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Richardtr3a

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Posts posted by Richardtr3a

  1. Welcome to the club and you will have great year repairing the old TR but you will need the Register for help and advice. There is always someone who has had your problem and knows the answer.

    I have been a Tr3 owner for over 42 years and love it all.

     

    Good luck Richard.

  2. Darryl up at Racetorations overhauled my engine over 10 years ago. It has been no trouble since his work.

     

    You must use someone who is a known TR garage and who is up to all the wrinkles. My first try was a high class engineering shop in Brighton, well known for high quality work, who left the liners at the wrong height and caused me serious overheating.

     

    I had to drive up to Racetorations and back twice and enjoyed the whole experience, except the part where the engine left the trailer and landed in the carriageway still lashed to a pallet. it was quite hard to lift it back on with no help and huge lorries aiming at me at 60 mph.

     

    It does not overheat or leak oil and runs really smoothly especially since my new distributor from Martin Jay.

     

    Good luck Richard

  3. Don,

     

    Mine is attached at the same place but the clamp fixes on my new fitting and the outer rests inside the fitting, so that when screw is tightened the outer is not compressed in any way. It is still quite easy to pull but I worry that the jets have not fully returned and sometimes have to check by hand. I really want to start without opening the bonnet and drive along without watching the temperature guage or the red light. I used to enjoy the car like this when it was rusty and all worn out.

     

    I suppose that I am older and therefore worry more in all areas.

     

    I see that you still have the old starter. I sold mine for scrap.

     

    Richar

  4. Stuart,

     

    In order to avoid the outer cable becoming distorted I had a small brass fitting made up about 1/2 " long with a step. The smaller part is gripped by the clamp and will not pull through because the larger diameter end is retaining the outer cable. I was very pleased with this arrangement and design until I noticed that some bicycles have a very similar fitting.

     

    I also used the old motor cycle technique of leaving the cable hanging in the garage for 3 months and every few days allowing a few drops of high quality lubricant to run down the exposed inner cable into the outer cable and find the way to the knob end. So to speak.

     

    It would have a better cable run without the heater. I also fitted a strong spring so that the jet returns to fully elevated position.

     

    Yours Richard

  5. I had my calipers overhauled this year and noticed that I had one with the external pipe and one without. They have been like that since 1986 and work well.

     

    Babs, why are you asking? Yours looks to be in good condition but if you need an overhaul, mine cost about £42.00 and came back in beautiful condition which I could never have achieved at home.

     

    Yours, Richard :)

  6. These new pumps without a pulley are a pain. I fitted my old pulley to a new pump and it came loose and damaged the shaft and the pulley. They need to a really tight fit and bolted up hard. Triumph always used to sell the pump and pulley as a unit with a long bolt already placed through the pump flange.

     

    I have fitted an uprated pump from Racetorations with their pulley and it has knocked out the continuous leaking gland problems which I suffered for years. I rebuilt a number of old pumps and finally went the new route. There has been no further leaks for at least ten years.

     

    Good luck :)

  7. I have fitted my radiator with a blanking cap which is unpressurised and taken the overflow into an expansion bottle which is pressurised with a 4 lb cap and is only 1/3 full, so that there is room to expand and contract. This means that the radiator is always full to the top and the kenlowe hardly ever comes on. Good luck

  8. There are some things for which Moss is the favorite and I believe that they have a programme where you buy all the parts for a full rebuild project and they offer discounts. At some point you will need to have a friend in the spares business who will send out parts in a hurry and look after you with technical advice. Start making friends now. It is easier in the UK because you can travel to many of the suppliers fairly easily and they are all at the International. The USA offers different challenges. If you are keeping the dynamo try to buy a second hand voltage control box as fitted to any number of british cars because the new items are often rubbish. Join the Register and meet other owners for help and encouragement.You will need both before you are finished.

    Good luck Richard :)

  9. Take great care of the rear drums and shoes. Try to save and re-use because some of the shoes available are the wrong radius and some of the drums are worse. In fact try to save all original parts if possible. There are many experts on the forum and most of the menbers have dealt with tricky problems of some sort.

    When the car is finished it is a serious feeling of satisfaction as you flick into 3rd overdrive sweeping up a hill in the sunshine with everything purring. Good luck.

  10. I had my new chassis zinc sprayed and then only painted with regular body finish. This was in 1984 and it is still perfect to this day. the only rust is where I used mild steel washers and bolts. I have been on a mission over the more recent years and replaced all non essential bolts and washers with stainless steel and this is the answer. They come undone and are fine for attaching the wings, body and all small parts. In the suspension I used regular zinc plated nuts and bolts and stainless washers.

