monty
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Posts posted by monty
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After much searching & disappointment I have finally found somewhere that can make a Surrey soft-top in coloured mohair! Not cheap but a super result.
Company is long established car trimmings outfit in Cheltenham.
They are happy to do items for other TR owners so details can be supplied if required.
Emails to john.debs@tesco.net.
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi Monty,
If Chris built the engine, I doubt that you have much to worry about . . .
Cheers,
Alec
Thanks Alec.
Have just discovered that it has been fitted with a harmonic crank damper during the rebuild so feel a little better!
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi All,
I have recently read a recent posting regarding a broken crank with a possible cause being the removal of the standard cooling fan & replacing with the seperate Kenlowe unit.
Can somebody enlighten me on this subject?
My TR4A was fitted with a Kenlowe unit (old fan removed from its usual position) when rebuilt & restored a few years ago before my purchase. According to records I have, the crankshaft assembly was polished & balanced by Chris Conolly.
I am now worried that something could go wrong with the crank because the engine has been modified in this way. I was led to believe that the removal of the standard fan & replacing with the Kenlowe was a good thing to do!
Regards,
Monty.
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Hello again,
Our TR4 is back on the roads, although -for the moment- at a pace that I definitely do not like
We rebuilt the engine using replacement parts, without any modifications. I am looking for my own project and personal money pit
I would like to thank everyone here who helped me out with possible causes of the crankshaft failure and rebuilding suggestions. Our parts supplier ( www.crankshaft.be) said the cause was bad balancing of the clutch and the fan that had been replaced by a Kenlowe electric fan.
As The Doors said before, now it's "waiting for the sun"
Kind regards,
Kristof.
This has got me worried! My TR4A has the original fan replaced by the Kenlowe unit.
Have most owners kept the original arrangement or gone the Kenlowe route which I thought was a good improvement.
Can somebody explain why using the Kenlowe the crank could possibly break?
According to my records the crank was balanced when the engine was rebuilt some years before my purchase.
Many thanks,
Monty.
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Thanks Rhodri.
Yes I mean the little tube which no longer has a pipe to distributor (converted to electronic ignition) but has just been left. I think I read somewhere that the tube if not now used should be blocked off?
I cannot see any drilled webs so it would appear that the carbs have been run like this since restoration (solid brass caps/no drillings in web or caps) but they appear to work well except for one that runs rich, hence change of needles/springs. Acceleration appears good with a rolling road some time ago, at end of restoration, giving good results.
Regards,
Monty.
On further investigation it appears I have dashpot covers with a drilling in the web (did not look closely enough) so that is ok with the brass caps.
The reason for no vacuum advance to the dizzy is that I have a 'Rally spec. TR4' unit with no facility for vacuum advance, only mechanical. It has Aldon electronic ignition installed. Presumably the dizzy was fitted to match other mods such as cam etc. Any comments to the dizzy would be appreciated.
Regards,
Monty.
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By vacuum advance hole I take it you mean the little tube with the pipe to the distributor, but I fail to see what difference K and Ns would make to that? If you mean the large round holes where the filter bolts on then they should be left clear.
Solid caps should only be used if the web on the neck of the chamber has been drilled. If there is no drilling then the plastic type of cap with a vent hole must be used. I suppose you could drill the brass cap ? What you must not end up with is a drilled cap AND a drilled web as this will give an air leak directly into the vacuum part of the carb.
As you have things now, no drillings, it will be extremely difficult for the carb to work. The needle will not rise quickly enough giving you a very weak mixture on acceleration, nor will it drop quickly enough when coming off the throttle, both situations caused by no venting of the air .
Thanks Rhodri.
Yes I mean the little tube which no longer has a pipe to distributor (converted to electronic ignition) but has just been left. I think I read somewhere that the tube if not now used should be blocked off?
I cannot see any drilled webs so it would appear that the carbs have been run like this since restoration (solid brass caps/no drillings in web or caps) but they appear to work well except for one that runs rich, hence change of needles/springs. Acceleration appears good with a rolling road some time ago, at end of restoration, giving good results.
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi All,
Still struggling to get my carbs sorted (different needles/springs & retuning) & have just noticed that the vacuum advance hole/connection is presently not sealed off. Should it be or does it make no difference to things? It is not used as I am running K & N filters.
Also I have the old brass screw topped damper assemblies on my HS6 carbs. Should they be the newer black plastic tops with I believe an air hole or does it not matter? The brass tops do look better!
Regards,
Monty.
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Monty
I would also recommend Andrew what he doesn,t know about SU,s is,nt worth knowing.
But if you like your own research try one called winsu
I find it,s real fun and the charts are good to
It helped me setup my triple SU.s on the six
But I would have to say that Andrew pointed me in the right direction for the four
Cheers see some of you at Malvern
Reg
Thanks Reg. Yes I contacted Andrew who was very helpful indeed. A real enthusiast & so nice to talk to.
He will be at Malvern with some knowledge & parts. If anyone wants anything specific then give him a call & he will bring to Malvern.
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi
Agreed on the oil cooler ...... in fact you need to keep a weather eye out for oil running too cold with a cooler on a road car; Even on a rally car if youre doing short tests and then long gentle regularities.
I wouldnt use one unless youre going to be running some real temperature.
Regards
Tony
Thanks for that Tony.
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi Monty
Have to agree with Adey. Mine is a fast road, does the odd track day (three this year) just blated down to DiJon with hot motorway blast, no problem, Oil sits at 70psi. I was told that only race and rally cars needed it and then only if really hot and working at 5000rpm
Fast road is fine without. Better to keep the under bonnet area cool for the carbs...............change the oil every 3000miles and buy the good stuff!
