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monty

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Posts posted by monty

  1. 2 hours ago, Cotswoldiver said:

    Following on from Roger's comments re: members of the TR Register, I must admit  I did think about dropping a message on the forum just in case someone close by could have helped in any small way possible, but with the original estimate of assistance arriving changed to a shorter period I thought i would be OK.

    May be, just may be we could have a new sub heading within the forum for posting emergency help needed. I know if i saw something like that and it was in reasonable driving distance i would try and help, even if it was to arrive with a cuppa and some company - but I realise that is also fraught with issue in these current times.

    Interestingly, I had a response from the RAC today after making the complaint, virtually the same standard response but accompanied with the promise of a cheque for £75 to follow in the post.

    Sounds like the increasing practice of paying off poor customer service with a cheque! I recently got the same thing from my electricity company. A standard apology & a measly £20 for terrible customer service! Just not good enough in my view.

  2. 24 minutes ago, John Morrison said:

    Well I have to say in the main I find these reports utterly appalling.

    To be fair to A Plan there was a known issue with finding a client needing breakdown service bought via our scheme, it required quoting a special reference number and was highlighted in these pages sometime ago.

    I’m away just now but will highlight when I get home next week.

    As for leaving an OAP for over a day by the side of the road deserves national press coverage 

    I wonder what the likes of Martin Lewis would say about an organisation taking our hardearned cash for a service they clearly are unable to perform 

    John

    Yes I totally agree John. Those affected by this terrible service should be contacting any relevant person or organisation to highlight & address this situation.

  3. 17 minutes ago, MilesA said:

    Eldest daughter's headlamps on her RAV4 failed as she joined an unlit section of the M4 on her way back from Bristol last Friday. Phoned RAC who said it would be 6 hours. She gave them a lecture about risk to lone woman on the roadside to no avail. Remembered she also had AA cover via a bank account and they quoted 4 hours which they pretty much honoured except they did not have a single suitable replacement bulb. Eventually, sat it out until reasonably light then drove home to London and went to work - shattered. 

    Basically, looks as if we are paying for no service for recovery, as with so many businesses these days.

    Also, I failed as a father. All my cars carry a full bulb replacement set, a practice that I have clearly not imparted to my daughters. 

    Miles

    This is unacceptable service, a girl on her own & the RAC quoting 4 to 6 hours. If the facts are correct then those affected should be writing to the RAC & bringing it to the attention of the media etc. Just not good enough & I am awaiting a sensible comment from Hagerty Insurance who use the RAC.

  4. A meeting up is being held this Sunday 2ndJuly @ the Classic Motor Hub near Bibury, Gloucestershire GL75FF. It is a Club day & so far there is only one entry from the TR Register, me! A great venue with a fantastic collection of cars to view along with refreshment facilities & friendly petrolheads! A fiver entry only, book online @ www.Classicmotorhub.com.

     

  5. Is the stub axle/hub failure situation also applicable to the front units rather than the rear units that much has been written about?

    I fitted new CDD rear units with driveshafts a year ago but am thinking about replacing the front hubs/stubs at the end of the summer.

  6. On 1/13/2020 at 12:21 PM, RogerH said:

    Hi Andy,

    I agree with 99% of your post above.

    But, I would suggest that the car manufacturers went over to the CV joints because they are actually cheaper to produce and fit.

    Those UJ are little time wasters.

    Indeed the CV has many advantages that may improve the humble TR.

    Roger

    I fitted the CDD units with CV joints around a year ago & noticed immediately the gear change felt a little more precise but main reason was to replace the hubs just in case & am glad I spent the money to do it.

  7. Many thanks to Rob& Keith for all your suggestions. The copper wire fix has appeared to work! Tried it a couple of times yesterday & the horn worked 2 out of about 3 times so still a small earthing problem but at least we know where we are! Until I can replace the correct 130581 wires is it safe to leave the copper wire in place to say get through MOT?

  8. Hi again Rob. No joy when earthing the ring & no noise from the horns! Appears to be a good connection with the wire to the back of the ring. Is there an easy way to check the earth wires are good on the steering column? 

