monty
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Posts posted by monty
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Monty you can now get TR4a window glass from Moss i would be inclined to go down that route as trying to adjust everything to fit the 5 type is a pain!! Talk to Jeff Marks at Moss he will help you out.
Stuart.
Stuart,
Which Moss is Jeff at?
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You may find that a TR5 door glass may have been fitted as that was all that was available up until not that long ago, in which case you will have to alter the position of the regulator mechanism!! Not a particulary easy job although there was an article in the register magazine a few years ago that illustrated very well how to do it. I think it was written by one of our scandinavian members. Im sure somone out there will be able to find the relevent reference, my magazines are spread between home and workshop so cant help there.
Stuart.
Thanks Stuart, that would explain it! New glass was fitted 6 years ago & receipt says part no:820508 (TRGB) door glass TR4-6. Surprised though that TR4A glass is different to TR5.
Would it be easier to replace with more recent TR4A glass if it now is available?
Monty.
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Horrible, terrible unpleasant job.
Remove door card, slacken regulator bolts and manouvre complete assembly for a long time.
I may have forgotten some bits, but thats the bones of it.
Rob.
Oh dear, maybe I will just see how wet & draughty it gets!
Thanks anyway Rob.
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Is there any facility to adjust the height of the door windows when they are wound up? My car has had new glass fitted a few years ago but appears to sit around 1/2 inch too low & around 1/4 inch too far forward when wound fully up! Gives a fair sized gap between glass & hardtop/softtop!
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Splined joints at top+bottom of column, also the steering wheel centre nut-remove plastic centre cap and check for any movement.
Also, check clamp at top of column just behind dashboard (2 0,5 inch bolts).
Easy to see if the top bolt is catching, it will scrape the bulkhead just below the bolt.
Good luck.
Rob.
Thanks Rob, found the clamp bolts needed bit of a tightening (slight movement on full lock of outer section where it clamps to inner). Hope this has cured it. Will try later.
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Monty,
As Rob says - be very careful.
If I were you I would check all the steering column bolts and clamps before driving it anywhere. I would also check the rack mounts and anything else the garage may have touched. It's all fairly basic (even to a non-engineer like me). Better still, get them to visit you - it's not only your life at risk (let them know the car is considered dangerous).
As far as I am aware, the only way the splines could get damaged is by slackening the clamps too much (e.g. by opening them out to dismantle the column) and then either clamping them up half-a-spline out on reassembly or forgetting to tighten them and letting them rotate at will.
Thanks Brian, just done exactly as you said & found the upper clamp bolts could be tighter as the outer part of the column next to the rubber UJ was moving slightly on the inner section on full lock, enough to put the steering wheel slightly off centre. Will check again tomorrow to see if this has done the trick.
Many thanks to both of you for your concern. Appreciated by a 'new boy'.
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Just put on the alloy 'Surrey' hard-top for the first time & one of the front bolts by the windscreen seems a poor fit into the thread in the hard-top, perhaps cross threaded in the past. Any cure for this? Can it be easily re-threaded? Due to the awkward location in the hard-top it seems a 'one-shot' deal to me!
Also the hard-top squeaks front & back on the rubber seals. Any known cure for this apart from silicone/rubber lubricant?
Many thanks once again.
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Sounds like it's perhaps jumping on the splines-be very carefull indeed!
I've also known the upper column uj bolt to hit the bulkhead as it rotates.
Rob.
Sounds like it's perhaps jumping on the splines-be very carefull indeed!I've also known the upper column uj bolt to hit the bulkhead as it rotates.
Rob.
Thanks Rob for your comments, now I am worried!
Can you perhaps expand. Which splines do you mean, down on the rack or at the steering wheel/column?
What do I look for with regard to the possibility of the upper column UJ bolt hitting bulkhead?
I will run it down to the workshop next week but what could they have done wrong. The column was rebushed & adjusted closer in towards the dashboard by way of the upper column clamp. I assume that meant they removed the whole steering column unit!
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Just had the steering column out to put new bushes in & also had wheel alignment done. Now after full steering lock there is a faint click & I find that the steering wheel appears to be 'off centre' by about the equivalent of, say one spline! It appears to 're-centre' itself after a further full lock when for example I turn in my drive & manouvre into the garage. Very strange, any ideas anyone?
Many thanks in anticipation.
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What settings are people using on their Spax shocks? Car has TRGB lowered/uprated springs, wheels are 5.5J knock on minilites with 195/65.
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Many thanks for that 67.
I have inherited conversion brackets supplied by TRGB along with 2 Spax shocks. All items are new & were fitted for apparently only a short while as the previous owner thought the brackets and/or shocks were running too close to the wheels/tyres (195's). He reverted back to the lever shocks but I would like to convert to telescopics. I guess the brackets obviously fit but not too sure what to do now!
