ChrisR-4A
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Posts posted by ChrisR-4A
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I had the same problem about 6 years ago, tried everything to slide the rubber into the channel on the front of the hood frame. In the end I started at one end pushed one side of the rubber into the channel and worked the other side in a 1/4 inch at a time using a spray of WD 40 to help it.
WD 40 is an old trick used on push bike handle grips as it acts as a lubricant but within 24 hrs it evaporates and leaves the grips tight on the bars.
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Richard,
See this thread and use the Hagerty Classic Car Valuation Tool, it's fairly accurate: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/42173-hagerty-classic-car-valuation-tool/
Cheers
Andrew[/quote
Tried this out and it's surprisingly accurate and upto date, one comment , cars they rate as "Fair" are now as rare as Hens Teeth and those they rate "Good" Are now difficult to find within the price range given.
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Hi Richard, depends what you define as expensive, parts alone are so expensive today that any car under £15k could easily cost you half that again in the first year or two even if you do a lot of the basic stuff yourself.
For a very good car even TR 6 s are £15k+ today and a very good TR4A,
with at least a repaired strengthened chassis, good door, bonnet and boot gaps and a fairly recent correctly rebuilt engine gearbox and rear axle is not going to be under £18k and more than likely over £20k.
A fully chassis off rebuild with all the above is going to be £20-£30 k as it would cost you this sort of money to rebuild one properly yourself.
Whatever you decide to do don't settle for less than very good door gaps as these usually require a full rebuild to correct.
Good luck with your search.
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I still have standard seats but I have tried Mx5 seats and new TR6 style as available from some main suppliers. The MX5 seats are better for comfort and looks than the new TR6 style replacements . For MX5 depending which brackets are used they can end up higher than standard and the steering wheel if set forward will be resting on your legs, and I am only 5ft 8 tall !
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Moss do a pack of stronger springs for the centrifugal advance. Cheaper than a can of booster and very effective. Start with the first two thicker than what you have now and increase if necessary . Worked well for me on the 4 pot but I am sure the Dist Doc would do even better.
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I tried it like the WM says without the felt or grease, first rather tight then again just nipped tight and back off to first split pin hole and marked with paint, pull hub off fit seal and grease bearings then repeated setting and still had feel and marked pin hole aligned ok, rotated freely with no play .
Whilst at my local friendly Triumph engineers today I mentioned front bearing seals and he said there too thick we cut them nearly in half, but what can you do that's parts today.
That's good enough for me.
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Hi Norman, I did my bearing today and found similar to you re felt a bit thick. I tried compressing the felt and retainer in a vice between two bits of wood and it will compress to the required size but with excessive pressure which I think would result in pulling the felt off the retainer once on the car after which it would be next to useless as a dust/ water seal
So firstly I glued the felt into the retainer using evostick then whilst holding it between the pieces of wood with just the top 1/4 showing I removed approx 4mm of felt with a scalpel. It fitted to the car fine and is still thicker than the old seal which I removed.
Have been for 6 mile run and bearing is fine.
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Some waterpump castings are oversize and the pulley can scrape on it ,pull the pulley off and look for signs of rubbing. However my money's on the dynamo probably the front bearing.
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I just bought a bearing kit which is the same part no from Moss as one i had 12 months ago for the other side and it fitted ok. Can't measure the fitted one now but the new one is the same size as yours (12mm uncompressed)
Unless the supplier has changed the seal size I am expecting it to be ok when I fit it next week, I will post results.
Before anyone asks the bearings in the kit are by FHBC made in Korea and googling the company they are large and well known, MGB restorers use them as well.
The one I fitted last year has done over 4000 miles and has not needed any adjustment since fitting so they seem fine.
Silly question, have you got the seal the right way round, steel to bearing and felt to centre of car, and soaked in oil over night before fitting?
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Sounds like you have an air inballance from cold to hot.
As mentioned previously check the PVC valve, car will run better if you ditch this and run a tube from the rocker cover down just past the chassis. Disconnect the PVC and try it to check.
Also the gaskets, inlet manifold to head often let in air when cold, check the nuts, should be brass, if unsure re seal gaskets using wellseal or some modern stuff of choice.
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Hi Tom I have one listed in the Buy sell trade section. It's in good useable condition it's a cross box design with a single outlet which has a double skinned tailpiece welded on its all in stainless and it's £35 plus post.
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Thanks Roger for the choke tips, mine has needed doing ever since I replaced the springs on the carbs.
It's worse in winter with one hand on the gear lever and one hand holding the choke out to prevent it stalling as I negotiate the first 5 or 6 corners in the first 2 miles after I leave home.
Do you do exchange units?
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Have you got the correct depth cap on the rad, it may say the right poundage but some modern ones are too shallow so spring is not compressed and actual poundage is way too low. If purchased from one of our main suppliers then it should be ok but easy to try another one first.
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Reply now irrelevant
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Biggest problem in my experience with old looms is wires breaking off connectors especially around the regulator box and dynamo just due to fatigue and corrosion. If dash is not fitted then its a no brainer, fit new.
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Have been using a Magnetronic basic unit in my original 25D distributor for over 12 years and even with the new engine it runs fine with a gold Lucas sports coil. But just on case I carry a spare dist top plate set up with points and condenser which can be swapped in less than 15 mins but never need it so far. One thing I did change was the bob weight springs to suit unleaded fuel, no more pinking.
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Moss also do the green flexible hose by the metre but you have to talk to them to order it as at the moment it is only listed as a Spitfire part.
The rigid item is a pain.
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The rigid pipe Moss sends you can be worked to the right shape with a heat-gun. Gently! it will melt!!
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Has anyone mentioned the shock absorber mounting bolts, if not done up very tight the shocks can move randomly causing a clonk.
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Just change the studs, not very expensive compared to the cost of a set of wheels and not difficult to do.
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If it does turn out to be the manifold to head gasket and you fix it do check it again after 50 miles and then 100 and 200. I had to retighten mine 3 times when the engine was taking along time to warm up in the winter. Slight leak was making it run weak until hot when then due to expansion it would seal up ok.
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Hi John, I have a fairly new speedo on my 4A and I get a steady reading,
When speedo reads 66 TomTom says true 61, when speedo reads 80 TomTom says 72. When speedo reads 90 wife says ! !* * *? and I get a pain in my left arm!
I believe Triumph purposely set Speedos to read fast because if owners tried to go around travelling at a true 80 or 90 there would have been a lot more wrecked TRs.
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Hi Allan , when you say floor I assume you mean rear shelf which is directly above the diff pins. I guess you have a choice when diff pins go, either take the body off or Cut and fold a bit of the shelf up to gain access. Carpet can hide a multitude of sins.
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I am always worried about the 4A IRS diff mounts. These really are not up to the job and suffer fatigue if they have had a lot of use.
The crack runs from the centre pin and can leave it virtually free. Then it waggles in the cross-beam and this gets cracks.
All of this is impossible to see without dismantling or cutting a big hole in the floor. People really do this!
TR4 Rebuild
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Rosé joints are the modern equivalent of the old ball joints however for those who would like a quicker fix using the original ball joints try swapping them round and assembling so a different part of the ball is doing the moving and the worn part is in the plane which does not matter.
Anyway it worked for me and has been ok for 5 years but thanks Roger because if my balls work loose again I will have to look for this Joint where Rose Hangs out and see if she has the touch to fix them!