stuart
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Posts posted by stuart
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2 hours ago, Phil Read said:
My 250 which was one of the last made has a j type over drive. overdrive on 3&4 dont know if this was a later replacement but its very smooth.
Definitely a later replacement box. "A" types continued through TR6 production until introduction of the CR model late 72.
Stuart.
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I would go with over enthusiastic greasing too, seen it a few times, remove linings and clean everything up wash linings off in petrol and allow to dry off in the sun then refit and do a few miles and then check again. If you again have grease then yes the seal will need replacing as described by Peter above.
Stuart.
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15 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Your car is a TR3A. You seem to have a hood stick cover with the longer ears that goes on TR2 and 3.
Skinner do make the right one for your car. Here is a photo from their web page
The fit of that isnt a good advert
Stuart.
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If the body has been restored correctly using the chassis as a jig then you should already know the amount and location of the body shims. Get the chassis up on stands and level front to back and side to side, glue the shims to the chassis mounts and the rubbing strips along the chassis legs and then drop the body on loose fit all the body bolts and then pull them down like you would a cylinder head. However if you havent already worked out shim numbers and position then good luck getting anything to fit.
Stuart.
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I have loads of the lift the dot fasteners for hoods and tonneaus if you need any.
Stuart.
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2 minutes ago, marki said:
Both of these are now bottoming out, could the thread be too long ?
Check you PM
Stuart.
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2 hours ago, MJK said:
Over the Winter, I took the plunge and went ahead with the installation of an overdrive unit to my TR5. Now, after driving it for about 50 miles, I'm delighted with how it improves the driving experience but want to ask about the best way to use it.
I am told by a friend who has a Healey 3000 (also an A type O/D, I think) that depressing the clutch when operating the O/D switch would be beneficial as it reduces the potential for jerking and stress/wear to the transmission in general.
Are there the views on the forum as to whether depressing the clutch when changing O/D gearing is advisable or any other tips on looking after the unit with careful use?
All comments appreciated.
Best regards,
Malcolm
That sounds a typical Healey owners driving style and explains why when I used to restore them back more than 30 years ago every single overdrive unit need rebuilding.
When changing up into overdrive keep your foot down on the throttle and do not touch the clutch. Same when changing down out of overdrive. Obviously when changing up you need more throttle to cope with higher gear and when changing down you need more revs to maintain the same speed in a lower gear.
Stuart.
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9 minutes ago, marki said:
Hi All
just starting to fit my Surrey soft top and I’m struggling to work it all out, could someone post a video or send me a link to one that shows how the front lip goes in. Does it just push under the front capping?
Cheers MarkYes it does push in, you do need to make sure all three pieces are well home and then fit the two outer poppers. You may find the front lip needs a bit of gentle easing upwards to get the it in properly.
Youve also got the frame up too high, do the nuts up on the rear bars right in to the end of the thread so the frame sinks down also if its the first time its been fitted then a fan heater facing up between the seats to warm it up will help. You also dont seem to have the rear bar in the soft section either.
Stuart..
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31 minutes ago, Phil Read said:
Thanks for the info guys. I had to tsake both manifolds off as it has a sports exhaust. Working on mty back I managed to get the starter off, the top bolt was a bit tricky but and slow but I managed. The problem with the old starter is that the split pin has dissapeared from the end and the large spring is missing, I assume its dropped into the bell housing. although the engine turns freely I suspect its and engine out job to retieve it. meanwhile I will look for a second hand starter motor. I intend to give the engine an overhaul late summer but the boss wants to go to the "heartbeat" rally in it at the end of June as the car was in several episodes.
Take the cover plate off the front of the box underneath and see if you can see anything under the flywheel.
Stuart.
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Possibly dry input shaft where it goes through the driven plate.
Stuart.
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1 hour ago, Phil H 4 said:
Thanks Peter, I'll look into the springs.
Hi Stuart,
The pins are 1/4" correct for the callipers ( original not replaced ) so I don't understand , as I see it I don't need smaller pins.
Phil
No you need the right pads for those pins.
Stuart.
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You need the correct pads with the right size holes to suit the smaller pins.
Stuart.
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15 hours ago, RobH said:
No need for drastic measures to clean it out - it's basically just neat antifreeze so residue will do no harm and will readily mix with the new coolant .
It will need a good flush Im afraid as its very slippery and you do need to get it out of the heater.
Stuart.
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Your parts price will now have to support all these peoples salaries too https://www.radialequity.com/team
Stuart.
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Interesting, I was talking to Jeff Marks from Moss last week and he had to cut the call short as he was expected in a meeting, I suspect this is what it was all about.
Sadly a lot of the suppliers that have been noted as being independent buy a lot of their parts from Moss already, I suspect Loukas at TR Shop wont be too happy about this.
As to the new conglomerate investing in new products I suspect it`ll mean the opposite as they wont be interested in slow moving specialist parts and the prices will definitely rise.
Not quite the same but the big conglomerates have moved into the animal business taking over vet practices all over the country and the prices have gone through the roof and in consequence insurance cost have spiralled too.
Stuart.
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18 minutes ago, JohnG said:
Gents
A question
That would be 'Black Japanned' wouldn't it, or am I on the wrong page . . . .again?
You are correct. Obviously translation differs.
Stuart.
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1 minute ago, Lebro said:
I must be lucky, I can get a spanner on it (in the standard upper position) from the engine side.
But I do have a T2000 gearbox, which has pushed the engine forward a bit.
Click on to enlarge image
Bob
Loads of room!
Stuart.
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When the hitorque starters first came out I fitted one to a 6 and the owner flatly refused to let me take the g/box cover off as it had a really nice cream interior
so I managed to get the top nut on using a couple of long 1/4" drive extensions and a wobbly socket going over the side of the gear box from behind! It was a real fiddle but I managed it in the end. I would not do it like that again!
Stuart.
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Manifolds set level and synced?
Stuart.
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2 hours ago, michaelfinnis said:
Seems a bit excessive to change every service. Workshop manual says clean with petrol.
Mike
Well they arent expensive then you know theyre clean. Most havent been touched for years and are clogged right up.
Stuart.
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1 hour ago, Garry488 said:
Hi
Could I get some advise with fitting the rubber seal into the channel of soft top front please
Any special tools ?
Blunt screwdriver is favourite, get one side of the "T" in the channel and then prise the other side in a bit at a time. Best start in the middle and work out wards, your hands will be aching for ages afterwards
Stuart.
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16 minutes ago, kevinfryer said:
Thanks for the response to date. When cleaning the flame trap would you use Petrol or Break Cleaner
They are a service item change it when you change your oil.
Stuart.
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Dont its snake oil, and flammable under pressure hence banned for racing. Ordinary antifreeze (Blue) works perfectly well.
Stuart.
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11 hours ago, RMP NC said:
Rimmer Bros sells these as fitting TR4-250. I have a set and for the life of me do not see how one gets these to work with a TR4. A TR4A I can see with the more vertical dash support but a TR4, no way.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200829
Anyone put these in a TR4 with the original curved dash support like my picture? Am I missing something?
Sadly they wouldnt fit on a TR4 without major modification. Probably easier to make your own.
Stuart.
Grease in Rear Brake Drum
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I do have the right Churchill tool to pull the hubs but even with that theyre a struggle.
Stuart.