monty
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Posts posted by monty
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Be different & get one like this!
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A week ago we went for afternoon tea & then finished off by attending the monthly classics gathering @ Kineton Sports & Social Club near Stratford. A very nice gathering with many cars & bikes in glorious sunshine with a bar, burgers etc & a very friendly atmosphere all round! Well worth a visit on the 1st Thursday of each month.
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On 5/11/2022 at 9:27 AM, Bfg said:
As Hamish say, no it doesn't matter where you fit the sensor switch as, for all practical purposes, the oil pressure is much the same within the oil-galleries of a small engine, including up its pipe to the oil gauge, &/or within an oil cooler.
< here > is the way I fitted this kit into Katie, taking the (switched power) feed from the fuse box to the lamp. That lamp of course illuminates when the lamp's electrical circuit (via the wire to the switch) is earthed by that switch.
Pete
Many thanks Pete, my unit is on its way.
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42 minutes ago, Hamish said:
I used a ignition switched live to the light then to the oil pressure switch and on to earth. Thus the oil pressure switch is “on” until the pressure triggers the switch to turn off the light.
this may help ? (But I have changed the led to a much brighter one see the link above)
Thanks again Hamish. I vaguely remember fitting this same switch to a previous TR but do not remember needing a live feed such as you have done from your volt meter. I now however cannot recall (the age thing!) how I wired it up! Just thought I took wires from the 2 switch spades to the led?
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1 minute ago, Hamish said:
No, you can use any. I started out fitting mine to the front and it worked well. It’s on the rear with the new engine.
Thanks for that Hamish. With regard to wiring, is it just a matter of one wire to earth & the other direct to the led/bulb?
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On 5/6/2022 at 11:36 AM, Bfg said:
Thanks again Gents, Just ordered the TR Enterprise kit < here >.
It cost £41 + postage = £51+ but then I guess the adapter from UNC to the fine thread of the switch is custom made, so really quite fair value ..and certainly very much cheaper than the damage which may be avoided if the engine did suddenly dump it's oil ..and I saw & immediately responded to the warning light.
It's pressure is pre-set at 25psi, and so the lamp flashing at tick-over ought not be an issue. Now that I've rebuilt the oil pump, Katie's engine when hot and ticking-over around 800rpm, reads an oil pressure of around 45psi. It still sounds like a tractor though !
Pete
Does it matter which location on the engine block is used for this switch/adapter fitting? I am favouring the one @ the front next to the dipstick as it appears the easiest to get to!
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On 10/8/2021 at 1:37 PM, Drewmotty said:
I jack the front of the car up as high as I dare to fill the rad then lower it to the ground before running the engine with the cap removed. Once thermostat opens run it for another couple of minutes prior to topping up and fitting the cap. I then take it for a short run and let it cool before checking the level and topping it up again.
As Roger said unscrew the block drain tap and sort it out on the bench. A bit of poking and maybe some running with a flushing agent generally gets some flow from the block drain port. If not either refit the tap and forget about it or if you’re bored and wallowing in cash strip the engine and get the block tanked.Hi Drewmotty, assuming the tap is forgotten what is your system of trying to flush the block?
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2 hours ago, Z320 said:
Are you prepared for another opinion?
In my opinion all worries about an airlocks are needless,
you can’t compare an engine cooling system with a „toy“ house heating system.
A car’s water pump is a M-O-N-S-T-E-R and blows all air out and keeps it in the flow.
I regard nothing about air in the system - I just take care to keep enough of it in there!
You can poke the drain hole by the 4 th cylinder free to drain it, like I did for dismantling the liners out of my engine some years ago.
Pulling the liners I anyway found coolant remaining there and the gap between the liners and engine housing filled up with rust sediment solid like concrete.
In my opinion poking the hole free causes not very much.
Finally: if you had no coolant problems - what do you worry?
Ciao, Marco
Hi Marco,
Cooling system has always been good, electric fan kicks in when it should etc but have not changed the anti freeze for some while so thought I would just drain, flush & refill. Did not want a major dismantling session if it could be avoided so will drain the rad, disconnect hoses & see what comes out. Last time I did it, some years ago, all I got out was pale blue anti freeze/water & no muck at all! A waste of time really but it is old anti freeze in there so…?
Glad I bought one of your locking caps Marco with the price & shortages of fuel these days!
Cheers. -
38 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi Monty,
It should be possible to unwind the block drain cock and replace with a decent one.
Clear the local internals with a wire coat hanger.
I normally top up the system (before draining) with something like RadFlush and run the engine for a number of hours.
Then drain and rinse out with a hose in both directions.
Then fill with 50% Bluecol etc
Roger
Hi Roger, As the block drain cock has been like it for years I am loath to try & force it in case of breakage in the block plus it is awkward to get at with manifolds etc. Definitely Radflush & Bluecol though. No sign of overheating for years even on a track day yesterday! I was just worried about the airlock situation that I once had in the past with lack of real heat from the heater.