  9. 5 minutes ago, RobH said:

    If the relay is working when you earth W1, the only thing that can be at fault is the link to earth from pin W1 via the horn push.  You could check the connection up to the copper ring for the 'pencil' by earthing the ring with a wire. If the horns work then, it must be the pencil not making contact, or the steering column not being earthed. 

    If the horns don't sound when you earth the ring there must be a bad connection in the purple/black wire  from the relay. 

    I am suspecting the column earthing now but the earth wires look ok but difficult due to location to be sure. When this problem started I replaced the standard pencil with a Motalita connection so will be surprised if that is at fault. Will try & check the copper ring later.

    Thanks again.

  10. 1 hour ago, RobH said:

    C1 will have no voltage on it until the relay operates.  Internally that relay has a link from C2 ( power in ) to the top of the relay coil (which would be W2 if it had been connected to a separate terminal).   Earthing W1 should operate the relay and sound the horn.  If that doesn't happen the relay is probably duff.   If you link C1 to C2 it will power the horns directly to check they work. 

    If you can't get the right relay, you could use an overdrive relay by linking both C2 and W2 to +12v . 

    However, I see the O/D relay is incredibly expensive so you could also use a modern relay at about one tenth the cost and connected like this:

    +12v to pins 86 and 30, (purple wire)

    Horn push to pin 85 ( purple/black)

    pin 87 to horns. (purple/yellow)

     

    Many thanks Rob. The horns & relay work after doing what you suggested. Where to go next?

  11. Still trying to find this fault! Just been checking the relay & using a test led light I have power @ terminals C2 & W1 but nothing on terminal C1 that connects to the actual horns. My electrical knowledge is basic so can anybody tell me if this is correct or should C1 also be live. Could this be the fault? Apparently this relay is unavailable Moss so what are the alternatives if this is faulty?

  12. On 5/24/2023 at 3:22 PM, rcreweread said:

    Rich - just make sure all the bolts/nuts are properly tight around the various joints on the different parts of the OD - however, be aware that oil leaks from elsewhere often end up around and under the OD so try and identify exactly where the leaks are coming from.

    I agree with Roger - do NOT put any additives in the gearbox oil or you are likely to fook your OD .

    Anyway, why change the habits of a lifetime - even triumph couldn't make their gearboxes oil tight and it is a cheap form of underseal!

    cheers Rich

    That is very true Rich. My chassis & underside is immaculate!

  13. Is the horn working Nick? I have a similar problem where I believe I have a faulty wiring connection somewhere that is causing the horn not to work. Have spent hours trying to find it but no success. Incidentally did you have a plastic disc with your Motalita which I think is supposed to insulate between the wheel boss & the copper ring that the ‘pencil’ makes contact with.

  14. 2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

    Is the pencil end actually in contact with the slip ring?   Or is the plastic disc getting in the way?   

    That was my thinking & have ordered the much better pencil from Motalita.

  15. 2 hours ago, John Morrison said:

    Monty check horns own in line fuse first then use a screwdriver down the pencil hole to earth against the side.

    If that gets to blow the horns your issue is at that end.

     If not you could check that earth continuity wires that bridge the rubber doughnuts in the steering column are still intact 

    next wound be a wire directly from the battery to each horn in turn to ensure they are still working 

    John

    Thanks for that John. What is that plastic disc & what does it do apart from possibly preventing a good contact between the copper ring & the pencil push?

  16. Driving yesterday the horn suddenly only worked intermittently & now today it does not work at all. I have taken the horn push out from the Motalita wheel along with the ‘pencil’ which is a little worn on the soldered end but not excessively. With the steering wheel off the copper ring appears pretty clean. There is a plastic disc with a cutout (presumably for the ‘pencil’) but it just appears to ‘float’ on top of the copper ring so not sure what that does. The ‘pencil’ is the 2.6 length but it has worked fine for years with the Motalita wheel. 
    A bit baffled so any suggestions gratefully received.

  17. Yes a lovely day & event. These are the kind of events I enjoy rather than something like the International. No Register ‘shop’ presence was disappointing especially after such a thing was advertised. Every other Triumph club appeared to have something for sale on offer  & put us to shame a little. Who knows, somebody may have become a member if they had been shown some Club presence & merchandise!

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