monty
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Posts posted by monty
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Hi All,
I have had run on problems in the past (& still very very occasionally) but have found that by using Shell Formula (used to be Optimax) 98 octane the problem is virtually eliminated. Costs a bit more in fuel but engine seems to run better & I get 30 mpg. Using BP6HS plugs (tried BP7HS as engine was running a little rich at one time but no change in running on).
My TR4A has all the mods (stainless 4 branch, improved cam, electronic ignition etc).
If I have to go down in octane then run on reappears.
Regards,
Monty.
Hi,Interesting. I've had run-on problems for some time on my 4A, and wondered if de-coke etc might help. This winter I've 'gone unleaded' in any event - and she still runs on, albeit not so much. Hence I read the TRaction article with great interest. I'm already on optronic ignition, so am guessing that the combination of "new" head and the ignition shouldn't be contributing to the problem. Interestingly, I'd previously found that switching on the (manually operated) extra cooling fan shortly before ignition switch-off helped to reduce the run-on. Hence I'm leaning toward the temparature and cooling notion. I also run with stainless exhaust. One point that I'd really like help with please ....... spark plugs. I'm currently on NGK BP6 HS (as fitted at service by TR specialists of national renown). However the talk seems to centre around using ES not HS. Is that likely to be the issue ? However, from the NGK website the ES plugs seem to be about 6mm deeper than the HS - if I convert to ES are they likely to experience a painful meeting with my pistons, or cause any other grief ???
My peer group wisdom will be greatly appreciated please ?
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TR values on the up? Sussex Sports Cars have a TR5 for £35000!
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I think it is out of print, you will be lucky to find even a used copy for much less than $100 over here.
Stan
Look on Amazon. I picked up a new copy (soft back) last year for less than £10!
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi All,
My car was originally exported new to the US as black with white Surrey hard & soft tops & of course the white wall tyres!
When I bought it after restoration it was in Royal Blue with again white tops. I wasn't keen on the white so got an excellent sprayer in Gloucestershire to match the 'wraparound' in blue which looked good but I was still unhappy with the white vinyl. After much searching I found somebody to make me a soft 'Surrey' in navy blue mohair. The whole thing now looks excellent & was glad I lost the white!
Regards,
Monty.
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Thanks stuart, the n/s is about 3/4 s inch, and sitting on the rubber running along the screen pillar,but theres a slight gap at the bottom where the door meets the dash top ,as to the o/s the gap is very small,i will try to adjust the sliders and see what happens,regards nick.
Hi,
I have a similar problem with glass gaps. Apparently some TR4A's were restored with TR5 window glass due to non availability of the correct item. (TR5 glass is a slightly different shape & therefore sits in the door winding mechanism a little different).
I was concerned at first but was advised by more knowledgable people than myself to leave alone if possible as it is a b..... of a job to get right! I have learned to live with a slight gap with no problems but then my car does not do rain!
TR4A glass is now apparently available again so I guess the real answer is to refit with that.
Regards,
Monty.
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Monty,
back home again, the flathead tasted beautiful, just had a look at my fulcrum pins. Looks as though turning them round the other way moves the hinge point roughly 0.8cm.
The way you have yours, compared to the way I have mine, means yours are 0.8cm further IN.
This means you will have more NEGATIVE camber than me. (Not as I guessed before.)
For a rough camber measurement you can use a bit of straight edged wood the length of the wheel and tyre and a spirit level.
If you don't change them keep an eye on the eveness of your tyre wear for a while.
Thanks Littlejim. Must be lovely having a TR out there with all that nice weather!
What you say is all logical to me. I have done exactly as you say with a spirit level & I would guess I have a couple of degrees negative camber all round with tyres wearing pretty well evenly. Now that it has all been rebushed & set up very recently I will leave well alone & go on to worry about the next problem!
Regards,
Monty.
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Monty,
I would check the date of publication of your manual against the date of manufacture of your car. I think books by Williams etc. written later might be more likely to have picked up when the direction of the curve of the upper fulcrum pin was changed, but of course I can't know 100%. If the person fitting it doesn't really know which way round it goes, fitting it like in your manual 'looks right', as the curve of the pin matches the curve of the turret. As Rhodri says if yours are the wrong way round you might pick it up by measuring the camber on your front wheels. I'm down the coast, away from my car bits and my manuals, so I can't go and have a look at what would change. From the picture it looks as though the top of the tyre would be moved out further giving you too much positive camber. if you've added a lot of lead loading and fitted a V8 you might like it that way.
