Richardtr3a
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Posts posted by Richardtr3a
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This afternoon I removed the float chamber and checked the seals. In my box I had three pairs of stepped black rubber washers with a metal washer with each set.
I was pleased to be able to remove the bolt and check the seals. The reason that I have the new stepped washers, in stock, is because my float chamber fixing bolt has the chamfered shoulder. I then remembered that when I last fitted the seals the shouldered bolt will not allow the stepped seals to fit over the shoulder. last time I made some seals out of washers and Wellseal which have lasted for a few years. This time I did the same but used the top half of the stepped washer to seal between the float chamber support and the carb body.
I am leaving the carbs dry until tomorrow before testing. Do any forum friends have an answer to the chamfered shoulder ??
Thanks Richard & B
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Thanks for the help and advice. This morning I had a specialist wiring man who spent the morning dealing with the problems and left it 100 %. It is very relaxing to have an honest expert working on the car.
Richard & B
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I found a number saved on my phone for Classic Car Electrics. I thought that it was the same man who came out last time. It was a few years ago when I removed the front panel and the first repair man had repaired the wiring by running a new feed from the LHS headlamp over to the RHS cluster of connections. But today it was a new friend. He came out at 9.30 and spent the whole morning replacing rusty connections and making new earth wires. I had a wiring diagram but he never looked at it. His van had a number of shelves in the back with many reels of cable. After two and a half hours and two cups of tea he had finished.
All the lights, spot lamps, indicators , heater and the charging socket were working well and both headlamps were wired according to the wiring plan. He was not worried by the previous work and would be able to fit a new loom if I wanted one.
He also spotted some small dampness under the front SU. I looked at it later and there was some minor leak. In my SU parts box there were two stepped rubber washers which would fit on the float chamber support arm bolt
If I fit them there seems to be a metal washer the same size which I think goes over the bolt before the first half of the rubber washer. Just recently I used Wellseal on my banjo bolt and I am thinking of using it tomorrow on my stepped rubber seals.
I need some advice.
Richard & B
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Thanks Ian. If the driveway goes dry overnight I will try your plan tomorrow. It does sound hopeful
Richard & B
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Last year I sent my steering column to a special engineering business. They were recommended as a high quality company. The column was overhauled at some cost and now has instructions not to alter the adjustment. It has taken over nine months to fit it in the TR. Luckily I had a reasonable one in the car for the last ten years
It works well while driving but the steering wheel is not quite horizontal, which is probably me and a friend fitting issue. But when parking or trying a three point turn the steering is much too firm. I have tried a few miles now and it is not improving. The overhaul company do not have a garage so I can not take it to Surrey. The one year guarantee has almost run out and they are not helping.
Is there a way to improve the box by using the rocker shaft adjusting bolt and locknut. The company have confirmed that any adjustment will invalidate the guarantee. I am having trouble getting to the company and their specialist is away until two days after easter. I am not confident in their guarantee anyway.
Can any one offer advice or better still come round to my house on a sunny afternoon and sort it out, please ?
Richard & B
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Thanks for the advice Rob. I have found a company who will service my K2 and I will take it in to them. I hope to get a quote first ??
Richard & B
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Thanks Filter check this afternoon,
Richard & B
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Thanks for the reply. I have been using the drive for over 5 years and this is the first time that I have a tyre problem. The tyres wheels and hub extensions for the wire wheels have all been renewed in the last few years. I have a special wrench for the tapered nuts holding the extensions and it was set at 50 . Is this correct ?
Thanks
Richard & B
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Thanks for the link Roger. I am a bit nervous about opening the motor casing inside the yellow outside case. The video was useful but he did not find a problem and ended with the pressure washer working.
So later on I will open up the inside and see if I can get the same result.
Richard & B
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Has anyone here repaired a Karcher K2 pressure washer ? Mine stopped and has had no life since. I am trying to research any problems and have checked the water pressure. Tomorrow I will try opening up the yellow case and see if I can find a simple repair.
Once I have repaired it I will feel more confident next time. A bit like the TR3
If there is anyone who knows the answers please let us know.
Richard & B
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The current maintenance is to investigate a noise from the back LHS wheel. While driving there is some low noise but as I slow down there is a noticeable flapping sound as if there was something attached to the tyre.
So this morning, while it was dry, I jacked up the back and removed the wheel, brake drum and the hoop that is attached to the chassis. There was no sign of damage and all parts had dust but no evidence of a damaged loose part. The drum was smooth and I cleaned it , inside and out, with a wire brush. The brake shoes had good thick linings and no shiny parts which could be evidence of a noise. The shoes and back plate were cleaned and the dust was lost on the driveway. The tyre had some small gravel pieces in the pattern and they were sprung out using a small screwdriver.
I put it all back together and cleaned the inside of the wire wheel. This made a new job for the next sunny day, which is cleaning all the wheels !!! So I set off expecting the flapping noise to still be there. So It was good news that in a very slow three mile test the noise was gone. It is not clear to me what it could have been. It was easily heard at 10 mph and sounded as if there might be a problem soon.
Has any one any advice ? Richard & B.
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It was a great run down to Plumpton Green and the roads were dry and clear. The sun was out and the car running well. It took about 1/2 hour to arrive and I was a bit late.
The other cars were all sorts of Classic, a LHD very early Volvo, a large shiny Bentley, a special Fiat pick up racer , a TR6 and many others. It finished at 12.00 and I drove home slowly trying out my new steering column. I will report back later.
It was interesting meeting the other owners who were all friendly and one owner helped me stretch the Tonneau so it would fit on to the studs. There was a rattle from the door and back at home I found that the lock was very loose in the door. I think that I may need four new screws to stay tight. Where can I find the correct parts ??
