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ChrisR-4A

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Posts posted by ChrisR-4A

  1. Like many others I have not used my TR since last Sept so reduced my insurance to "Garaged no driving on public roads" . I now have a letter from DVLA (Mid) "motor insurance database" advising if I don't Sorn the car now I "Will Get A Fine" 

    I have now put car on Sorn, when I restart the Insurance, hopefully later this year, I need to re Tax it which takes it off Sorn As its historic class for tax, zero rated there's no cost involved but once again could incur a Fine if not done. 

  2. On 12/23/2020 at 1:10 AM, silverfox4 said:

    This is interesting.  I recently ordered the subject plastic caps based on this post and had a similar problem - the threads just did not want take. I tried several times and then pushed down hard on the cap while turning it and it seemed to catch and screw on - maybe I cross threaded it.  The garage was freaking cold so I gave up in disgust as either I have forgotten how to screw on a simple cap or the cap is wrong.  I won't know until I feel like challenging the cold to see what is going on.

    For context regarding Girling vs Lucas,  I purchased this Lucas TRW brake MC for the 4A last June from the TRShop and at the time of order I chose to add the ali cap in place of the plastic  thinking it was more in keeping.  I found the ali cap kept weeping because of poor integrity of the threads, so when I saw this post I ordered the 64474602 plastic cap from Demon Tweeks with the experience as above.  In hindsight I should have stuck with the plastic cap that came with the MC

    Neither cap makes reference to Girling or Lucas.  I look forward to any further insight from this post.

    IMG_5753.JPG.91a0de08ee26c25ccd05f888a7f4c91f.JPGIMG_5754.JPG.25c0b03bcf705f66043af3cad1ecac71.JPG

     

    Merry Christmas  all,

    Alf

    Hi Alf, where you mention the thread on the plastic cap "seemed to catch"  I think what happens is the plastic shroud inside the cap which is a similar diameter to the inside of the reservoir gets wedged in the reservoir if you push the cap down hard. That shroud is removable, it clips on and I remove the one on my new cap after which the cap fell over the reservoir threads spinning freely and not biting on the threads at all.     Chris

    Happy New Year to All.

     

  3. I have recently acquired a Plastic cap part no 64474602 from Competition Supplies for the TR4a brake master cyl and it does not fit, it is approx 2mm too large. I spoke to Competition Supplies and they stated that it's the only large cap they do but its meant to fit a Girling master cyl, my cyl is marked LUCAS.                 Checking the Moss London website they only do one master cyl for TR4 & 4A and it is marked LUCAS like mine. So unless you have a Girling master cyl on your 4 or 4A the above plastic cap will not fit. 

    For ref the internal dimension of the thread on the steel cap is 61.7mm and on the plastic one its 63.6mm.

    Chris

  4. When I bought my 4A in 1996 over the first winter I removed the tractor fan and fitted electric with switch in SS rad pipe. Not so much choice back then so I scoured the local scrapyards and found one complete with a close to size rad cowl from a Fiesta XR2 for £15.  Its been working fine ever since except for the new switch which lasted 5 years. I even picked up a spare motor and blade assy for £10, which is kept in boot under spare wheel, it's been fitted and tested but never needed.

    Fans on many modern cars driven on short journeys hardly ever come on and are virtually as new, some have twin fans which would fit a TR, then you would have a built in spare. My old one takes about 6/8 amps but even with a Dynamo and a large 74 amp hr battery has never been a problem. Driving at night with temps over 25 deg and traffic jams could be a problem but it hasn't occurred in the last 20 years so prob never will.

    Chris

  5. If  the whole engine, flywheel and clutch assy has been balanced then type of pulley fitted without fan extension should make no difference. However with an engine of unknown balance the result must be luck of the draw which could be why some cranks break and some don't. Surly to go to the expense of rebuilding an engine and not getting it balanced is false economy, they certainly run much smoother when they are. 

    Chris

  6. The concentric  clutch method is obviously the ultimate solution, however I am a believer in keeping it simple with as many original parts as possible and a kit which could solve the problem and be fitted by the average home mechanic would be ideal.

    To this end the following may be worth considering

    1. Fix the fork by the normal method. 

    2. Cut the cross  shaft about 3ins pertruding from the fork on LH (lever side). 

    3. Weld or braze the fork to shaft. 

    4. Have a machine shop produce a sleeve with 2 inch long internal splines, a split end and a pinch bolt. and cut mating splines on the remaining rh half of the shaft. Weld sleeve to cross  shaft next to fork, or cut splines and clamp. 

