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Posts posted by Harbottle
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Hi Ian
My tr5 (PI) has a pheonix manifold fitted by previouse owner and you can see were it has been fettled to fit. I had to remove it recently for some work to be done and it was a pig to get back on but managed in the end.
Paul
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6 hours ago, Mike C said:
if I leave the car for more than a few days I let the pump run for maybe 30 secs to fill up the injection system and start returning fuel to the tank.
X2 Me too
Paul
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Damson eh, Jammy bugger.
They will start calling you Frank Ifield - YOD...L (those of a certain age will remember)
Nice car Gordon
Paul
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20 hours ago, Nigel Triumph said:
Time for an update.
I've just fitted another new oil seal (the fourth time now, is this a record?). It is still leaking and I've almost run out of ideas. Here's what I've done so far in addition to changing the oil seal:
- Fitted a new sleeve to the crank nose.
- Fitted a new oil thrower, dished side towards the cover, away from the timing chain.
- Checked and corrected the alignment of the timing cover with the crank. It's within 1 thou.
- Checked ovality and run-out on the crank sleeve with a DTI. Maximum run-out is 0.0008", less than 1 thou.
- Swapped timing cover with one from an engine that didn't leak.
- Fitted the oil seal with sealant around its periphery.
- Checked the crank and sleeve for oil seepage. There doesn't appear to be any oil coming between crank and sleeve but I've added a smear of sealant anyway.
The latest oil seal is genuine Payen and it still leaks. The seal, the sleeve on which it runs and the timing cover which locates the seal have all been changed but it still leaks. I've never known anything like this and am starting to doubt my mechanical ability. I cannot see that there is anything wrong with the seal and its associated components.
I wonder if it's possible that multiple seals have leaked because there's too much oil inside the timing cover when the engine is running. There could be either too much oil feeding into the timing case, or an impediment preventing the oil flowing back into the sump as readily as it should.
Any thoughts welcome please.
Nigel
AARRRRRRRGH !!!
Nigel as you are aware I am having exactly and I mean exactly the same trouble. The oil is leaking in the same place, dribbling down behind the pulley. My next oil seal will be my 3rd and before I start I was hoping for some resolution to surface. I Feel your pain, boy do I feal your pain.
Paul
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A great watch. I am sure they must swear as well as have a good time. Am I jealouse - you bet.
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2 hours ago, Nigel Triumph said:
Good luck Paul.
I've replaced this seal on several different Triumph engines in the past. It's never been a problem before, fit the new seal, reassemble, oil leak gone. The only component that hasn't been replaced now is the timing cover itself. By a process of elimination that must be the problem??
Nigel
Hi Nigel
I am thinking it might be the case with the timing cover also. I will try the pressure test to see if it is excessive and maybe the problem. If not I will have to source a new cover and will probably suffer the leak until later on in the season and strip it all down again. I did it last time with the bonnet off for ease of access so might do this again as it gives you chance to clean up a few things at the same time, Hey ho TRs are fun.
Paul
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Hi Nigel, I am following this topic as I have exaexactly the same problem. I have replaced oil seal twice with double lip version and replaced sleeve, mine still has leak in exacrly the same place as it originally did . I am currently typing this underneath my car (its on a ramp) awaitng friend to view and try and help. I will let you know if I can fix problem. Not looking forward to removing everything again.
Paul
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On 6/16/2019 at 11:55 AM, Motorsport Mickey said:
I have a spare fan belt already affixed around the front of the engine timing cover around the crank, been there last 10 plus years. Held in place with tie locks it’s easily accessible by cutting the tie wraps and then swung forward onto the pulleys.
Of course having the ultimate “ easy fix” in position guarantees it’s never needed !
Me too on my TR5. Now I have said this I will be scared to go out in the rain cos you know what will happen.Doh.
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Just a thought, check inside the hole it left behind in case something is still there.
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Hi Guys
Sounds like something floating about in the fuel tank and coming to rest now and then over exit for the fuel. One of our club members had a similar problem which turned out to be the small cardboard disc from a cap of fuel additive which fell in!!. Took a while and a lot of fishing about with a stick and pin thing to remove it.
Paul
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Jealous, Who's jealous
Paul
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Hi Stuart
Me too for this. There is a lot on the forum about keeping the engine cooler and fuel evaporation problems, which cooling fan to use etc. This has to increase heat retention doesn't it?
Paul
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Hi Mike
Did you spray it yourself or have it done elsewhere. How did you go with the paint match.
Paul (redrose)
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6 hours ago, harrytr5 said:
iani
Failure is not an option and no different from fitting all the other parts.I bought mine and adapters from Demontweeks to fit the tap. I can not remember the thread sizes (that does not help I know) but so worth it. I went over to EFI in 2010 with a huge amount of plumbing and all that entails.
Put a tap on, you will thank me the first time you have to use it. It is so easy to do.
Regards Harry
iani
X2
You will save so much time/hassle in the future should you have a problem with pipes or tank or just want to clean up the boot area. My pump is also in the wheel arch and this gives you a little more space to use in the boot also.
Paul
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1 hour ago, RogerH said:
I had thought about the two drive flanges that attach to the drive shafts but have discounted tham as the clonk appears to move left and/or right across the back
Are you sure there is no one locked in the boot!
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MrG is too close to MG for my liking. Welcome to the forum Bob
Paul
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I knew I would spell the Piskey I mean Pesky thing wrong
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Should be Cornish with PXE (Pixie) as a reg.
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Hi Peter,
I think the best advice I ever received on this matter was to only take what you feel confident about fixing your self at the side of the road. As I do not have a lot of mechanical knowledge, that limits the scope for me to quite a manageable amount of spares and tools.
Most important ... breakdown cover and fully charged phone (with the breakdown service providers numbers saved).
Tools:
Small imperial/metric socket set
Small range of spanners
Small range of screwdrivers
Pliers
Electric jack
Tyre inflator
Tools for removing wheels (I have knock ons)
Tyre valve core removal tool
Micro battery booster (fully charged up)
Multimeter
Crimping tool
A couple of those little gadgets to put on the end of a spark plug to see if it is firing
Spares
Coil
Distributor cap
Rotor arm
Spark plugs
2 Spare injectors
Alternator belt
Tyre valve cores
Spare wheel
Range of fuses
Electrical cable
Range of electrical connectors
Range of light bulbs
Range of jubilee clips
If I were going on a long journey abroad, I might take the spare fuel pump I have.
Useful consumables
Cable ties of various sizes
Duck tape
Self amalgamating tape
Strong glue
K-Seal
5 ltr can of water some oil
I think that's about it.
Cheers, Darren
as above but with some oil and a spare ignition barrel and key. mine snapped off inside once
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Thanks for posting Michael. A very interesting read on the TR5. Shall spend some Christmas time exploring more.
Paul
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I had a scimilar problem a couple of years ago with my alloy tank. Strong smell when tank full which gradually reduced as more fuel used. After usual connections checked etc, removed tank to discover that one of the baffles inside the tank had come adrift at the top weld causing a small whole to appear. Hence the cause of strong smell reducing as fuel used. Remove tank and check all around for cracks etc as this was only visable when removed.
Paul
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Thanks Stuart
I didn't know I got car sick till I saw that.
Paul
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Two topics down from this, Roger has posted a TR5 at the Earl's Court Motor Show 1967 and it has painted trim.
Regards
What spares to take on holiday ?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
All the above with an addition of a spare ignition barrel and keys. Cheap to buy and easy to fit should your ignition key break (as did mine) or indeed you lose your key.
Paul