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Everything posted by ChrisR-4A

  1. Hi Jeff, do yourself a favour and whilst adding further complication to your set up, ie.the brake servo, remove a totally unnecessary item, ie, the PCV valve. Let the rocker cover breathe with a plain rubber pipe taken down to a point just lower than the sump in the airstream. Then you can use the PCV take off for the servo. One other point, a decent set of front disc pads, Hawke for example will give more gain than a servo, the currently available "standard" brake pads are pretty hopeless. Lots of info on this, just search the forum. Chris
  2. Hi Roger, I thought you used the smaller all metal UJ on lower end of column, or is that on your other car? Chris
  3. Hi David, if you check all above and still get water in footwell it could be the seals between the plenum and the air vent at rear of dash, this lines up closely with the drivers right knee. Chris
  4. Airlines on assembly lines are normally 1/2 ins but where high powered airtools are used like 1 ins drive impact tools or multi head tools then 3/4 ins airlines are usually specified. A normal garage compressor would not provide sufficient cfm at 90psi to feed the 3/4 line so a 1/2 ins line with standard quick connectors would feed most garage tools. If you increase the size of the compressor and the working pressure/cfm then more air can pass through the same hose. Roger is right as with an airline only about 20ft long there will be no benefit. Chris
  5. Hi Rich, +1 for the better servo as suggested by Stuart, also what brake pads are you using, I have a servo on my 4A but didn't appreciate how good the brakes could be until I fitted the Hawke brake pads, not cheap but a vast improvement. Hawke part no HB169F.560 Chris
  6. The top adjustment Strombergs were used on Stags and other later cars. 4As only had the bottom adjustment and solid needle. Chris
  7. Hi Dan, welcome to the forum, most items are covered by the above posts I would just like to add, 1. Make sure the rad cap has a large rubber seal where it seats on the upper rad lip, some being sold by Moss a short while ago had this missing, they promptly replaced one I bought but without the top seal the "draw back" will not happen. 2. Check the expansion pipe is clamped to the rad neck and there are no leaks or holes in it. As above draw back will not work Chris
  8. I can see that would do it John, but it would create a hell of a mess. The vibrating scraper with a heat gun will remove plate sized pieces with very little mess . Chris
  9. HI Jo, +1 for brake servo, has this only happened since you fitted the servo, or when did it start. Out of interest which servo did you fit, there is a genuine one avail and a cheaper replica. The sticking problems are usually associated with serves like those on Ford Cortinas. Chris
  10. I used a multi tool with the scraper attachment and a hot air gun, removed the original sound damping pads with ease. Picture shows saw att, scraper is like a hand one only attaches to tool. Chris
  11. Hi Andy, get the car raised so you can see what's going on, have you also replaced the small seal near the bolt head , they last for years until one day-- When you tighten the bolt the canister should not turn with it, this may cause the big seal to stretch and pop out. Locate big seal with grease, Hold canister still and turn bolt with other hand. Chris
  12. Great use of space while travelling but wouldn't want to leave my toolbox in car every time I was parked up while touring. In the boot is out of sight, out of mind Chris
  13. The new ones sold by TRSHOP look good and fit well. You would struggle to make as good by recovering and the old one which may crumble or break in the process. Mine still looks good 9 years after fitting, (TR4A) Chris
  14. If you carry a spare part it's not much use if you dont have the correct tools to fit it. I only carry the size sockets which may be needed and a couple of specials like a 1/4 ratchet and 6Ins extension with small socket to change the overdrive solenoid and a bent open ended spanner which fits one of the fuel pump nuts. A brake adjusting spanner can be useful if you over adjust them at home and have to slackened off on the first long trip. 90% of my TR tools are in the boot, not much use if there not where the car is. Chris
  15. Roger, I'm sure you could convert the 4A doors to Gull Wing and you will have the first-- Delorean-Michelotti - IRS. This could look good on the boot. DeLotti 4A-IRS Chris
  16. Item 48 is an alternative top gaiter to 47 the design was not to use both. On my 4A just the two parts fit fine but you do have to get the item 49 in the correct orientation. If the parts have been made correctly then 47 is a good fit in the inner groove of 49 and won't come out. You may have an incorrect part, both my parts came from Moss. Chris
  17. Agreed on the 3 point fixing, shares the loads between the diff bridge and the chassis. Also have found koni shocks to be good and reliable. One thing I can say is my rear suspension has worked much better and smoother since I fitted the CV driveshafts 3 years ago. Chris
  18. It's all about the mounting to the door, my Lh one came from one of our main suppliers a few years ago and never remained rigid enough on the door, didn't actually come loose but was just not tight enough. I think the plastic mounting plate is too soft and the single screw holding the mirror in place relaxes and then the mirror vibrates when you hit bumps. Unless anyone knows different I'd go for the dearer ones assuming the mounting might be better quality. Chris
  19. +1 for black waxoyl, nice and thick to cover any seams or imperfections and easy to touch up. Not a show finish but if your going to use the car and get it wet then it's fine. I've been dipping in the same 2.5 ltr tin for years, just give it a stir and your away. Chris
  20. Hi PJ, if the float chamber is flooding due to dirt under the needle shut off valve then check the glass bowl and filter on the fuel pump for debris. If there's some present then remove and clean both float Chambers, check needle valves are closing and sealing. Also in case debris is coming from fuel tank to keep the car running fit an inline fuel filter, mine came from Robsport but many outlets sell similar. Chris
  21. Hi Brian, if your thinking of Continental motorway touring say 2-4 hour stints then I would not go for a Phoenix system. I tried one and found it much too loud for longer journeys as was my original Moss single pipe single silencer sports system. What I ended up with and have been using for over 10 years now is, standard twin front downpipe, then stainless single pipe to SS standard rear TR 250 crossbox which has twin tailpipes. It is more free flow than standard single tailpipe crossbox and although it has a crisp note if you floor it, it is very quiet cruising at 60-75. Chris
  22. Hi John, we've all been there, we go to do a job and this piece of "not ideal for the purpose material" is shouting at you "Use Me, Use Me" from a distant corner of the garage. Hard to resist but invariably you use it anyway and it takes twice as long and is never quite as good as what you really needed. Metal can still be bought on line delivered to your door, I have used "Metals4U. Co. Uk they do most materials from 1m lengths upwards. Other companies are available. I would bite the bullet and get the correct steel for the job. Chris
  23. Hi Rob, when lifting vulnerable items with a single point hoist, my experience is with Tractor Cabs and boat superstructures where spreader bars are used either in pairs or as a rectangular frame. As the word suggests they spread the load and do not have to be that strong as the forces are in compression Chris
  24. Very neat job Bob, but wont you have to refit the bell mouths to new filters when you replace them every other service? Chris
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