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I think it about time to drain the cooling system & put in some fresh anti freeze. The block drain plug is seized up closed so I can only drain by removing the bottom rad hose. What are peoples methods to drain & flush the system without getting any air locks?
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On 9/17/2021 at 9:18 AM, stuart said:
Its the R number you need to check for, minimum R9 but my preference and what I fit is R14.
Stuart.
Stuart, reading various posts I get the impression that R14 is the low pressure version (not suitable for injected cars) of R9 which is a high pressure hose for injected cars & presumably ok for carbs. Getting confused now & worried about the reading of some makes of hose failing. Can you recommend something?
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Decided to order some ethanol resistant fuel hose from Merlin Motorsport & wondered what people’s preferences or recommendations are. Standard reinforced rubber fuel hose ok to +50 degrees, a higher spec rubber hose to +125 degrees or probably my preference of fabric braided rated to +60 degrees. All are at least E10 rated & to the din73379 spec for use with fuels.
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Just been given an LED 3rd brake light with 2 wires from it for connection. Is it just a matter of connecting say the red wire from it to one of the existing stop light wires in the boot (which colour?) & the black wire from the unit to earth?
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We are all in the same situation I guess. Cannot take the cars out for a run to warm everything up etc so what are people's thoughts about just starting up the cars @ home say once a month without a good run? I have always been lead to believe that it is not really a good idea just cold starting without a decent run to circulate things but of course we cannot do this. Better to just leave the car locked away or start up & run the engine for a while?
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As I thought it may be the last chance to take a pleasure drive for a long time, I gave both TR's a run of around 30 miles on a glorious Gloucestershire day that felt there was not a care in the World. Did the runs solo & talked to nobody! A couple of great drives with both cars perfectly on song, weather great but an awful situation hanging over all of us. Take care everybody & stay safe & well.
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2 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Monty,
This looks very similar to the one fited to my 4A. It has an M12 thread
Who are Green SP
Roger
Green Spark Plug company. Usually quite good for spares but when I quoted the item you suggested on EBay they said it would not fit! I will try the one from Intermotor. If it fitted yours it should fit mine!
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On 6 February 2020 at 4:43 PM, RogerH said:
Hi Monty,
the TR4 is a pressure switch fitted in the 4 way pipe run down near the exhaust manifold. The pressure switches in this position is a disaster.
Fit the mechanical switch to the master cylinder box as per the 4A
Roger
Hi Roger, Just been in touch with Green SP & they say that switch does not fit a Tr4/4A! I am now a little confused! Moss do a metal one 13H3735X & Rimmers only do the plastic thing 134529. Can you give me the part number & supplier of the metal unit you have successfully fitted? Regards.
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2 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Monty,
the TR4 is a pressure switch fitted in the 4 way pipe run down near the exhaust manifold. The pressure switches in this position is a disaster.
Fit the mechanical switch to the master cylinder box as per the 4A
Roger
My Tr4 has the mechanical switch fitted as my 4A so the previous owner must have done the modification. On that basis I assume the better quality metal switch will fit either car.
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20 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Monty,
forget those tatty plastic switches. These work well https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Light-Switch-Lucas-SMB429-Replaces-1368786-61311350645-61311368786/323906263730?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW&epid=1526775063&hash=item4b6a515ab2:g:gJgAAOSwOXBdm2OJ
Roger
Just a thought Roger. Does that switch fit all TR4 as well as TR4A? Didn't they change the switch type during TR4 production?
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A similar business, Thornley Kelham here in Gloucestershire, are usually looking for similar people.
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19 hours ago, brenda said:
Monty, if you go into the club shop there is sq and round window stickers
Mike Redrose Group
Thanks Mike.
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31 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi Monty,
forget those tatty plastic switches. These work well https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Light-Switch-Lucas-SMB429-Replaces-1368786-61311350645-61311368786/323906263730?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW&epid=1526775063&hash=item4b6a515ab2:g:gJgAAOSwOXBdm2OJ
Roger
Exactly what I was going to buy tomorrow Roger! It was just that I had a spare tatty plastic switch in the spares box & needed to fit it quickly in order to do the drive out! A new quality item will be fitted ASAP.
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Pay the extra & go for the quality Timken bearing from a proper bearing supplier. If we keep buying this cheap rubbish we will get what we deserve. Just replaced today yet another stop light switch supplied by Moss which lasted a couple of months! Just junk! I bought my Timken bearings a couple of years ago from Bearing- King in Sheffield @ £48.
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Are there any plans for a similar design window sticker?
Key Ring / Key Fob
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Thanks Mick, hadn’t thought of that! Will take great care! The plus points are that I have a hidden fuel cutout which means the scumbag will get a short way down the road until the car grinds to a halt & leaves him stranded, plus a battery cutoff, alarm with warning light, tracker & the usual steering wheel & handbrake immobiliser devices if required & a wife who seems to have eyes in the back of her head!
I have always thought the best anti-theft device was ‘The Rear End Immobiliser’, a simple device of a sharp metal spike under the drivers seat programmed to only recognise the owners rear end but shoots upwards through the said seat on non recognition! Still needs perfecting!
Cheers.