Relying on the restorer is a bit like believing in God or Allah or whoever, it's a faith issue not a fact issue; as I said my PO's 'restorer' had two bob each way by doing the opposite on each side, including putting the front wishbone arm at the back.
I have a small amount of negative camber on the front with the fulcrum pin fitted as the TR4A workshop manual (following the curve of the turret that 'looks right'). This camber appears to be pretty well the same as the the rear wheels. Seems to drive fine but will get the camber angles measured soon though out of interest.
Regards,
Monty.
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Some kind restorer posted this photo of the correct way of putting the top of the 4A front suspension together, It shows the correct way round to mount the top fulcrum pin and the correct placement of the front and rear wishbone arms, which are different lengths. (Wrong way round gives some weird castor angles.) triumph built in a couple of Murphy possibilities here.
I was going to copy the way mine was assembled when purchased, but found the 'pro' who had done it for the previous owner had done one way on one side and everything reversed on the other side. Research, books, forums etc. revealed the attached photo was the way to do it for 4as with 3 deg castor.
Thanks Littlejim but as stated previously this is the opposite way to the official Triumph TR4A workshop manual which is what my restorer has obviously followed. All very strange!
Regards,
Monty.
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Put it back on the same way it came off- if it drove okay, it should be right. I believe that there is an obvious difference to the camber if you have it wrong. Mine is a late '62 TR4 and the curve of the shaft goes in towards the centre of the car.
Thanks Rhodri. It has not been taken off but I have recently noticed that it is the same as yours, which is as shown in the official TR4A workshop manual. The 2 restoration books mentioned show it the other way which conflicts with Triumph's drawings.
Regards,
Monty.
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Monty,
It matters a great deal.
Unfortunately, I cannot help as to which is the right way around for different cars as none of mine have original standard fulcrum pins any longer.
If you fit it the wrong way around, you will never set your suspension geometry correctly and the car will be awful to drive.
I would do a search on the forum as this question has been asked a few times before and answers will have been given.
I cannot remember the answer as it makes no difference to me as already stated.
Good luck
Regards
Thanks David, done that & still confused as various people seem to have different ideas on which is right!
I just cannot believe that the TR4A workshop manual would have been wrong all these years!
My pin is the same as the manual & appears to drive & steer ok but then I cannot compare it easily to another 4A!
Regards,
Monty.
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Monty, I would wait to see if anyone confirms what I'm about to say to be sure, but as far as I'm aware the positioning of the upper fulcrum pin changed round during TR4 production. Between the two sets of bolt holes the pin appears to have a curve in it's casting. As far as I'm aware the curve follows the curve of the top edge of the suspension turret of the chassis on the TR2s & 3s and is the opposite way around on 4a to 6. I have a 1962 TR4 and I'm sure from memory the curve follows the early cars description above. Not sure what else changed during TR4 production to make the change over necessary, but I think late TR4's pins are teh same way around as the 4a to 6.
Regards
Trevor.
Hi Trevor,
Yes, your comments tend to agree with Bill Piggott's book & the Roger Williams TR4/TR4A restoration book but the TR4A official workshop manual has a diagram definately showing the pin curve following the curve of the suspension turret. It suggests to me that maybe it just doesn't matter?
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi All,
I am confused! Just had the front suspension polybushed & have noticed that the top fulcrum pin is assembled the same way as the official Triumph TR4A workshop manual but is shown the opposite way in Bill Piggotts 'Original Triumph TR4/4A/5/6' book!
I have read that it is a common mistake that restorers make i.e fit the pin the 'wrong way round' but which is right?
It would seem to me that the workshop manual should be correct but Bill is a knowledgeable chap!
Anybody noticed this discrepancy, been down this route or does it matter?
It seems to be that many fixings on the front suspension can be assembled different ways round (bolts etc). Somewhat worrying?
Regards,
Monty.
