid the wing.
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1 hour ago, RogerH said:
Hi Folks,
thanks for all the info.
I will look deeper into it through the day.
K&N are expensive because they are K&N.
Roger
Roger, I cleaned mine a few weeks ago using the K & N spray cleaner & then re-oiled with their own oil. Now nice & clean with a nice red colour to the elements.
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28 minutes ago, RobH said:
Thanks for that Rob, thought there was a reason somewhere previously. I appear to therefore have fillets in my carb bodies & plain brass (no holes) caps instead of black plastic. (Brass does look better than plastic).
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I have brass damper rod screw caps rather than the newer plastic variety on my SU HS carbs. At an event today I noticed a Mini had a similar setup with brass tops but each one had a small hole drilled in it. I remember reading something about these holes some while ago but have forgotten what they were for. Can somebody remind or enlighten me on their purpose & should I have them in my tops!
I have no running problems with no holes in the caps & I always ensure the chambers are topped up with oil. Just curious to know! -
Another one for those who want a run this Sunday. Classic car gathering from 0900 to 1200hrs @ Hook Norton brewery, Oxfordshire.
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Fancy a drive in the Cotswolds tomorrow? A morning classic car gathering @ The Cotswold Barn, Longborough, Near Stow on the Wold from 0900 to around 1200 hours. Lovely location with a good cafe.
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Hi Pete,
I had a similar problem a couple of years back. Turned out to be that the rack stopped moving due to congealed grease. Was taken out, cleaned & re-greased.
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14 hours ago, Hamish said:
Go for premium fuel. Helped my previous engine.
Yes, 97 octane or above in my mildly tuned 4A or else it will sometimes run on.
Where did you drive to with your TR today
in TRs Out and About
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Sunday @ Kop Hill & a most enjoyable day hosted by the great Chiltern region guys @ gals. Excellent catering, good selection of TR’s on the stand & the usual friendly welcome. Bonus, a quick drive up the hill in a genuine works Austin Cooper S courtesy of its owner & friend. Super day.