Richardtr3a
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Posts posted by Richardtr3a
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The best answer to my liner problems was to ask RACETORATIONS to rebuild my engine. No further problems after 15 years. The height of the liners is absolutely CRITICAL
Richard
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I bought a new set of 10 inch linings and they were not round. I took them back and just said not wanted. They were supposedly made in Birmingham.
Now I have some old original shoes and some linings bought at Beaulieu and will soon have brakes that do not seize up after a few weeks of rest and do not get red hot without being used.
There is a lot of rubbish out there. Don't get me started on regulators.
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Should we be soldering new connectors or rely on crimping. If I try to solder I find that I damage the insulation before the job is done.
Richard
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I used a chemical paint stripper on my scuttle in 1969 and there has been a reaction to the paint every time we have painted it since. All other parts have been mechanically stripped, or blasted. I make sure that straight after blasting that the bare metal is zinc sprayed. My new chassis is in first class order after over 30 years. Keep away from the acid. (always good advice)
Richard
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Best to avoid any dodgy petrol.
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There is no question. Spend money on the chassis and you start well.If you do the body first the doors will never line up and nothing will fit well and you will waste a lot of money.
I started with a new Standard Triumph chassis and had it zinc sprayed and now 38 years later it is still as good as new. Try to alter as little as possible.
Good luck Richard
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There is no question about it The DISTRIBUTOR DOCTOR is the best. After an overhaul my car starts like a modern car and runs so smooth that I can not believe that I have put up with all this aggravation for so many years. He is expensive but really good and my distributor was previously refurbishedby a specialist who fitted me with the wrong weights and not a pair. Give Martin the job and live happily everafter.
Richard
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I have run two new wires to the lod dynamo and the situation improved straight away. However the small cable at the dynamo end is damaged and I have a spare unit so that is going in tomorrow.
My car is positive earth and are your instructions correct for positive earth. There does not seem to be anything in the manual about the polarity issue.
Thank you
Richard
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I seem to remember that it is necessary to polarise the new dynamo before fitting to the car. Is this cirrect and does any one know the procedure. I am still struggling with my electrical problems. Why is the fragile end of the dynamo jammed up against the exhaust so that the wires get hot, and is there anything we can do about it. My terminals are showing signs of melting. Any help would be apreciated.
Richard
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My commisson number is 28874 and a cloth braid was original. I believe that there are companies who will make up a new loom with the extra cables you need for electric Kenlowe, spotlights etc. The plastic cover looks all wrong for 1958.
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A length of studding with two big washers to act as a spring compressor and possibly a local engineering shop for the reaming if necessary, are all you need.
Good luck Richard
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I now have an understanding of the system, to a degree. However I do not know what to do in the servicing department and would be very grateful for a look at the manual. My email is Richard@harwood-group.co.uk
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The development history of the rear brakes clearly shows that the 9 inch brakes were later and went on to the later models. The 9 inch shoes are more available and better quality. A well known supplier has new Girling 10 inch shoes in stock but the radius is not quite the same and I spent weeks researching the problems. The original engineers developed the brakes as they went along and the 9 inch are shown in the manual in an illustration with the leading edge well short of the edge of the actual shoe. Replace your wheel cylinders and give thanks that you have the 9 inch brakes. If you must change the linings consider a reline of your existing shoes and mark them with your initials. There is an awful lot of problems out there.
Good luck
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Thank you for the help and the web link . My dynamo is new and I will check it when I get back to the car next week. It was working well and I cleaned the points in the cut out. After that they would not close. It is possible that they now have a bigger gap and maybe this s preventing the closing operation. I am reluctant to jump in and change the unit because it is an old Lucas B90 unused unit and was working very well until I fiddled with it. I had hoped that my electrical problems had gone away when I fitted a new dynamo, regulator and battery all at once.
The web link in my answers explains the operation and does not explain what to do when the points do not close. There was a couple of small sparks from the pliers whe I was checking the connectors.
Thank you Richard
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After cleaning the cut out points the unit fails to close at all and the ignition light stays on, I am keen to repair my new Lucas B90 recon.unit but may have to replace it, but with what.
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Thank you but what I am looking for is a specialist who can rebuild my regulator and who has knowledge of our cars and equipment to check the installation. I understand the wiring diagram but become confused by the ignition warning light which seems to extinguish when the dynamo is pumping a charge up the yellow wire when the other cable to the light seems to bring a live charge from the ignition switch. Why does the light go out?
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I need a elecrical specialist who is good at TR repairs. Is there any one left who is good at this work? Thank you.
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I need a elecrical specialist who is good at TR repairs. Is there any one left who is good at this work? Thank you.
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I have called at two auto electricians in the area and neither had any test equipment or interest in my problem. Maybe when cleaning the points I have opened up the gap, would this prevent thepoints from closing. I wish I had never taken off the lid. Can anyone recommend a proper workshop where thay understand these fittings or an overhaul by post.
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I have called at two auto electricians in the area and neither had any test equipment or interest in nmy problem. Can anyone recommend a proper workshop where thay understand these fittings or an overhaul by post.
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Please can someone explain what has happened to my genuine Lucas unit. On the last bit of the journey back from the International I noticed that the ignition light was not comimng on when discharge was showing on the ammeter. Back in the garage I cleaned the contacts at each end of the wire from the light to the cutout(D) and generally cleaned up all the connections. There was a small short when the pliers touched the fat brown wire at (A1) The light shone more brightly but still failed to come on when discharge showed. So I ran a fine rubbing down paper between the contacts on the cut out annd the regulator. It was very light and only two passes.
Something is now serious because the ammeter showed discharge with the ignition off. After a few minutes it reverted to normal and now if I start the engine the points do not close and the light stays on brightly.
This is very disappointing because I have had nothing but trouble from these new units and when I found a genuine Lucas B 90 I was very pleased and it has worked like a dream for 6 months.
What have I done? Please help as I clearly do not have enough knowledge.
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The camping is first class and there is no need to leave the site. Ther is a shop, beer tent, breakfast bar and showers etc. Everyone there has a common interest and please enter your puppy in the dog show on Sunday in the puppy class at 2.00 pm
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Is Walter Petchey one of those parts dealers who are always popping up here and there and who buys in the odd American car and sells off the parts.
I suppose it all keeps the old cars running.
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My chassis was zinc sprayed and finished in red transport enamel in 1986 and and has shown no signs of rust until this spring when a couple of brackets were fixed with plain washers and not stainless steel. The washers rust and cause the brackets to have surface rust only. This was on the rear brake flexible and the rear wing lower support. Easy to treat and now still as good as new. I use stainless bolts for all wing fixings,body mountings, exhaust , bumpers etc. Now all with stainless washers also. It is surprising how many there are on the car.
In the waxoyl thread I also prefer to see the chassis and treat the inside of the box sections only.
Dynamo
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I have spent the evening fitting a recon dynamo and the new cables to the regulator. At first the ammeter needle jumped around a lot. I fitted a new Durite regulator and it went to full discharge on the ammeter. Then it refused to close the points on the new cut out at all. I put the old unit back and now the needle is steady but you have to rev to 3000 to extinguish the light and if you put the headlamps on the needle slips over to discharge even at high revs.
Shall I attempt an adjustment or buy more units. All the contacts are clean and my back is aching from bending over the engine bay. Has anyone successfully adjusted one of these units at home?
I remember why I made friends with the local garage when I lived in a village.
Any help gratefully received.
Richard![:(]()