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Posts posted by ChrisR-4A
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Hi Rob, when lifting vulnerable items with a single point hoist, my experience is with Tractor Cabs and boat superstructures where spreader bars are used either in pairs or as a rectangular frame. As the word suggests they spread the load and do not have to be that strong as the forces are in compression
Chris
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Very neat job Bob, but wont you have to refit the bell mouths to new filters when you replace them every other service?
Chris
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Hi Tony two things confuse me, firstly in your photo the top half of the solenoid appears to be missing. Secondly if the car is positive earth then the wire to the solenoid coil will need to be the negative wire as the casing will be positive earthed through the mounting.
Chris
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Hi Andy, shortening the wires will at least get rid of the ends where corrosion creeps up from the bullets. Just make sure the part you crimp is cleaned up well.
I would use loomwrap tape, non adhesive to cover the loom as you can easily change the routing if needed. I would also leave the new female bullit connectors outside of the wrapping so they can be cleaned or replaced in the future without unwrapping the whole loom. I've replaced the female ones on my 4A twice in 24 years.
AES are a useful source of many parts www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk
Chris
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I ordered some rivets and webbing and both arrived today, took 3/4 days
Chris
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Hi Ian, I had the same problem and got round it by cutting some wooden wedges from a piece of 2x2 and gradually increased the size of the wedge so when placed on the sill and carefully closing the door it was held at the correct position. Then climbed in car from opposite side and reached/layed across to tighten bolts.
Chris
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35 minutes ago, Tom Boyd said:
It ought to be at that price but why bother with an oil cooler for road use.
My spin on kit came from Moss some years ago and has never leaked, and it cost about £200 less!
Chris
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Hi Mike, does your TomTom work OK that close to the speaker?I I had to move mine away from a CB speaker which was causing the GPS to become erratic.
Chris
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I had one of those glass filters fitted some years ago and when the engine started cutting out over 2000 rpm I eventually found it was the mesh of the filter which had closed up restricting the flow even though it looked clear and there was no debris present. I now use a sealed filter and change it every 2 years or about 8000 miles. Robsport do a good one as fitted to Stags by them at a reasonable price. Never check a filter with just a visual inspection, either take it off and try blowing through it or remove the fuel pipe from the carbs and check the flow by cranking and letting it pump into a jar.
Chris
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As Marco says, all the power on the 4a, except starter goes through the ammeter, but the terminals on the ammeter are not easily accessible without taking the glove box out and pulling the ammeter forwards after removing its fixing bracket. Because of this the ammeter gets no maintenance and the terminals go rusty. Remove the heavy wires and give everything a good clean.
Chris
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Much of the discolouring is the result of exposure to UV light over many years, and is as far as I know a one way process.
If you do look for an alternative to the original radiator bottle do make sure it's at least as big as the original as up to 3/4 of its capacity is needed in V hot weather for coolant expansion. The alternative is to fit a remote header tank, and if you still want a smaller overflow bottle from that then a clear cycling water bottle is ideal.
Chris
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42 minutes ago, stillp said:
I had powder coated wire wheels on my car for about 10k miles with no sign of the coating failing.
The MWS wheels from TR Shop have chromed stainless steel spokes, and I believe the rims are stainless too.
Pete
It's only the spokes which are stainless on the standard wheels as sold by TR Shop although if you go to MWS website they do sell all SS wheels but they cost a fortune, nearly twice the price of chrome!
Chris
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Don Hoods do carpet sets although their basic sets don't have trimming on many of the edges and can frey over time. The more expensive wool ones are a lot better.
Chris
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OK Roger, the setting lever is on the RH side, but the lever which operates the solenoid is on the left. Both should move together and be in fully off position, the one on left down with the solenoid off.
Chris
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If there is no drive to the wheels with the car in gear then this is probably not related to a sticking clutch but could be an overdrive not fully disengaged. Check the operating lever on LH side of gearbox.
Chris
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I've had bad experience with a couple of Lincon batteries in the past so stick to Bosch now. They do a good 74 amp hr one which just fits a TR 4-6
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Hi Lee, its usually a problem with the bedix gear and the small spiral sleeve which it moves up and down on aided by the light spring (2 nd from left in photo) The sleeve is 5th part from left. All parts need to be clean and rust free with just a drop of graphite as Roger suggests or a smear of light oil.
Chris
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The centre laced wheel, image 1, has a flat flange area free of spokes near the outer edge, looks like the Boranni wires fitted to Ferarris. The wider the wheel the wider the flat flange.
The standard cross laced wheel image 2 has spokes near to the edge.
Both current types are tubeless ready.
Chris
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Car S O.S 9pm More4, Freeview 18, Freesat 124
Chris
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Depends a lot on your local roads, I have std set up, 3.7 and 22% od and I find on our local roads which seem to be busier each year,
3rd is a bit low for 30mph limit where one is often only doing 20-25 due to traffic and 4th is too high but od 3rd is just right, allowing mini roundabouts to be taken by dropping for od 3rd back to 3rd. On motorways od top is effortless at 70/75.
Chris
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I am posting this for the benefit of others but, do look at the Woolies item closely before fitting because it is possible to fit it the wrong way round. This will be evident if there are kinks in the front two corners.
If fitted wrongly it wont seal, don't ask me how I know or how long mine was on wrong before I realized why it was still leaking.
What we need on this forum is an area for Anonymous posts
Mig welding galvanised sheet?
in General TR Technical
Posted
Hi John, we've all been there, we go to do a job and this piece of "not ideal for the purpose material" is shouting at you "Use Me, Use Me" from a distant corner of the garage. Hard to resist but invariably you use it anyway and it takes twice as long and is never quite as good as what you really needed.
Metal can still be bought on line delivered to your door, I have used "Metals4U. Co. Uk they do most materials from 1m lengths upwards. Other companies are available.
I would bite the bullet and get the correct steel for the job.
Chris