Richardtr3a
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Posts posted by Richardtr3a
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On 3/9/2024 at 7:47 PM, RobH said:
No it isn't a 'neat trick' Ian. Frankly, it is lunacy by someone who has no idea what forces he is dealing with. Anyone who would do that shouldn't be allowed within 20 feet of a car.
Thanks for the advice. I will be out trying to compress my spring this morning, as long as the wet weather goes away.
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Lincon Batteries supplied me with a positive earth connection at the rear of the battery so that it was never near the bonnet. I will look out the original invoice tomorrow and I will put the contact details here .
It has been an excellent unit and is bigger than the one they recommend for the TR3A.
Richard & B
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I am painting the spring and bracket today and will allow the paint to dry for 24 hours. I will be searching the garage for cable ties . I always find parts that I have lost but sometimes can not find what I am actually looking for.
Thanks Richard & B
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I now have to refit the front panel. It is in place and ready to be finished. I was looking at the bonnet spring and I need some advice how to bolt it n position so that the strong spring is not allowed to escape down into the engine bay, while I am trying to line it all up. ??
Please help Richard & B
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After some research in my old paper files I find that I have been in this same position some years ago. My file show that I sent the wrong banjo x2 to a company in the Midlands. They returned it with new braided hoses . It was returned to them immediately because it was leaking. A second charge was made and the banjo connections were cramped tighter.
I do not want to be in the same position again so I have ordered the complete unit from Moss which will have all new correct parts assembled and ready to bolt on to the SU . I am waiting for delivery and hope that the fibre washers are included.
I am keen to use a sealer and what would work with the SU, banjo and fibre washers and Petrol
Thanks Richard & B
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I have been out in the garage and found some SU parts in a box. I have two banjo and they have a short connection which would internally take 5/16 pipe.
I also have a length of modern flexible hose to make the connections. But the new 'rubber' hose is a very tight fit. I held it in boiling water for a few minutes and just managed to slip it over the brass banjo input which is only just under 1/4 " long and I do not think that a jubilee clip would work. Is there any other clip that would be petrol proof and not slide off the pipe when tightened ?
The moss parts are £130 so I am trying to use the parts supply in my own plastic box in the garage, plus three new clips ??
Thanks Richard & B
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I have a banjo with one end snapped off. So I need a new fuel pipe made up from
- two new banjo fittings
- correct size washers and gaskets,
- one short length of pipe from the rear SU to the front SU
- one length of pipe from the front SU to the thermostat housing with fittings to connect to the existing pipe from the fuel pump
I did this many years ago and I can not find the company who made the pipe for me. It is probably time for a new E proof pipe anyway. I am looking for a fully made fuel pipe and some washers of the correct size for the banjo. I have some sealer so I am hoping for a straight forward simple repair.
Is there any advice from the forum please.
Richard & B
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Thanks for the the fast answers and advice . It is raining again here again and the TR is on hold for the moment. The battery is on charge and the hard top and front panel are loose and need two men to lift them off the TR. Spring is coming ???
Richard & B
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I have a friend helping me with fitting my overhauled steering box at the week end. It has been in the garage for a long time and I have the front panel ready to lift out. I will need new oil and what is the best. I sometimes use Opie oils.
Any help available
Thanks Richard & B
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Looks like a very satisfactory door repair, but I like the cat best. Is he wearing a find me tag ??
Good luck Richard & B
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Happy Birthday Deggers. Your Cornish river looks dry compared with Sussex where it is raining daily and the footpaths are all very soft and the TR tucked away in the garage.
Best wishes Richard & B
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I have asked the friend , who fitted the dynamo , if he altered anything else. After a short discussion he explained that he disconnected the front carb fuel lines .
When he replaced them he must have tightened the bolts more than my original effort. This means that there is no gap to allow air into the system which would account for the fuel pump needing priming after a full night with no use. There was no fuel leak showing
I tried the starter again this morning and using the choke the engine fired up instantly. This is the first time the engine has started so well for a very long time. My friend is coming back next week to fit the overhauled steering column. My local group has a breakfast meet on Saturday and on Sunday I will take off the front panel. I will have to mark up the wiring with different coloured tape so they are reconnected correctly. I remember that it is hard to take off the front panel without scratching the paint.
Any advice please
Richard & B
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I tried starting this morning and the engine fired up immediately.
I also changed the dynamo on 24 January which I tested by driving round the village for 9 miles. A friend fitted the new dynamo and managed with only taking off the air cleaner. I do not know how he managed to undo the fixings underneath. The ammeter is steady and shows a small charge at first. Next time the roads are dry I will try a longer road test.
How is the starting improved by fitting new electrical parts.??? I wish that this had happened years ago but it is very good now.
I will be trying again early Sunday morning when it is cold and damp. Thanks for any advice.
