Richardtr3a
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Posts posted by Richardtr3a
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The distributor doctor will fit the correct springs, overhaul the entire distributor and set it up on his workshop jig. After this your car will start and run like never before. He has all the corrct springs and is very good at it. This overhaul made such an enormous difference to my enjoyment of the car that I am always talking about it. My distributor was overhauled previously in the 80's and has been running with the wrong springs for 20 years, and no advance and retard.
Send your entire unit to Martin Jay and acheive some satisfaction in this sea of new parts that do not work.
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My pump came from Racetorations and with a new pulley cost a bit. It has been there 10 years and never gives me a worry. Replace the pulley from the same manufacturer at the same time.
Do not buy the cheapest pump.
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That is a great colour. Do you have a name for it? The indicator conversion looks very good and in period. When are you planning the first drive?
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Good luck with this but it looks like an awful lot of work and aggravation. I have enough trouble trying to stop the regular exhaust from hitting the chassis and the floor. The carbs may be better but the exhaust is work intensive.
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You realise that this is only the start of a long journey and that is before you drive away from the house.
The front lights can be dual filament and the rears will have to have some home made brackets. it is probably best policy not to cut the body about too much.
The 48 spoke wheels are not strong enough and the 72 make the look much too busy. There is no point in overhauling the existing when you can buy reasonable quality and you will get a new splined centre with no wear.
MWS used to supply the best wheels when they were in Jeddo Road, London ,but they have moved out of town. They could refurbish them for you, if you were insistent.
The tyre distributor near Beaulieu can provide well priced Michelins.
You will find that you need all sorts of new parts.
Hydraulic seals throughout
New up rated radiator
Possibly exhaust
Conversion to unleaded head
Overhaul distributor by Martin Jay
New battery
DO NOT touch the control box, not even to look inside.
New oil and grease everything.
You will be entering the world of replacement parts. Be prepared for most re manufactured parts to be inspected carefully and researched on the forum before purchase. Some items are not subject to high class quality control whether made in Engladn of the far east. We are lucky that anyone is interested enough to make parts at all for cars 50 years old. However it is difficult.
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Last night after a beer, I tried to adjust the regulator to charge higher and moved the screw adjuster a bout 1/4". Now I have plenty of charge and the red light has gone out firmly.
My mistake was not realising that moving the screw back to the original position would not necessarily restore the output to the original volume.
I have booked an auto electrician for later this week and he will probably have better tools than I have. Where can I buy a moving coil voltmeter as specified in the manual?
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Last night after a beer, I tried to adjust the regulator to charge higher and moved the screw adjuster a bout 1/4". Now I have plenty of charge and the red light has gone out firmly.
My mistake was not realising that moving the screw back to the original position would not necessarily restore the output to the original volume.
I have booked an auto electrician for later this week and he will probably have better tools than I have. Where can I buy a moving coil voltmeter as specified in the manual?
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The ammeter needle will not move past the middle position at any revs and will show major discharge if the headlights are on. This was not happening before the adjustment. I should have known better.
I understand that when the battery is fully charged after starting the needle will and should stay at "0"
The red light glimmers at 2000 rpm and above and and stays at glimmer until the revs drop to 800. I have called the auto electrician and he has explained to me how satisfactory an alternator would be.
I want to keep the dynamo and have a small collection of old 2nd hand units to show him. I would like to understand what I have done by making the adjustment. The simple answer is "you have broken it".
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My battery was losing fluid too quickly. Even a couple of weeks of short runs would mean toppping up again.
After some advice I understood that my regulator was pushing out too many volts. I should know better after all my troubles, but on Sunday I opened it up and with a volt meter attached reduced the output from the regulator to 15 volts. This only required a small adjustment, anticlockwise of about 1/8"
I went for a trial run of about 80 miles and noticed on the way back that the ammeter would not move past the middle position. It would not show charge. If you put the lights on it would show discharge saticfactorily.
I tried to adjust the regulator back to the original position but it made no difference.I can not beleive that I took off the lid and now have a problem. All I had to do was buy water and top up now and again.
Can anyone explain what has happened and how I am in this position yet again?
Thank you , Richard TR3A
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I have a receipt from the local Standard Tiumph agent in Brighton, for the removal of the restrict
or which was causing my brakes to bind up. Ir was a mistake by ST at the time. I have been running ever since without one.
Good luck, Richard
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5 Petrol pumps for 4 cylinder cars
6 Control boxes for replacing RB106/2
7 Control boxes for replacing RB106/2
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I only know about the TR3. The cylinder should move when operated so that both shoes operatd on the drum. The other end of the shoe is fixed and if the cylinder did not slide in the backplate both shoes would not make contact with the drum.
Some replacement shoes are the wrong diameter and will not allow you enough adjustment to give good brakes and free running at the same time. You either have snagging brakes or not enough on the handbrake lever. Reline the ones you have if they are working.
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You should definitely find the local group and arrange a drive in as many cars as possible. The best place is to see them all together is the International at Malvern.