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Can some kind person tell me what is involved in removing the lever shocks (TR4A IRS), attaching chassis brackets and fitting on Spax adjustables. Is it a DIY job or does the whole suspension/springs etc need to be removed?
Many thanks.
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Urgent request! Can somebody supply me with the size socket required for the steering wheel to column nut on TR4A.
Many thanks,
Monty.
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Having tried to alleviate my rear oilseal leakage by checking & cleaning the breather system etc. I now, since the cleaning (not much needed & no blockages), seem to have a engine 'running on' problem. It could just be a coincidence but on disconnecting the breather pipe from the inlet manifold the running on stops!
Could it also possibly be the fuel I am using? 95 octane unleaded. Should I up the rating to say BP Ultimate or Shell Optimax (97/98)? (Engine has unleaded head).
Anty suggestions please.
Many thanks,
Monty.
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Hi Andy
The movement you discribe is slack in the collapsable steering column assembly.
Firstly open the bonnet and locate the clamp holding the top steering column to the bottom steering shaft ( just ahead of the top flexi coupling). Slacken the two 1/4 bolts holding the clamp tight. Set the steering wheel to the correct location (about 1/8 in from all the way in). Making sure the steering wheel is not pushed back out again, push the clamp up till it rubs on the nylon thrust washer on the outer steering column. Lock the bolts back up on the clamp. This should stop the float you discribe. Don't overtighen the clamp bolts, as this is the crude forrunner of the collapsible steering column now fitted to all cars.
There is probably a setting torque for this assy somewhere which probably says you should after slackening the bolts should back off the grub screw on the top plate on the clamp. After repositioning the clamp should tighten the bolts and then tighten the grub screw to a certain torque
Hi Dale,
Is this the procedure for adjusting the length of the steering column as I am trying to adjust my driving position. According to the handbook I am supposed to slacken the locknut, turn the allen screw, slacken a couple of clamps under the dash panel inside the car & hey presto adjust the column length! Only problem is, I cannot shift the allen key, absolutely very tight! Any suggestions?
Monty.
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Hi
not an uncommon problem by any stretch of the imagination!
On a restored engine the oil pressure can be very high, this can force oil out of every seal going. Might be worth backing off the pressure a bit.
Marvul is right re: crankcase pressure; the "4" engine is very long-stroked and builds up high case pressures. Again, a new build can be "tight" and enhance this effect.
My own car has a drip-drip-drip (which has improved as the engine has bed in) and I've learned not to be worried about it. Andy's rally prep'd TR4 had the conversion and still leaked!
I've heard good things about Halford's classic oil and its "Seall swelling" agent that apparently help stop leaks. Haven't tried it though. Has anyone had any experience?
Cheers
Ade
Hi Ade,
Thanks for your comments. How do I back off the oil pressure?
Monty.
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Hi All,
Urgent help & advice needed! I have recently purchased a nicely restored TR4A & am finding my way around it. The engine appears to have a reasonable size leak at the rear which I think is the dreaded rear oil seal. I have read up all the points about this in the forums but still am somewhat confused!
The car is booked in for investigation/rectification at my local performance car workshop (very good reputation/ex Formula 1 technician etc) & he is reasonably confident it can be cured with gearbox etc out.
Reading the forums this appears not always certain!
I do not really want to go to the trouble/expense of stripping engine to machine/regrind crank for an oilseal mod so do I try with an ordinary replacement (is it worth it?) or just leave the leak to drip on my garage floor & everywhere else!
Any comments please.
Regards,
J.
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Hi Monty
About 25-35psi at tick over and 70psi at 2000+ revs. Maybe after a long run down the motorway it will be a little lower at tick over and won't reach 70 psi until 2500 revs.
Use at least 20/50 oil or I use Penrite 20/60 which is even better.
Cheers
Thanks. Does anybody use semi-synthetic?
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Hi again,
Next question from a potential new boy! What kind of oil pressure should I expect on a TR4A?
Regards.
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Hello All,
I am hoping to become a TR4A owner soon so am full of questions etc!
The first is what engine & gearbox oil other TR4A members use & prefer?
Thanks & regards.
Monty.
Fuse blowing
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Oh dear, I have a fuse blowing problem on the circuit that needs the ignition on. The one that controls wiper motor, indicators, fuel gauge, overdrive etc etc! Where do I start? Everytime I put a new fuse in, it blows as soon as I try indicators or wipers etc. Is simple elimination the only way to solve this or is there a known problem that is most likely? Only thing of note recently was removal of steering column for new bushes, could my technician have disturbed a wire somewhere?
Many thanks.