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KYY 478 C
Hi Bob,
I got my pressed plates from www.classic-number-plate.com. They were very quick & good quality.
Regards,
Monty.
Collected my V948 Number Plate Authorisation Certificate from the DVLA Wimbedon this morning and shot down to the local numberplate company who had told me over the phone that they sold age related metal number plates.
Their "interpretation" of the correct metal( pressed aluminium ) is modern black acrylic with white letters.YUCK.Thank you but no thank you.
Found another source for "real number plates" but a delay of five days At least I was able to take the documentation in personally and take it away again.
The blind 90 year old Aunt will have to wait a little for her belated birthday ride in the car.
So next week ( ??? ) KYY 478 C will eventually hit the streets.
Bob
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Hi Monty.
I'll say first of all that I haven't had to do this excercise myself, so here are my thoughts.
I have been in Automotive engineering for a number of years & knowing the techniques applied for cost effectiveness it is likely that the check strap arrestor was spun rivetted on to the A post during the manufacturing process & before the post was assembled into the tub. Therefore the rivet process can be replaced by using bolts of a similar dimension.
Get access to the back of the A post by removing the trim panel & look at the problem of removing any remaining rivet etc - pick the easiest side to remove where you can sacrifice the rivet or the stop - I suggest that a Dremel grinder will easily remove the head or tail of the rivet, which can then be gently punched out. Fit a new check strap stop using pan head bolts, probably readily available from your local hardware store.
Two things to look out for, that the check strap is not impeded by the bolt (or Nut) & be careful with the check strap off the door as the door can open too wide, resulting in an appointment with the body shop.
It may be worth having a natter with one of the big Triumph restorers before starting this as I'm sure that they will have come accross this problem before. Some of our forum contributors will also have had this problem & may know a better way.
Dave
Thanks Dave, all done as you described so hope that will last as it was a horrible little job!
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi All again,
When fitting poly bushes has anybody also bothered to replace the nylon trunnion bushes with poly items?
Superflex list them but wondered if it was necessary as nylon ones are already in place as standard.
Regards,
Monty.
Hi All,
Just had the poly bushes fitted (beware buying from Superflex as they appear confused about which upper wishbone bushes fit a TR4A! They sent ones with the holes too small, it then took 3 days for the right ones to arrive with same part numbers! Very confusing & time wasting).
Anyway, my workshop has replaced them ok but have put the lower wishbone pivot bolt the opposite way round to that shown in the parts book/workshop manual & any photos I have seen. In other words the castlelatted nut wth split pin faces the back of the car rather than the front. Does this matter? To me (& I assume my technician) it is more logical to be this way rather than the parts book/manual indication.
Regards,
Monty.
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Bob, many congratulations, and well done for getting another TR4 back on the road.
I well remember the thrilling feeling of the first legal drive when my ex California restored 4 went back on the road. However that was in the 1990s when you just had to turn up at the local Licencing office with the paperwork and pay a fee and they stamped the MOT, handwrote the age related number on top, gave you a free tax disc and off you went to buy the plates, with the V5 following by post. No inspection in those days. Can't say I envy you a shake down run in the type of traffic you describe. Just remember the brakes won't be bedded in!
How about a picture of all your hard work when it's got it's registration number ? I still get a kick out of driving mine all these years later, so you've got lots of fun to come.
All the best
Trevor.
Hi Bob,
Jolly well done! Having bought an ex California TR4A just over a year ago with everything restored previously & receipted I can see how much time & effort & cost you must have put into it. How frustrating that 'paperwork' always spoils things!
Anyway happy driving & we all look forward to seeing pictures or the actual car sometime soon.
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi Monty, if you dig into the TR6 forum, this subject was fully covered around 3-4 months ago including part nos, how to do etc.
Good hunting. If you have a problem, please let me know.
Dave
Thanks |Dave, found that ok & now have the check strap out & in my hand!
However it is all ok and the part that is broken is the kind of 'spring' thing that sits between the 2 rivets. (613855?)
What do I need to do here? Is there an alternative to refixing the 'spring' between new rivets as I am not confident about replacing the rivets!