    The RH half could be assembled from the inside outwards and the LH side could be slid in from the LH outside as normal, pushed into the female splined sleeve and clamped up. 

    Chris

     

     

     

  7. Hi Westy, the multi strand cables do not like being put into compression and in this respect are not as good as the solid type. Yours has obviously seen better days as it's well unravelled at the end. If removed from the outer I doubt you could ever get it back but the outer could be too long and is kinking when pushing the knob in.  Get someone to look under the dash when you push it to check if there are any tight bends causing it to move and stop the cable from pushing in.

    Chris

  8. This is clearly a bad move as far as new forum members are concerned. For those of us who have been on here for some time we know all the regular posters and their approx reputation score. Generally this score is taken as an indication as to the reliability of opinions an technical advice given by that  member. Some advice often from low ranked contributors can be of doubtfull technical verification and may just be a personal opinion which could cause problems for the uninitiated. New members seeking help will now not have a clue as to what they reading is good advice or not based on the reputation of the poster.

    Posts risk becoming a slanging match between those with a solid background and sound knowledge and those with their own likes and fancies. 

    Chris

  9. I also have Konis which came with the original conversion kit some years and miles ago and are still fine. If purchasing replacement shocks be sure they  not only have the same fixings but the same dimensions. If the suspension bottoms out on the shock instead of allowing the spring to compress  and it to eventually hit the bump stop this could snap the swinging arm.

    Chris

  10. One point to consider is, all modern vehicle cigarette lighter sockets are hard wired into the vehicles electrical system and can provide quite a few amps output which  many 12v accessories like vacuum cleaners, electric Jack's and electric tyre inflators may need as they can easily take 4-8amps on startup. 

    Therefore if fitting a lighter socket to a TR you need to decide what it will be, or could be used for and rate the wiring directly from the battery with an independent fuse if more than 3/4 amps are likely to be needed.

    If however only a couple of items running off a USB converter are planned then linking to existing wiring should be OK with its own inline fuse of say 5amps. Personally I ran mine from a new take off from the  aftermarket battery isolator switch with a 5amp inline fuse thus avoiding any extra load on the original car circuits. 

    Chris

  11. Hi Rich, there have been many posts on the forum regarding the PCV, the majority in favour of removal. Mine went in the bin over 15 years ago and the engine breathes well using a straight pipe off the rocker cover and a TR4 Snorkel in the Crankcase below the fuel pump. 

    The main reason not to fit the PCV is it improves nothing but adds about half a dozen extra parts to the engine of which the failure of any one of these parts could lead to a breakdown.  Reliability is king. 

    Chris

  12. An expert will be along any minute and correct me if I'm wrong but I think it works like this, 

    The advance weights open to give more advance at higher revs for economy and performance modulated by the two small springs and the vacuum unit retards  the ignition at low revs when engine is under load, like on a hill to prevent pinking. If a fairly standard engine runs ok without the vacuum unit then it must be set retarded to avoid pinking 

    Chris

     

  13. As log as you have the one you want as a guide it's not too difficult to either swap the A/R weights and springs over or modify the weights to suit. May involve a bit of welding to increase the size of the weight if less advance is needed, or grinding if more.

    Chris 

     

     

  14. Interesting, but it doesn't take much air in a home central heating system to make a radiator run cold, it's like turning a tap off, so a similar airlock in a car could easily stop the flow. The very small about 1cm bore hand pump for the suspension on my bike easily pumps 180 psi and that pressure will take a 75 kg rider!

    Chris

  15. There are some very cheap and poor quality fuses around of the old glass type, a search on the forum should show where to get the good ones. They are 3 or 4 times dearer than the cheapest but have the correct rating. 

    Chris

  16. Nothing wrong with using the earth side for a basic cut off, however I used the positive side so I could run a separate wire from the switched side of the cutout to a CB radio and a cigarette lighter socket with an inline fuse. This allows items to be powered when ignition is off but cutout is still on, then when leaving car with the cutout key everything is off. 

    Chris 

  17. Hi Jase, I've used my 4A in temps from zero up to 36 deg in France and never needed any form of heat shielding for  the Strombergs. I do still run a Dynamo but with mostly LED lighting have never found this a problem. 

    Chris

  18. Hi Roger, ounds a really usefulI cheap mod, assume you fitted the flap while the heater was out the car, do you think it could be done in situ retaining the larger flap with some super strong Gorilla double sided tape or similar.  How much larger is the new flap is 6cm all round enough?

    Chris

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