ChrisR-4A
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Posts posted by ChrisR-4A
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Hi Jim, ref the slip, was the overdrive unit fully reconditioned? If the slip is more of a slurr as the overdrive engages, mine can take a couple of seconds if actuated at over 65mph, but is instant at under 55 on a light throttle It's been like this for the last 10 years and I intend to leave it until I have to remove the gearbox or engine for something else. I checked with one of the overdrive specialists at the International and they said my O/D cone clutch was probably worn but could continue to work as it is for a long time as long as the slip did not bother me.
Chris
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Hi Dave, I replaced the rockers and shaft on my 4A in 2005 and the cost was just under £90. I would not bother trying to reface the old rockers as the case hardening is fairly shallow and if there is a big step you are probably through it allready. The longest part of the job was removing the protecting grease (more like Tar) from 4 of the rockers which were very old stock". One thing I should have bought was the 2 roll pins which go either end of the shaft as new ones are much easier to fit than the ones you push out. Have only had to adjust the rockers once since and have done over 24,000 miles.
Chris
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Hi Kevin, have a look at the gap between the wheel boss and the fixed part of the column below it. This gap needs to be a minimum of about 2mm to avoid the horn sounding when the column is depressed, these two parts must not touch.To increase the gap release the clamp on the column under the bonnet ( the one with two bolts one side and a grub screw and locking nut the other) and move the wheel away from the fixed column the desired distance. Make sure you retighten the clamp (see further details in the workshop manual).
Best Regards Chris
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Hi, the best and easiest solution is to run a pipe from the rocker cover over the top of the carbs and down past the chassis rail with a tie wrap to hold it in place. My 4A has run like this for 11 years with no problems, in fact if you want to provide even more venting to the engine then why not remove the core plug down by the fuel pump and fit the crankcase breather pipe as per the TR4. My car also has this mod and has passed 11 MOTS with no comments. Used samples of TR4 crankcase breather pipes are normally available used from the usual sources at a very reasonable cost. I would give the venting through the air filters a miss as although this may work fine on a newish motor it can play havoc with the moxture settings on an old engine.
Chris
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Hi, my 4.5 chrome wires with s/s spokes (MWS) are 8 years old now and have done nearly 40,000 miles. I have found the best tyre size is the original spec 165/80/15, mine are firestone F560's. Last year I did find a couple of broken spokes, probably due to Essex Potholes but these I replaced myself as the wheels are not tubeless.
I have recently done a Tour of Brittany 1550 miles and all spokes are ok. Maybe someone can advise what happens when you break a spoke in a tubeless wheel, how do you remove a spoke and nipple without breaking the airseal?
For cleaning I use AutoGlym wheel cleaner, the bottle with the blue label which says "suitable for chrome wheels".
Chris
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Hi Peter, I had an extra filter a few years back, it was the glass tube type and although it looked clean the mesh had closed up, maybe due to unleaded fuel, anyway the only way to be sure is to take it off and try blowing through it. To check the mechanical pump at cranking speed it should deliver about an eggcup full of fuel at each pulse or half fill a jamjar in 6/7 secs. If this all seems ok remove the rocker cover and check all valve clearances are at least at or above the minimum.
Hope this helps.
Chris
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Hi Trev, if this only happens in reverse and you have an overdrive it is probably the O/D operating lever needing adjustment, or it is stuck leaving the OD engaged. The same thing happened to me after adjusting the O/D incorrectly,a re-adjustment fixed it with no damage done.
Chris
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Hi David, the symtoms could be dirt in the actuator indent but the moving of the gearlever 100+ times should have at least improved it.
Before you take the cover off, you mention the lever vibrates, is the plunger and spring still in the bottom of the lever? If not or if it is broken then this can be replaced by taking the gear lever out. Search the forum as there are other threads on the easiest way to fit a new plunger and spring.
Chris
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4th gear overdrive seems fine, but when I engage O/D in 3rd, it seems to jump in then out repeatedly. Intermittently of course !!
Can anyone advise on this please?
David
Hi David,if the cause is a build up of debris in the selector rod indent then this can sometimes be fixed as follows.
With the engine switched off move the gear lever between 3rd and 4th about 100 times, ------ then try it with the ignition on and overdrive switch on(but still without the engine running) and see if you can hear the solenoid switching in and out as you go between neutral and third.