     

    I think that if you zinc sprayed and used a fancy paint the chassis will last forever. The RB106/2 regulator is a different matter. I like spraying better than brushing for a more even finish and better cover. Waxoyl is a winner inside and you have the potential to inject and turn the chassis upside down and leave the fluid to creep round. This opportunity will never be available again.

     

    Good luck.

  11. It is very interesting to hear from people who know more about this than I do. I started cleaning my B90 unit with methylated spirit and when that failed I followed the Lucas instructions. I purchased a pumice stone from the chemists and some very fine wet and dry paper, and it made the performance even worse.

     

    My very old control box is now working well and I have spares in the boot and in the garage. Thank you for the discussion on points cleaning.

     

    Yours , Richard

  12. It was interesting to meet you at the spares day at Stoneleigh. I have a lot of experience of the control box and have posted a lot on this site. I also have a large collection of useless units. If you are buying a new control box you must be very careful with the one with a silver label saying clean the points before use. These are not adjusted correctly and when tuned go off tune very quickly. My best answer is a 36 year old control box from a Morris Minor which I bought from e bay for less than £3.00. I had an unused Lucas B90 which worked really well until I cleaned the points and then it failed completely. I had to get home and travelled 12 miles with the red light shining. This cooked the dynamo and the battery was replaced at the same time. I have the original Lucas apprentice's instruction sheets and adjustment is still very tricky.If you have a box that works do not remove the cover. Lucas reckoned that they made £5.00 every time someone opened the control unit. That was in the days when they had service depots and equipment and technicians who knew what to do.

    My Citroen has a low fuel beeping indicator which sounds at all times of the day regardless of fuel level.It is now on the 3rd trip to the garage under guarantee and they can not find any cause. My Tom Tom has also crashed for the third time.

    I suppose thatthese things are all part of survival. :huh:

  13. Welcome and I hope you make new friends. Installing the hardop is relatively straight forward and you will need help lifting, holding, and pushing on it to make the screen edge and the rear edge fit neatly enough for the bolts to fit. The chrome windscreen brackets may strip their thread if they are old. I fact the seal is very poor along the top of the windscreen and the rain will come in. I gave up on the headlining and lined mine with black felt, but kept the central retaining strip just for the look of it. You must be very careful with the rear window. I have lost two which were sucked out at high speeed . I have had some brackets made that clamp the plexiglass and the metal, and tighten up with a very neat bolt through the centre. No more trouble since then.

     

    When installing I start at the middle and and make sure a helper pushes from outside on the 4 corners. I think that the profile goes out of shape in the garage over the summer. Good luck

  14. the old bomb starter is a major pain and a weak spot in the whole design.You need to move the exhaust on a right hand drive and then lift out the starter from underneath. If you fit a new starter they will go in without exhaust removal. Also you will not need to be in there again. I spent years rebuilding and changing starters until a modern one from Cambridge Motorsport sorted all my problems.

    Good luck.Richard

  15. I had a quick look at the site and £12.45 seems high for a side light. I bought some from a sale and they were stamped Made in England. One shorted out when one of the two contacts slid across and contacted the body of the light. The loom burnt and the light switch was ruined(twice). When you buy look very carefully at the way the terminal is constructed. Mine had a little flap which folded over and this shifted. Stafford vehicle components are good and Moss will look after you when it goes wrong, which may not be the case with an e bay purchase. Tripod lights are available and also headlight units to accept quartz halogen lamps.

    All the lights are standadr fare on many British cars and easily available.

     

    If I make Stoneleigh we could meet. I have often read your posts.

     

    Yours Richard :)

  16. This all looks very interesting and I would like to know more. Can you direct me to a website where I can do some research?

     

    My car has had two serious electrical shorts and cables have been damaged. A proper fuse would have saved burning cables, damaged switches and smoke under the dashboard.

     

    Please can you explain what you have purchased?

     

    Yours , Richard

  17. My TR3 had a very minor clip to the front spinner and the caliper was broken in 1969. After inspection it was clear that the chassis was useless and I managed to buy a new one from the Roundabout Garage in Chiswick for a very low offer, to help them clear old stock.

     

    It was 1986 when we finished the car and won the Presidents cup in the Concours. If you can pull it off in 7 years I fell that you are going very well. I remember saying that I would have nothing to do except to keep up the bodywork. This is quite wrong and lots of replacement parts have a short life. A few years back I was overheating and the radiator people asked how old the rad was. I said that it was new but of course it was 20 years old and due for replacement.

     

    The repairs never stop and I am happy out there in the garage as long as it isn't cold. Good luck

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