Thanks Ade & Mike,
Your comments pretty are well spot-on with my thoughts! I am using Castrol Classic 20/50 which will be changed every year/3000 miles so that should be ok. My oil pressure readings are close to yours so feel happy about that!
Regards,
Monty.
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This is a fun (in a nerdy kind of way) site for comparing needles.
http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/
ade
Yes Ade,
I found that a few days ago. We are very sad are we not!!!!!!!!!!
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi All again,
What are peoples thoughts on an oil cooler on a TR4A (modified with stage 2/3 head, freeflow manifold/exhaust, road cam, 87mm pistons).
Have most owners fitted them or left well alone?
What is the best setup if needed & what is the general fitting location?
What would I need?
Oil pressure seems to be in line with everybodys thoughts & drops a little when hot.
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi Monty,
My TR4A has a similar spec engine to yours, and I was recommended to fit SW needles. When I subsequently had a rolling road session, the operator modified the profile of the needles slightly, but did not recommend changing them. Hope this helps!
Graeme
Thanks Graeme,
Yes, I have looked at the profile of the SW which is the recommended richer needle for our kind of mods but the one originally put in was the TR which is roughly in between the standard TW & the SW (richer). I think I will get another TR needle as supposedly original & see how it works.
I must say that the car seemed to go very well with a different needle in each carb & 2 pots richer than the other 2!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hi Monty,
A trustworthy rolling road operator would be a good start !
Revington in Somerset, Sigma in Dorset, Janspeed in Wiltshire - for example . . .
There must be somebody reliable closer to your home ?
Try asking the local TR group ? That's Glavon, by the way.
Cheers,
Alec
Thanks Alec.
Yes, I do intend to get it on a R/R at some stage but it apparently had a few hours at what should have been a reliable operation so am surprised to find the discrepancy & am assuming the previous owner messed around with the needles.
In the meantime in order to get driving again what do you have any suggestions as to which needles to match or experiment with both?
I am a member of Glavon so will ask somebody there about R/R.
Regards,
Monty.
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Can somebody help me!
Some 3000 miles (approx) the previous owner had the newly restored car put on a rolling road where the HS6 carbs were setup with, according to receipt, TR needles instead of standard TW needles (car has stage 2/3 head, 87mm pistons, modded exhaust, Triumphtune road cam & K & N filters).
I have noticed that the 2 plugs associated with one of the carbs seem more sooty & hence richer than the other 2 & have tried to adjust the jets accordingly. Today after trying out my new Carbalancer I thought I would just check the needles & lo & behold the carb feeding the 'richer' plugs has a TR needle (slightly richer item)
while the other carb has a standard TW & not the same TR needle as shown on an invoice.
Not sure if the previous owner changed the setup but what should I do now? Change the standard TW & match with the slightly richer TR which was supposed to be the setup with the mods on the rolling road or reduce the richness & match with the other TW needle bringing it to standard even with those engine mods?
A dilema! Any SU needle expert out there please? Desperate from Gloucestershire!!!
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The reprints are clearly marked on the back page as "Copyright Triumph Motors - British LeylandU K Limited 1965 and Brooklands Books Limited 1985, and 1998", and have a BMH Insurance ad on the inside back cover. The original will obviously not have these distinctive giveaways, and I suspect the ISBN will also be different.
Many thanks Brian.
Monty.
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I have been offered a TR4A Owners Handbook in mint condition supposedly a genuine 1965 issue.
How can I tell if it is indeed original & not a Brooklands Books repro which I already have?
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John Skinner list them in their catalogue
part number 41276 for a mohair surrey to canopy.
Unhelpful @ J.F.Skinner! Have not done tops for 18 months even though I pointed out that they are listed in their catalogue!
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John Skinner list them in their catalogue
part number 41276 for a mohair surrey to canopy.
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Can anybody recommend a supplier of a new Surrey soft top in mohair. I can find places that supply regular soft tops but the Surrey appears elusive!
Many thanks.
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Hi All,
Does anybody who has minilite wheels fitted know the silver paint reference colour/number as I need to touch in a couple of scratches.
Many thanks,
Monty.
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I appear to have 11" wiper blades on the car but the only replacements that I can find are 10" & indeed the spare set that came with the car are also only 10". Where can I obtain 11" items with the same standard fittings?
Thanks,
Monty.
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Non-detergent type oils are recommended for gearbox applications; e.g. SAE 30W. I have used this in non-racing service for many years, after using SAE 50W non-detergent whose viscosity is on a par with 80-90W GL. Racetorations advises engine oil, not stipulating non-detergent type. Here in the U.S., Quantum Mechanics, a long-time rebuilder of British gearboxes and O/D units has been specifying SAE 30W non-detergent for many years, and their boxes do see competition duty.
Since no automotive engines now specify non-detergent type oils it is rather scarce, but happens to be the oil of choice for air compressors and other industrial machinery, so will ever be available somewhere.
Since my earlier posting Penrite have replied to me saying that their Mild EP oil should be ok but if the requirement is for a non EP then they recommend their Gearbox oil 30. I think I will go with that.
Monty.
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Hi All,
Been reading all past topics about gearbox/overdrive oil & had just about decided to go with using Castrol ST90 or EP80W when the man from Overdrive Repair Services said he would not use either but he would put in the same oil as the engine, Castrol Classic 20/50! Where do I go now!!!
Monty.
surrey soft top
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Sorry.
They are Frank Rouse Motor Trimmers, Unit 8, Maida Vale Business Centre, Maida Vale Road, Cheltenham. (01242 513394). Around £300 for a Surrey soft top in mohair (several colours) made as exact copy of original.
Regards,
Monty.
Posting their details on this forum will be simpler.
Regards
David