Jump to content

MARK

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    86
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MARK

  1. Looks like a careful check of transmission. I am going to check tyres and wheels first, then move onto driveshafts. Unless someone suggests something else. Thanks as ever for the words of wisdom and suggestions ! MARK
  2. I have a thrumming vibration coming from the rear of my TR6. It starts at about 65 mph but goes quiet on lifting off the throttle. The diff mounts have been replaced but the vibration remains. There does not seem to be any obvious UJ issues. I have heavy duty rear outer drive shafts fitted. Any thoughts as how to isolate the problem ? MARK
  3. MARK

    H Frame recovering

    Thanks as ever for your words of wisdom Roger ! MARK
  4. I have a recover kit for my H Frame. Is it best to leave the old covering on or remove before glueing the new cover on ? Any advice on the best way to fit it would be very welcome !!! MARK
  5. MARK

    HEATER MOD

    Thanks John. I do have a lazer thermometer. Should be able to see which feed is hottest with it. Maybe the copper pipe run close to the tubular exhaust manifold might help. Going to check the return pipe for blockage as well. Going to go for winter rated thermostat. You can bet I will get it going red hot by summer!!!! MARK
  6. MARK

    HEATER MOD

    I was also thinking that using a copper pipe to do this mod mounted close to my sports exhaust manifold and under my triple weber carbs, to feed the heater, might pick up some radiated heat from the exhaust manifolds. This might also give faster demisting ?? !! MARK
  7. MARK

    HEATER MOD

    Hi Sean I am pretty sure that is the return pipe from the heater matrix to the water pump. I notice from your picture that you appear also to have a blanked outlet higher up on the side of the thermostat housing. I can see the blanking bolt head. Maybe I should have said thermostat housing instead of water pump housing in my post. What I need to know is if i take the feed from this outlet on the side of the THERMOSTAT housing will it provide a higher temperature than the normal feed at the other end of the cylinder head. A great picture Sean which helps explain what I am trying to
  8. MARK

    HEATER MOD

    I remember an article in the Mag about a heater modification that took the feed for the heater matrix from the water pump housing. I noticed that my TR6 CR has a blanked take off already. I presume that a TR 250 housing which would have the take off for the heated carb manifold , has been fitted in the past. My question is,- If I took the feed from the this blanked off outlet to the control valve would the water temperature be higher than the current set up that feeds the control valve via the extension adapter from the cylinder head.? My heater is a Clayton uprated one but I am still
  9. MARK

    Horn fuse blowing

    Finally solved the horn / interior light fuse blowing !! The power feed wire to the head lamp flasher terminal on the column dip switch has been rubbing against the indicator cancellation ring on the column and has been occasionally shorting !!! Hence I could not replicate the problem in my garage as it was only going to happen when the steering wheel was well rotated !!! ELECTRICAL GREMLINS ON OLD CARS !! Rather satisfying when you beat the little beggers though!! ( Fingers crossed and touching wood !!!!) MARK
  10. Re the very good Tr 5 - 6 Toyota brake conversion article on page 32 issue 315 of TR Action by Dennis Hobbs- Re the requirement to make new metal pipes between the hose and caliper - does the Toyota caliper have an imperial fitting or metric ? MARK
  11. MARK

    Horn fuse blowing

    Thanks as ever Rodger for your words of wisdom !!!! Going to try that next but got a broken front spring at moment and trying to source of 10% uprated slightly lowered to match the recently fitted rear springs ! wishing that I had replaced whole wiring loom instead of just the rear! Hindsight is a wonderful thing.! MARK
  12. MARK

    Horn fuse blowing

    Thanks for your reply Pinky. I think the horn switch is to earth and so a short in the steering column should trigger the relay and cause horns to sound. Am I right anyone? MARK.
  13. More electrical gremlins on my 73 cr tr6! My horns stopped working and I found the fuse -35 Amp had blown. I replaced this and all was well. I checked for any obvious wiring issues and found none. On taking car for MOT I checked horn on the way and found fuse had gone again! I replaced fuse just before reaching the MOT station and it lasted for the test however by the time I got home the fuse had gone again! This fuse covers the horns,all interior lights and the headlamp flasher. All bulbs on interior lights (underdash, boot) are not fitted at the moment. the glove box bulb operated
  14. Thanks very much for the words of wisdom. Stuart - as ever - would make sense to replace whole loom but as I had the car interior totally stripped out last year for repairs to heater plenum and bulkhead I think I fixed most front wiring issues to the front. This included replacing most of the connectors ! Extremely time consuming Rear loom replaced and all working now. Just one or two issues with earths and old bulb holders ! Much thanks for advice ! Just need to replace trim now !
  15. I have to replace the rear of my wiring loom as the current one is toast and resembles several colours of plastercine mixed together with the odd bits of naked bare wire showing. I had to jury rigg brake lights to go our last run and amazingly the rear lights worked !! Am I likely to hit any problems and does it matter which way I feed the loom ? Start from rear or the front ? Is there a correct route for the loom as I don't know if mine current loom is routed correctly. As ever, any wisdom or tips are very welcome !! MARK
  16. Thanks Tim - This is the mod I remember !
  17. A few years ago there was an article in the mag about improving handbrake efficiency by moving the fulcrum point closer to pivot point on the handbrake lever. I seem to remember Triumph recommended the mod for another model - Spitfire?? What location on the lever should the new hole be (closer to pivot point) be drilled? ( Diagram would help!) Is this an effective mod ? MARK
  18. Thanks Dave. I did not know the bottom joint would rotate. On axle stands and ready to sort after grandkids weekend stopover!! Also found brand new rubber steering joint I forgot I had! P.S. Flashing stainless steel goodridge hose across the battery terminals when fitting a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder is not fun and brands your hand when you pull it away! The joys of TR ownership!! MARK
  19. Thanks Daven. Seems a lot to do just to get indicators to cancel ! I might just cheat and drill another dimple hole for the clip in the right position on the steering column!
  20. If you look at the two parts 56 and 57 there is a cut out for the bolt and so it will only go in one plane and cannot be changed in orientation, I think.
  21. Thanks Daz . I have been looking at the rubber coupling joint but wont that be a change of 180 degrees instead of 90 degrees that I need ( lobe currently at 12 oclock) by rotation of rubber coupling ?
  22. Thanks Pete but I don't see how I can reposition the cancelling clip by altering the splines of the steering column as on the TR6 CR the column has flats and cutouts for the the bolts on the column joints unless i am missing a way of doing it.
  23. Having recently had the dashboard and steering column out on my car, a 73 CR and replaced wiring and heater etc., I am now in the process of checking everything. My indicator switch was very worn and tired and I have ordered a new one. However the spring clip on the steering column with the wheels straight ahead, has the operation hump at 12 o'clock which does not seem right. This clip has an indentation that engages with a indentation on the steering column and therefore will only go in one fixed orientation. The steering column is connected as was previously and unless I am missing somethin
  24. Thanks all for the words of wisdom ! Roger - Have ordered some cable and connectors to replace barbequed wires! I think I will put a a relay in circuit. A battery cut off switch as well! Nothing worse than smoke pooring out of your car in an electical fire! Especially when you are supposed to be going to the Scottish Highlands the next day !!!
  25. I have to replace the wiring for the overdrive on my j type overdrive on my TR 6 C.R as it currently resembles a burnt out sparkler ! A previous owner has used a relay in the circuit which I dont think it should have. It has also been modified to work on three gears. What ampage wire should I be using for the circuit to operate the overdrive ? Should I use a relay in the circuit? MARK
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.