I have fixed a similar problem on two cars when this happened in 4th gear but not third. It sure beats trying this before you take the tunnel off!
Best Regards Chris
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Hi Mike,
I agree, the most efficient place for the fan is on the engine side sucking, but top efficiency is only achieved if a suitable cowl is used which covers the full width of the Rad and as much of the height as possible. On vehicles which run at slow speeds like Tractors (which I worked with for 30 years) the cowls are sealed with foam/rubber strips where they meet the Rad; this creates a venturi effect which increases the airflow and at higher speeds the load is taken off the fan motor and current draw reduces.
On my 4A I have a fan and cowl from a Fiesta XR2 which was selected because the cowl is the same width as a TR Rad, it's been on the car over 10 years now and only comes on when in slow moving or stationary traffic after fast running.
Chris
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Hi, welcome to the Forum; when you had the head off did you notice if the head gasket matched the bores? If the bore is oversize I think 88mm or above is the critical dimension when a solid gasket must be used which matches the bore diameter, if it overlaps into the combustion space then it will create a hotspot which will cause the engine to run on.
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Hi Lee, I assume you have the correct thin nuts to hold the wire wheel adaptors to the hub and if so it is well worth investing in a full 6 point socket as it is easy to round off the thin nuts and they do need to be really tight.
I would do a trial assembly with a piece of thin card, like a postcard behind the wheel as a little clearance is desireable.
It is imperative that the wire wheel is sitting on the rear taper when the spinner is initally tightened with the wheel off the ground, if any of the studs do prevent seating the result could be a wheel coming off!
Ideally I would cut the studs virtually flush with the nuts and then dress with a grinder, unless of course you have a lathe to hand.
I you decide to refit standard wheels then a new set of studs are not too expensive.
Chris
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Adrian, when you fitted the poly bushes did you remove the brackets which mount the swinging arms to the chassis because if these were swapped over, (inner to outer) then this would increase the ride height and you would also notice a change in the rear wheel camber.
Re shocks, I have 3 point fixing brackets and Konis on my 4A, set as supplied (lowest setting) and they are a considerable improvement over the lever arms. Some of the latest lever arm units have been found to be so weak as to be virtually useless so for this reason alone changing to teles is a good move especially as they are much easier to remove if req.
Chris
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Hi Ian,
as many of the UJs available today are sealed with no facillity for fitting gease nipples I wonder if anyone has experience or evidence that the greaseable ones last longer.
Having said that I would still fit greasable ones to the inner joints and the propshaft, but even with these and a standard hand operated gun how often do you see grease coming out of all 4 bearings.
Sometimes with a garage pressure greaser this is possible but it only takes a couple of needle rollers to go dry in the joint and it won't last long.
If you keep removing the shafts to grease the UJs you will probably end up with some stripped hub retaining studs. These are best left alone once fitted correctly and torqued up with new nyloc nuts.
Good Luck Chris
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Take it from someone who has spent over 30 years working for Fords and then Fiat before retirement 3 years ago, there was only one reason for the space saver tyre and later the can of "Goo" and that was to save money and maximize the profits for the company.
Many cars, Mazda RX8 for example supply no spare tyre, but surprise surprise, you can buy one from them as an extra for a not unsubstancial sum.
Previous comments regarding problems with the "Goo" are valid -avoid at all costs.
The best solution is to use a boot rack or carry less baggage and use the laundry service available in most good Hotels.
However if most cars were fitted with tyres similar to the original size then space may not be at a premium.
Having used tyres from 185 down to my current 165 profile I question the advantage especially on cars used for long distance touring.
Best Regards Chris
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Not sure what a dog bolt is, but if you mean the bolt holding the pulley to the crankshaft, I used a socket on a short arm, wedged in position on the bolt and against the chassis, disconnected the ignition from coil and BRIEFLY fired the starter, worked a treat,
john
Thats ok if the bolt comes undone but if it does not somethings got to give and you could trash the starter motor or the ring gear. Ideally an impact wrench as used in tyre shops would be the way to go as this puts no strain on the crank or gearbox. I have an electric wrench but I expect the power you need will mean a compressed air one.
Chris
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Hi Kristof.
I fitted one of the aftermarket servos to my 4A about 6 years ago and wondered why I had not done so sooner. Fitting is straight forward and for the vacuum take off I used the hole in the inlet manifold where the recirculating breather valve normally plumbs in, as I threw that away long ago and vent the rocker cover via a piece of 1/2ins rubber hose over the top of the carbs and then down to just below the chassis rail.