Richard & B
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I have not started the TR for a few weeks so this afternoon I tried it. I used the choke and the engine fired up at the first touch of the starter button. It was very satisfying to hear it working in the garage without any special preparation. For many years I have had to hand prime the carbs before a cold start. Today was like an original Triumph in 1958.
The battery was fully charged and the new Regulator was working very well. It was a new one January 24, , from Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions, Lucar connections , 12 volts and 20 amps. This new solid state version is very high quality and is called a ADR 106. It comes in a new container which is just the same as the original but new ,clean and shining black.
Previously I had a small solid state unit inside the original box but it was 12 volts and 16 Amps. and was not right for the job. The new one is impressive performance and Made in England .
Is there any connection with the improve starting and the new Regulator. I will try again tomorrow. Please post some advice here.
Richard & B
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I have had a successful day so far, MoT on the VW Passat, rain stopped, Dog ready for exercise and I am ready for a light lunch. But there is a small problem at home.
The Kitchen Craft stainless steel spring loaded ice cream scoop has a small semi elliptical ring that will spin round the inside of the scoop when the handles are pressed together. The ice cream is released and a second one is easy to carve out. This has been in use for years.
Recently the rotating ring has become loose on the operating rod which spins it. The connection is only a 2.0mm pin which looks as if it was connected by some sort of press. It is now loose. Is there any adhesive which I can buy to repair the connection which comes under some pressure when the ice cream has just come out of the 'fridge ?
In the garage I have a collection of 2 pack adhesives but there is no S/S on the SU carbs or the TR in general. So I am looking for a very strong adhesive in a very small quantity. Can anyone help please. ??
Richard & B
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I has problems with the condensers. I ended up buying one specially made for a racing mini and costing £30.00 ++ It had to be mounted on the coil bracket on the engine. Some of the cheaper ones are a waste of time and cause roadside emergency.
I have modernised other ignition parts and now the engine starts much more easily.
Good luck Peter
Richard & B
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Thanks for the discussion. I am doing all this work on the oil because my o/d will not connect. It was working well when I put the TR away before Christmas
I have searched the garage for my torch. I think that it is the one that I came across last week with a cable with USB connection. I like searching the garage and finding my cable ties collection and other tools etc. that I can not usually find .But the torch is hiding.
However I used the kitchen paper plan and I have oil level between the two marks on the dipstick. I would like to add a further 200ml of oil and the level might be over the top mark. Would this cause a problem when on the road??
I took the opportunity to touch up some very small defects in the paint on the front panel. I would like to give it a road test so that I could check the o/d which was not connecting. I have added 600ml of special oil which should be enough ?? Once the paint is hard I will try a journey round the local roads.
I have to help look after my daughter's dogs so It may be next week.
Thanks for the help so far.
Richard & B
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good luck today
Richard & B
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Thanks for the help. I do not have a black light . Please could you explain what it is ?
Richard & B
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Thanks for the reply. The dipstick has a small diameter and if I drill holes it will be weaker and the end has a chance of snapping off while I am trying to fit and remove it.
Richard & B
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I am trying to add new oil to the gearbox. The dipstick is difficult to reach and the clean oil does not show up easily. How can I improve it so that I can see where the level is after my top up of 200ml. I was thinking of wrapping the dipstick in masking tape but I am nervous about losing anything in the gearbox.
If I touch it with a clean finger there is some clean oil above the lower mark but it is impossible to see any top level. It is tempting to use some wooden dowel and a pencil to add level marks.
Please help me with some answers,
Thanks Richard & B
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Thanks for the fast reply on a Sunday. I have has a look at the fusebox and I can see the three green wires. I tested them and they were only live when the ignition was on.
So tomorrow I will try and find where the existing cable is connected and may end up with a new short length.
If I am successful I will move on to the next problem. There is always a list
Richard & B
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I was out in the TR this morning and stopped to look at the map. The ignition was off and the heater was still blowing air. It turned off on the rotating control and was working well.
I am sure that the supply to the heater blower control should only be live when the ignition is on. Where should the supply start from so that is only live when necessary??
My wiring diagram is no help.
Thanks Richard & B
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I have delivered my original Dynamo to a specialist who will strip it down and let me know what he finds.The car is running well so he will fit in my problems when he has time. He said about two weeks.
I will leave him alone until he reports back. These experts are becoming hard to find ???
Clear sky and no wind means a trip out in the TR at lunchtime and a road test of the electrics.
Richard & B
Restoring tr3
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I have just found the invoice from the supplier
The reference is Hard Rubber battery 242/13. The acid was sent in a separate container. This fits very well in the TR3 and has given me no problems. I found the invoice and was surprised to see that the date was 10/06/2014. This is nearly 10 years old and is made by a quality company. I hope that all parts that I need will be the same quality.
Good luck Richard & B