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Richardtr3a

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Posts posted by Richardtr3a

  1. If I can make my overdrive work as it should this week  I will give it a run.     Where are you based in West Sussex ?     Would you like the box of TrAction as well ?

    Please let me know.

    Richard & B

  2. Thanks for the link. I must spend more time on the Forum. I was in a hurry to get out in the local fields before any rain. The sky has cleared and tomorrow looks hopeful in the garage.

    Richard & B

  3. 22 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

    How about replacing the existing screw eyelet terminal loom for one with Lucar terminals already fitted?   Then use a Durite Lucar terminal relay.   


    Loom. Is pt no 131338.  
    https://motaclan.com/product/loom-overdrive-switch-relaytr_131338_1688_0/

    Alternative ADD a modern plug in relay with pre wired socket.   Run the new wires of the pre wired socket to your existing relay eyelet terminals and use the old relay and its existing wiring as a junction box?

    Prewired socket and 30 amp modern relay with fuse.    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164795155511?itmmeta=01HWFZYX6MDJ6V76P0SS6GF03X&hash=item265e8e8437:g:8sEAAOSwjjRbbs4B&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8JyhQ5CkiaOjL8Em76aWph4niZuQMQFAA07FifTvP9duWTn8OTcj3Sy55xZQfdc%2B9U1aXCu1SWtuC57MZOF4k9ll8z66YgsfQf6kuzq%2BytCIwHJBAg%2B1PoXrP0Xx09VuOX9%2F6RszKlR%2FmFuvrPX4FjuWE6KV7Jn3zUugCBGDEks3Idf09vrkA%2BJfXUNlZooYn0XcuZDdWCiDQN3BR9y%2B6Ym3avgkWqVvQNlB6bSzwy49QdGwuSF20pnnK9zVDtV2a4spCEwzpjHT1uZeXAfdyJJUAh%2BLyLFMVUX8vcFtUproj6iaBD7sb6lp6k9v3qZBVQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7zT-__jYw
     

    Thanks for the link to the fused relay prewired. This seems like a straight forward answer . Today I tried to turn the screws making my existing relay connections and they turned well. Is this modern relay ok for positive earth? It does not have a diode and looks simple to fit. I will need some instructions on connecting C1,C2, W1,W2 to 10,85,86,87.

    I plan to buy this one tomorrow

    Richard & B

  4. How many amps , 30 or 40 , should the new relay have to work and does it need a diode for protection ? The prewired sockets look like a good answer.

    Thanks for the advice

    Richard & B

  5. Is there any supplier who sells an overdrive modern relay with the Eyelet connections.  I could buy a Durite which would work well but needs new connections and I would have to start soldering . It is in  a very cramped space near the heater and gearbox.

    Rob H found me a useful supply and I was about to buy it . I am now looking for a different relay. I need the eyelet fittings to avoid the electrical work.

    Thanks

    Richard & B

  6.  I have been clearing my garage and the paperwork indoors as well. I now have a very large collection of TR action . The oldest is  issue no.110 November "93. I have counted how many copies I have and it looks as if there are more than 140 . There may be more in the attic but for now I am looking for an enthusiastic owner who would like this collection free of charge. It is currently in East Sussex. They need a new home in the next few weeks. There are also Goodwood TR group newsletters  September 1999 - November 2001.

    Please send a message on the forum if you are interested ?

    Thanks Richard & B

  7. I have just been out and checked my existing relay. I have the screw eyelet version. I am keen on yours. I nearly bought one yesterday and thought that I would ask for advice here on the Forum.

    Thanks

    Richard & B

  8. I am very impressed by these two answers. I have spent a long time explaining to suppliers what an Overdrive is and that a relay is required.

    Then I checked out the Forum and had a direct link. Is it better to buy a Durite or just the other one here on the forum  ? Durite may be better quality.

    The forum is the best place for advice. I have help from a friend tomorrow and will make sure that it is the relay which has given up.

    Thanks to Rob and Ralph :)

  9. I did add to the Regulator problems in a recent post on here.  The best end to years of worry and problems was a solid state regulator from Classic Dynamo and Regulator. I ordered a 12v,  positive earth , 22 Amp version and this has ended the problems with the RB106 which needed regular tuning.

    Some of the new Regulators are made in the Far East and use second hand copper  to reduce the cost. This makes problems requiring servicing. My Solid State unit is reliable just like a modern car. 

    Good luck

    Richard & B

  10. Thanks for the advice.  The relay  does click but there is no current to the solenoid. Can anyone give me a link to a real relay with a life. I need some instructions on fitting as well.  Thanks  Ralph what relay am I looking for ?  Shall I contact our main suppliers ?? I di very well with a solid state regulator which has stopped my regulator problems for years.

    There must be an electrical company , in East Sussex, who supply quality parts. I have a special mechanical friend coming this week to look at it all and would like the relay to be here when he comes later in the week.

    A sunny day here so I shall be out road testing the rattle noise with the cover off  the gear box ???