A very good day out Richard & B
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Hi,
It is Classics, Cars & Coffee at The Plough on Plumpton Green 10.30 to 12.00 run by Tony Ash. There is usually an interesting mix of cars.
I may have to be late or miss out because my son needs some help with his VW. I will find out much later tonight.
Richard & B
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Today I drove the TR3A about 4 miles to a local filling station so that I could check my new steering column.It was overhauled for me by a specialist company and it has taken nearly nine months to get it in the car. Luckily I had my spare column working in the car until last weekend. A local friend, who is a rally back up crew member, fitted it for me. It has take a long week to refit the front panel ,bumper etc. Finally on the road this morning and the new steering is much more definite.
So I washed the car in the drive and left it to dry while I walked the dog ,across the farm, to the local church. The sun was out but the wind was cold. As I was returning the shower started and me and the dog were wet. So back at home I closed the boot and the bonnet and reversed into the garage. About 20 mins later I brought the car out so that I could clean the inside and dry out the carpet and seats.
But the weather was ahead of me and rain started and there were hailstones. I try to keep the TR inside if there's rain. So now I have to spend 1/2 hour inside the garage, removing hail from the inside. I must find the tonneau and fit it back on. I was going to bring the car out on the drive but the sun was out for a dry short break and it is now wet again.
I have a special car meeting tomorrow morning and I am hoping that the weather is dry and the inside of the car as well. If this goes on I will need help fitting the hard top until summer starts.
But as I am on the laptop the sky is clear and the sun is out but the car is in.
Sussex weather
Richard & B
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Thanks to the forum for the help and advice. Today I was looking through my old papers and found my old Service Instruction Manual with additional TR3 Supplement. There was a wiring diagram and all the wires are identified by numbers and there is a list explaining the link with colour and number.
A few minutes reading the manual and the diagram and my wiring problems are all sorted out.
The forum is a very useful supply of help and advice.
Thanks Richard & B
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Where are you 2long. ? It looks like a very interesting building.
Richard & B
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Thanks Bob. I will be out there in the morning.
Richard & B
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Thanks for the reply. I can find the earth easily. There is a single red cable with a connector which will take my red cable. I am still checking for my green connection. There is one small green/white cable that is connected to a cable from the steering column.
Is this the correct connection and shall I add my loose cable to this one. ???
Thanks
Richard & B
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The French got there just ahead me.
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Good luck with the wiper tube. This may well be the problem. I used to have a similar rattle and it turn out to be bonnet prop needing a new rubber clip. I tried to improve the wiper tube and mounted it carefully. The noise may have been there as well.
There are often things that need attention, love and repair on a car from the 50's
Let us know when you win
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I have fitted the front panel my TR3A. It took a long time to get the bumper in the best position but it is all done.
However I am left with some wiring mysteries. The connections from the steering column were saved with masking tape and are all correctly fitted. But the cable from the RHS side lamp/indicator has three cables with a number of possibilities. They are black, red and green with no extra trace or identification. I need to connect them correctly and would be very pleased if any forum members could explain which of the the cables waiting on the inner wing would be correct for my three homeless friends. The black one looks like an earth ?
Thanks Richard & B
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Moss technical have checked the connector and are sending me a modified unit. They are being very helpful. I may be back on the road next week.
Richard & B
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It is all looking hopeful now. But the connection from the flexible to the pipe from the pump is made with a special fitting which comes with an "olive" I have asked Moss for some help from their technical department.
The new connector is mild steel and the new flexible fit easily. The other side of the connector is to be connected to my existing solid pipe which will be sealed by an olive. The connector will not allow my pipe to fit inside and the new "olive" will be on the extreme end of the pipe. The new "olive" is not like any other that I have ever seen and is a smooth round small tube that will fit over my pipe and will be compressed when fitted on the last 1/4" end of my pipe. I am reluctant to drill out the fitting to allow my pipe to enter and then I could use the existing olive or use the new olive in a better position on the
feed pipe.
Moss technical are investigating. Has anyone else any answers to pipe connections ???
Richard & B
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I have moved my front panel on the TR3A to a new safe place in the garden shed. I kept all the fixings in separate small boxes so that they would be easy to refit. My friend was able to fit my overhauled steering column and box in only three hours. After he finished I was left with fitting the front panel back in position at a later date. I started the project a few weeks ago and then the rain started so I could not be out in the garden
Today there was no rain and I was left with the RHS wing and panel to be fitted. I had already fitted the LHS. I started after lunch because the rain was holding off and it was a quiet afternoon. I started at about 1.30 and it was very difficult to make the captive nuts stay in the best lined up position. I tried lining them up with a short length of wire but the curve on the wing was slightly different to the front panel. It did line up before but I remember that it needed some leverage to make it fit. So today I had to use a 6ft length of 4"x2" and some old scaffolding to make the panel move a small amount. I had to move the trim tabs and use a small wedge to make the gap between panel and wing slightly bigger so that the trim would push down. I finally managed to tighten all the bolts using copper ease and a very small ratchet spanner. The trim is pushed down and sits OK on the panel and the wing. It is not perfect but looks OK.
I finally fitted the wheel back on and let the car off the hydraulic jack. The job was done and I felt better. But it was nearly 5.00 and I had to get to the local Vet for pills for my dog. I though that they were open until 5.00 but Wednesday is early closing at 4.00.
So it was a lucky afternoon and the car looks as if it will be out on the road quite soon.
Tomorrow is the front bumper.
Richard & B
Petrol leak
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I Rob,
Thanks for the link. I have checked out my SU spares and do not have any cupped steel washers part 116 AUC1337. If I fitted a cupped steel washer this would presumably allow the chamfered bolt to fit the rubber shouldered grommets. Why is the bolt this unusual shape ??
I have also been advised to use Viton seals. Where can I find them ?
Thanks for your help
Richard & B