If I was going for another TR at this stage and with the years of experience that I now have, I would decide on which model and then find one in TRaction which has had a full restoration and is in first class condition. There are often people who have spent £25,000 and 5 years on a rebuild and are then selling on for around your 15k mark. The chassis and bodywork are the major expenses and harder to find anyone good at it that you can afford. The mechanical parts such as the engine and gearbox can be serviced and repaired more easily by a wider range of technicians. If it has rust you will have to be very careful and get estimates from a good specialist before you agree a price.
There are number of owners who went in for a new rear wing and cills only to find themselves in a full bodywork restoration lasting years.
If you were local to London I would be pleased to show you my car 1958 3A
Good luck,
Richard
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Er,
Do you know how to make a cat bark?
Soak in petrol and crack a match.
The cat goes: "WOOOFFF".
In memory of Max, most stupid Huskie ever who used to chase parked cars and bite hedgehogs and just happened to pass away to day at 14.
Badfrog
It is absolutely heart breaking to lose a loved member of the family. In his memory waste no time and approach a rescue centre soon.
Richard and Harry
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This is a very big question and we need to know some more details.
1. Are you able to repair an old car at home or will you use a local garage?
2. Have you driven a TR3 yet. The steering and handling are not like a new car?
3. What will you use the car for?
4. Do you have any past experience of old cars?
5. Do you have an empty garage?
6. Will you have support within the family?
Good luck, Richard
Long term owner of TR3A
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My hard top clips are semi circular and the freeway through the arch is the same profile as the rubber moulding.There is a similar clip on the inside and a small recessed nut and bolt holds the two parts tight clamping the rear perspex and holding it tight.
We shall be at Malvern and you could see then. I have a problem with my telephone cable to laptop connection. If the new one works I will try later on.
Good luck, Richard tr3a
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I have the same as Don and my com. no. is 28874. It works well and is not obtrusive.
Good luck.Richard
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I found that you place the seal in the hard top around all the edges at once, and then use the stiff cord you have placed in the glass recess to lever the rubber over the perspex in the usual way. Mine was a difficult fit until I gave it a bit of rough handling and a bang with my fist.
I had 6 elliptical clamps made up to clamp the glass in because I had lost 2 rear windows at speed in the past. Now we can test the engine without any problems and the window stays firm.
Good luck, Richard
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Never mind the old days. I had a flat tyre at 7.45 am on Friday and was unable to loosen the wheelnuts. The Citroen wheelbrace started to bend and then the car fell off the jack. Luckily I was outside the house and was able to find a proper wheel brace and my trolley jack almost instantly.
If I had been half way across Wandsworth bridge, out in the country or even a bit further from the house I would have had to wait for the RAC and miss a vital appointment and mess up a very full diary of meetings.
I will carry the wheelbrace from now on but the jack would not allow me to fit the spare wheel even at full extension and while trying to offer it up ,the car fell off the jack anyway.
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I have an oil cooler fitted to my TR3A. It sits in front of the radiator on a bracket which I had made up so that there is a 2" space under it to allow air to flow to the radiator. There are two flexibles which run to the oil filter adaptor. One has the thermostat in it, fitted close to the LH front horn, and there is an adaptor plate which takes both flexibles and allows the filter to be fitted as before. This arrangement has worked well for many years and I have an oil temperature guage which confirms that the oil is never hot.
You will find that keeping the engine cool is another matter. My radiator and electric fan have got this problem in control also. There is a lot of discussion on the forum on cooling the TR3
Good luck with yours
Richard
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Tom,
I am very interested in seeing them and would be very pleased to find you at Stoneleigh. Please callme at lunchtime on 07973 696194. Will you have a stall or not. I think mthat he has placed this thread because I contacted him 2 days ago requesting someone in the Uk with the bumpers so that I could actually see one in the hand. They were unable to supply a satisfied owner because of data protection?
Thanks Richard
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Thanks for all the help. I am only interested in the bullets which are on my loom at present. These disappear into the sleeve and do not break off or corrode and give me no problems. The new wires which I have added for the lights and into the connectors at the front have different bullets and none long lasting. The sleeves are rusting up, after 20 years, and my electrical friend says only use Ripaults sleeves which are a better quality sprung metal.This is my next search.
I have tried soldering as suggested and always damage the insulation. I am safer on copper pipe. I also overcame the leaking petrol tap by soldering it in the open position.(off the car). But I am no good on the bullets.
Thanks very much for the opinions.
Richard
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I have been offered a crimping tool for £26.00 which should be a quality item and I can collect at Stoneleigh. I need a serious reason for travelling so far. What do you think?
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I have started having poor connections for the lights and indicators in the front of the engine bay beside the horns. If you try to open up the connections the ends keep falling off and I need to dismantle all of them because in spite of low mileage the connectors have started to rust . Therfore I will soon be stripping out all the sleeves and replacing them. I need advice on the best method of attaching the terminals so that they do not break off. At present the only ones working well and long term are the crimped bullets. I feel that I should buy a crimping tool next sunday and replace the mixture of fittings that I now have. Solder seems to damage the cable.
What is best?
TR3A smells in the garage (it stinks)
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
My garage smells very badly of petrol fumes and I am thinking of some form of breather valve on the tank overflow. i am not sure about the filler seal and wonder if anyone has an answer to all this.