    Thanks Richard & B

     

     

  11. I have made some progress but I still need help.

    1. The rattle noise is something moving according to the engine revs.  It is not the rev. counter.  Is there a part in the gearbox/overdirve which could be making a minor noise? or is this just normal. Maybe I should stop worrying ??
    2. The gearbox has oil up to the top mark on the dipstick. The o/d  relay has power from the ignition but all other contacts do not show any life. The two switches on the gearbox are also not showing any life. When you select the overdrive there is a click which does seem to be coming from this relay. So it looks like a new relay and  I need some advice on a proper quality supplier hopefully made in UK.

    Please let me know 

    Richard & B

  12. I spent years trying to make the RB106 work well. I bought a conversion which fitted in th existing case but it could not cope with with the lights ,heater, and mobile phone charger because it was too low amps.

    I upgraded to one full new unit ADR 106 22 amps from Classic Dynamo and Regulators.  Use the link supplied by Lebro on this forum. It has made a huge difference and I wish that I had done it earlier. It did cost a bit but it was well worth it and altered the car for me.

    Go for it,

    Richard & B

     

  13. I have managed to remove the gear box tunnel after the whole afternoon undoing the bolts. They are hard to reach even with a special small socket and handle. All the fixings are saved in two small plastic  bags. The anti rattle spring looked to be in good condition but I will strip it down tomorrow The dip switch was difficult to release  and I remember it being an awkward fix last time. 

    So I drove for about one mile , down a country lane, with no cover. There are two faults

    1. The rattle noise is high pitched and related to the engine revs. Tomorrow I will disconnect the rev counter and see if that is wrong. The gear change was easy and the clutch could use a very small adjustment.
    2. The overdrive will not work. There is a loud click when the switch is flicked on ,  but the solenoid is not moving. I will try and find a wiring diagram so that I can give is some help . It is not easy to check the solenoid  but there was no movement either side of the gearbox.

    Tomorrow will give me more answers. It took the whole afternoon to release the tunnel and take it to the back of the garage.

    Thanks for the advice and any further help

    Richard & B

  14. Thanks for the replies. When I change gear there is a problem with the lever. As it is slid forward it feels as if there is some loose fitting on the end. It  does select the gears and it drives well. The annoying 'rattle" is noticeable in all gears and third mostly. I am not using it much while I wait for some home repairs ??? The gearbox was overhauled by Peter Cox, and the overdrive by Overdrive Repair Services.

    Richard & B

  15. My gear box has a problem. When I select any  gear the lever feels as if there was something loose in the selectors.  I am now nervous about driving on the road. This is awkward because my son has  borrowed my VW and I am now stuck at home. My overdrive is still not selecting. Things could be worse !!

    I am looking at a possible company near forum member LeBro for a repair. If there was a good specialist near Lewes in Sussex it would be more convenient.

    I am very pleased with the solid state RB106 and the car starts very well, without hand priming. Can these two be connected ???

    Any advice would be welcome.

    Thanks Richard & B

  16. We need a new woodburner for the cold evenings. The current one has a removable heat deflector plate over the logs and the smoke has to travel around the plate and go up the chimney. But this is not always working and smoke will escape into the room and can be a slight sting  in your eyes.

    So we are researching a good quality log fire with a proper working chimney connection. It will burn five or six logs over three hours and warm the room. This unfortunately means that you are warm enough for the news at ten,  We have to give up with the usual news which seems quite depressing and find something else for the end of the evening .

    Has anyone any good advice please ?

    Richard & B

  17. I have some other parts in my garage store. The frame for the hood is rusty finish and complete with webbing and webbing attachment  plates. There are also two scissor jacks in reasonable condition with one long handle.

    I am reluctant to take these parts to the tip. So I need them collected from the Lewes area in East Sussex. A handshake would be good payment. Please let me know soon.

    Thanks Richard & B

  18. I am trying to clear out my garage. I understand that all members have TR Action but my collection has the oldest one No. 135 Dec96/Jan 97 and there are approximately 64. It seems to be a shame to send them to recycling so I am putting them here for for collection free from the Lewes area of East Sussex. I am hoping that a someone will take them.

    Thanks

    Richard & B

  19. My steering was overhauled by an engineering company and is now  tight when parking or reversing. While driving it is firm but  easier to use. I am very disappointed after spending a large amount. It is supposed to be guaranteed but I have not made any progress with the company.

    How much does  a new column cost at Revingtons. I assume that it will work without any adjustment ??

    Thanks Richard & B

  20. I have fitted new fibre washers , AUC 2141 , and even using a ring spanner there was still a small leak on the front carb. This would stop me leaving the garden in the TR3a

     So last night  I found some Red Hermetite on a back shelf,  and used small amounts on all metal faces and both sides of the fibre washers, and my hands !!. Today I tried a local test run to my local Esso station. It was all dry and the rear carb banjo was dry ever since fitting new washers. So if I try to tighten the front carb Banjo any further I will be breaking the existing seal  and maybe allow fuel to escape when I am on a fast A road. 

    So this is a lucky day because I  also located an annoying rattle. It is the Triumph badge in the middle of the front panel. What can I use to fix it in place without access to the other side ? I do have some spare mastics and sealants in the garage. My son is coming for the week end and he is helping me to clear the garage etc. So I need some advice before 10.00 am tomorrow please.

    Richard & B

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