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi Monty,
I have just purchased a couple of replacement door check straps. I'm not sure what style are yours but mine are the standard ones shown in the Moss 4A catalogue. Ref the fixing - Moss supply two bloody great pop rivets for each strap. They are long enough to hold the radiator together from the drivers door!!!!.
These pops would not pull down with a standard set of pop pliers and there is no way that the lazy tongue pullers will get in to the confined space. I assume that short 2BA, 10/32 mush-headed bolts/screws are required.
Roger
Thanks Roger, sounds a difficult one as I thought!
Do your part numbers correspond with those I gave?
Were you replacing thew check straps during restoration or on a running car?
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi All,
Just had a L/H door check strap break. Can somebody tell me how I go about replacing this item.
Although it is a TR4A it appears, according to the Moss parts book, that the restorer has fitted early TR4 check straps (part no: 613913).
No gaiter has been fitted & interestingly there are no screws securing the strap assembly to the A post & I am really not sure how it has been secured (welded during restoration from the inside?).
Is it possible or better to fit the later check strap listed as later TR4 & TR4A (Moss no: 613622) & how is it affixed?
Any help appreciated as usual.
Regards,
Monty.
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Thanks Ade, exactly what I thought.
I do not need to do the rack mounts as I have the solid rack mod.
Regards,
Monty.
I was advised not to as the polybushes are more squishy than the nylon. The nylon bushes and washers actually locate the lower arms very well. No problems so far!Make sure you do the rack mounts as well!
cheers
Adey
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Hi All again,
When fitting poly bushes has anybody also bothered to replace the nylon trunnion bushes with poly items?
Superflex list them but wondered if it was necessary as nylon ones are already in place as standard.
Regards,
Monty.
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Monty
The glib quick answer is not much, if you are only removing the "engine side " of the bulkhead heater hoses.
If you are not too fussed... just undo the clips and let the clean ? ( rusty more like ) water out, clearing up afterwards.
Alternatively...
Stuff an old bath towel under the hoses.Release the upper hose, attached to the control heater valve on top of the engine and temporarily plug with a suitable size bolt.With the top plugged, when you release the lower hose ( attached to the pipe running behind the block ,down the side of the engine to the front of the engine) very little water should be released.
You can then either catch the water in the lower pipe in a suitable small container or let the old towel soak up the water, when you release the bolt/ plug and thereby the pressure, holding the water in the pipes.
One the clips are loosened cut the old pipes off, if you prefer, rather than tug them off.Check your replacement hoses for fit/length before reaching for the Stanley knife.Put the clips on the new pipes and tighten slightly just short of their final position so that they don't fall off but are convenient to move and finally position.A light clean of the metal ends of the fixings is usually required, so a piece of emery paper would come in handy.A light smear of vaseline gets a tight pipe over the ends before firm clamping.
Good luck with it.
Bob
Thanks Bob, will give it a go!
Monty.
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The Moss unit will fit, because it's made for a TR. Use PTFE tape on the thread when you screw the new valve into position. Top-up the radiator with anti-freeze solution and run the engine gently with the heater valve fully open and the radiator cap removed until most of the air has been expelled, then top-up to the brim and put the cap on. Give the car a short run with the heater valve wide open, let the system cool down, then top-up again. You shouldn't suffer any air lock problems.
As you are going to have to remove the valve any way, you could disconnect the hose to the other end of the heater and flush out any detritus which may have accumulated in the heater over the years. You need a good flow of water, but NOT high pressure (full mains pressure is too high and could damage the heater). On my TR2 (in the early 1960s), I used to employ an old, manually-operated, garden spray pump for this job, because one can control the pressure so easily. It rejuvenated the heater each October, ready for the winter months!
Ian Cornish
On an associated point.
I would like to renew my heater hoses.
When I disconnect the two in the engine compartment how much water will I lose assuming the valve is closed?
Regards,
Monty.
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Hi All,
Considering putting poly bushes in the front suspension. Some advice please on best make & type to use & is it worth doing?
Is it advisable to do the rear also?
Many thanks,
Monty.
Removing the mechanical fan
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Not wishing to cause you more expense but I have always been led to believe that this conversion should have a damped pulley, as removing the original fan puts strain on the crank with cases of breakage being known. Surprised though that Revington (who are supposed to know everything) have supplied an undamped pulley if this scenario is true!