Jump to content

Adrian Lawton

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Adrian Lawton

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Newark

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yes please Roy if you still have them.
  2. Roy, I've PM'd you,

    Adrian

  3. Thanks guys, will look at racetorations ones and maybe type 2 from RB.
  4. Had the Armstrong dampers replaced a good few years ago with the Rimmer's type 1 conversion kit (done by a TR specialist in Lincoln) but I have never really been happy with the top shock anchors fitted to the brackets bolted to the rear wheel arch. My concerns maybe unfounded but I feel that there is strain, if that's the right word, placed on the rear body that may be the cause of an annoying squeak from the rear of simple just stressing the metal around welds etc. I am thinking of swapping to the type 2 brackets that fit to the chassis. Anybody done that and what was it like or are my fears unfounded due to Covid-19!! thanks Adrian
  5. Thanks Mike, I've started again loading the oldest first and working up to today. Plenty of time to complete it.
  6. Having loads of time now that we are in lockdown I've decided to move my group photographs from Flicker (who now want to charge for more pics) to the Gallery page on our local group page. All goes well except that I uploaded my albums not in chronological order so the first album is 2018! Is there a way to change the order so that the most recent comes first and the older ones behind them. It seems to sort them by latest uploaded so if you load 1956 pictures today they will be at the top of the list. My fault I know for not realising that. Obvious answer is to delete them all and start again in the right order. Stay Safe!
  7. Following the advice on this thread just bought off fleabay an MGF blocker for £49 including brackets. I know this is an old post but did you make the brackets out of flat bar, and if so what thickness. If not where did you get new ones from. I'm a bit limited on the fabrication front I'm afraid!
  8. Did find this on YouTube Seems the special tool is a hammer and screwdriver as per normal!!! Jump to 2 minute mark (yes I know it's a Midget but the lock's the same) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPK3fQ-IlDM
  9. Probably been asked 9 million times before but I'm trying to remove a door lock without success. I have tried all sorts to compress the "tongues" but can't get on one side of the lock (obviously all from behind). The manual just helpfully says "using a suitable tool". Any idea what this tool is or looks like????
  10. Grum, Just had a new Mohair Hood fitted and the frame refurbished and powder coated with new seals and velcro etc. It looks really smart and an excellent taut fit. The hood was bought from Don Hoods and cost £369.50 exc. VAT. I confess I didn't fit it myself but had my local Triumph specialist fit it and it was worth it. I did spend more than I thought as I had the frame refurbed because it was bent and the rivets were all worn but as I will not be replacing the hood in my lifetime I bit the bullet.
  11. Finally sussed what was wrong. 10v regulator had failed. Swapped it for a Rimmers special and hey presto temp gauge registering and voltmeter registering 10v and fuel gauge reading. It's clear that the 12v gauge is being incorrectly fed from the 2nd 10 supply designed to go to the fuel gauge and the fuel gauge supplied by the 12v supply meant for the voltmeter - with me so far. Set about trying to correct the miss-connection and after two hours of hand scrapping, frozen shoulder and bad back from lying prone in the footwell even after taking the Tacho out to see if I could reach, I gave up. In can live with an errant voltmeter and over the 14 years of owning the car have got used to the quirky operation of the fuel gauge. If I ever feel the urge to rip out the dash and everything behind it I might sort it out - but life's too short to worry about a couple of volts going walk about I guess. thanks for all your words of wisdom guys.
  12. Thanks Guys, It was the 10v regulator after all. Checked it out and no output? Can't explain why the fuel gauge was working without 10v. I suspect that it is being fed with 12v from somewhere - god knows where!
  13. My temp gauge and voltmeter have stopped reading for some reason. I changed the temperature bulb on the thermostat housing with no success. I shorted the connector to earth which should send the gauge to max reading ( zero ohms so max current) but no movement. I did think that the 10v regulated instrument supply might have gone but the petrol gauge reads normally (well in it's usual rubbish way!). I had thought the voltmeter was direct off the ignition switch so maybe it's just coincidence or TR6 gremlins again. Any ideas before I take the gauges out of the dash?
  14. Thanks guys, yep no wavy washer - off to Rimmers in the morning.
  15. I have an ex US car and it had the amber front running lights. I just removed the feed to the 5w bulbs and as it's a late spec car it already had the pilot light in the headlight for the side lights. Never any problems with the MOT.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.