Re electronic ignition, if you acquire a spare distributor top plate you can carry that in the boot all set up with points and a condenser ready to bolt back on if the Magnetronic or whaterver you choose happens to fail. Mine is 8 years old and still going strong.
Best Regards Chris
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Hi Alec
I beg to differ a ringer is that a vehicles identity has been altered not necessarily stolen. What you have suggested on this topic is illegal, immoral and should not be endorsed.
Neil
Hi Neil,
I do not think it is illegal but in some instances it could be considered immoral, as is selling parts which a supplier knows full well are not of the customers expected quality, are not fit for purpose or are such a bad fit that the average owner will find them useless.
If I saw a car ( 4a or 6 for ex) for sale and advertised as "original uk Car" I would not expect it to have a complete US import body and chassis fitted and only a chassis number stamped on a new vin plate remaining to link it to the original car. However the history of the car as supplied by the seller should show work undertaken and it is up to the buyer of a Classic to ask the right questions and draw there own conclusions.
There are many immoral practices in this modern world, and many "Triggers Brooms" it has been said before but "Caveat Emptor"
Chris
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Hi Darren, my 4A had a leak from the rear seal and I put up with it for 2 years, checking the oil level before a long trip, and finally fixed it when the box was out to fit a new clutch.
To facillitate easy top ups it's worth cutting a hole, (about2"dia) in the side of the trans trim cover, so top up can be done from inside the car by removing a suitable bung. Takes about 5mins to check and all you need is level ground. To undo the level plug I use a 3" long 3/8 extension turned round with the square female fitting over the square plug which may need slightly fileing down to fit. I then welded a socket to the other end of the extension to drive it.
Make the plug a close fit and it won't drop off as you remove it into the car footwell.
Chris
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Hi John, there is one other thing you could look at once the chassis shimming has been fixed, that is adding shims to the door hinges.
Assuming that the worst gaps are only at the rear of the door then it is possible to add shims to the hinges and therefore move the door back 3 or 4 mm.
It's a case of trial and error, but by varying the shims top and bottom it is possible to make considerable improvements.
I often wonder if most of the cars I see with the "perfect" (2mm) gaps all round have all been fiddled by lead loading, looks ok at a car show but how durable is it for a 5000 miles a year club car?
Chris
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Hi Andy, to stop the fuel flow I remove the rubber hose and push a 5/16 rod or drill into it and re tighten the clamp. Don't forget to remove the round flat brass filter and wash it out. Don't trust your eyes to check the plastic filter, take it off and try blowing through it, one let me down some years ago.
To check the flow from the pump remove the fuel hose from the carbs and place it in a jam jar, crank the engine for about 3-5secs and you should have 1.5-2 inches of fuel in the jar.
Chris
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Hi Andy, have you tried replacing the ignition module with some standard points, I have heard of two of these electronic units failing recently, but only partially and still allowing the engine to run but with much reduced power.
Chris
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North Hants Tyres are just along the road from me ..... very good company to deal with.
I can also recommend Mytyres,
http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco...7&s_p=index
Their prices include delivery which for my Firestones was 2 days. I went for the 165xR15 as I have 4.5" wires and they suit the wheel size, I previously had the Vredestein
185s but they were really too wide for the rims and did not improve the handling.
Chris
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I agree with Roger, and would add to make sure you have the type with the third fixing on the bump stop as this triangulates the mounting and strenghtens the chassis/rear diff bridge whereas the 2 bolt version puts addional strain on it. I have so far had to weld up two rear cross members as they tend to crack where they meet the top of the chassis on the outside.
Although on a new or very good condition chassis there may be no problems if you have the 2 bolt type it is still worth adding a small bracket (see photo below) to bridge the existing mount down to the bump stop.
Chris
PCV valve nobbling tickover - solution?
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi Nic, I removed the PCV assembly from my 4A over 10 years ago and vented the rocker cover with a plain piece of hose over the top of the carbs and down to just past the chassis, held there with a tie wrap. With ref to the aditional crankcase breather as used on a TR4, the hole to fit this is still there on a 4A but is pluged with a core plug. I removed my core plug while engine was still in car, a bit of a fiddle and fitted the breather pipe off a TR4 purchased second hand from one of the TR breakers. This setup works fine and always passes the MOT.
Chris