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Harbottle

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Posts posted by Harbottle

  1. 4 hours ago, Kevo_6 said:

     Hi, I normally take this lot but if doing a longer tour in Europe maybe a few extra bits e.g. wheel bearing kit etc.

    BOOT SPARES LIST

    Boot Upper: Warning Triangle, 3/8 Drive Socket Set, Trolley Jack.

    Boot Bag: 2 Lts 50/50 Water, 2 X H4 Bulbs, Light Bulb Set, Spanner Set.

    Boot Lower: Coil, Fan Belt, Bottle Of Rad Weld, 1/2 Lt Brake Fluid, Emergency Tape, Overalls, Foot-Pump, Tow Rope, Scissor Jack,Assorted Screwdrivers, Pipe Clamp, Tyre Gloves, Jump Leads.

    Tool Roll: Brake Adjuster Spanner,Adjustable Spanner, Mole Grips, Magnetic Pick-Up, Feeler Gauges, Stanley Knife, Large Pliers, Wire Cutters, Tape, Long-Nose Pliers. 

    Under Spare Wheel: Injector Push In, Adaptor Seals, Mu O Rings, Red Drive Gear, Large Cable Ties, Dizzy Cap, Rotor Arm, Condenser, Points, Lead Set, Spark Plug Set, Flasher Relays, Relays, Throttle Cable, Radiator Hoses, Jubilee Clips, Wire & Connectors, Brake Light Switch, Battery Screw, Copper Eaze, Rad Cap.

    In Car: First Aid Kit, Scissors, Fire Extinguisher.

    Glove Box: Assorted Fuses, Assorted Cable Ties, Manual, Phone Leads etc. 

    Engine Bay: 2 Lt of 20/60w Oil.

    Maybe it’s a bit to much but the way my luck goes, more the merrier.

    All the above with an addition of a spare ignition barrel and keys. Cheap to buy and easy to fit should your ignition key break (as did mine) or indeed you lose your key.

    Paul

     

  2. 6 hours ago, Mike C said:

    if I leave the car for more than a few days  I let the  pump run for maybe 30 secs to fill up the injection system and start returning fuel to the tank.

    X2 Me too

    Paul

  3. 20 hours ago, Nigel Triumph said:

    Time for an update.

    I've just fitted another new oil seal (the fourth time now, is this a record?). It is still leaking and I've almost run out of ideas. Here's what I've done so far in addition to changing the oil seal:

    - Fitted a new sleeve to the crank nose.

    - Fitted a new oil thrower, dished side towards the cover, away from the timing chain.

    - Checked and corrected the alignment of the timing cover with the crank. It's within 1 thou.

    - Checked ovality and run-out on the crank sleeve with a DTI. Maximum run-out is 0.0008", less than 1 thou.

    - Swapped timing cover with one from an engine that didn't leak.

    - Fitted the oil seal with sealant around its periphery.

    - Checked the crank and sleeve for oil seepage. There doesn't appear to be any oil coming between crank and sleeve but I've added a smear of sealant anyway.

    The latest oil seal is genuine Payen and it still leaks. The seal, the sleeve on which it runs and the timing cover which locates the seal have all been changed but it still leaks. I've never known anything like this and am starting to doubt my mechanical ability. I cannot see that there is anything wrong with the seal and its associated components.

    I wonder if it's possible that multiple seals have leaked because there's too much oil inside the timing cover when the engine is running. There could be either too much oil feeding into the timing case, or an impediment preventing the oil flowing back into the sump as readily as it should.

    Any thoughts welcome please.

    Nigel

    AARRRRRRRGH !!!

    Nigel as you are aware I am having exactly and I mean exactly the same trouble. The oil is leaking in the same place, dribbling down behind the pulley. My next oil seal will be my 3rd and before I start I was hoping for some resolution to surface. I Feel your pain, boy do I feal your pain.

    Paul

  4. 2 hours ago, Nigel Triumph said:

    Good luck Paul.

    I've replaced this seal on several different Triumph engines in the past. It's never been a problem before, fit the new seal, reassemble, oil leak gone. The only component that hasn't been replaced now is the timing cover itself. By a process of elimination that must be the problem??

    Nigel

    Hi Nigel

    I am thinking it might be the case with the timing cover also. I will try the pressure test to see if it is excessive and maybe the problem. If not I will have to source a new cover and will probably suffer the leak until later on in the season and strip it all down again. I did it last time with the bonnet off for ease of access so might do this again as it gives you chance to clean up a few things at the same time, Hey ho TRs are fun.

    Paul

  5. Hi Nigel,  I am following this topic as I have exaexactly the same problem. I have replaced oil seal twice with double lip version and replaced sleeve, mine still has leak in exacrly the same place as it originally did . I am currently typing this underneath my car (its on a ramp) awaitng  friend to view and try and help. I will let you know if I can fix problem. Not looking forward to removing everything again.

    Paul

  6. On 6/16/2019 at 11:55 AM, Motorsport Mickey said:

    I have a spare fan belt already affixed around the front of the engine timing cover around the crank, been there last 10 plus years. Held in place with tie locks it’s easily accessible by cutting the tie wraps and then swung forward onto the pulleys. 

    Of course having the ultimate “ easy fix” in position guarantees it’s never needed !

    Me too on my TR5. Now I have said this I will be scared to go out in the rain cos you know what will happen.Doh.

  7. Hi Guys

    Sounds like something floating about in the fuel tank and coming to rest now and then over exit for the fuel. One of our club members had a similar problem which turned out to be the small cardboard disc from a cap of fuel additive which fell in!!. Took a while and a lot of fishing about with a stick and pin thing to remove it.

    Paul

     

  8. 6 hours ago, harrytr5 said:

    iani

    Failure is not an option and no different from fitting all the other parts.I bought mine and adapters from Demontweeks to fit the tap. I can not remember the thread sizes (that does not help I know) but so worth it. I went over to EFI in 2010 with a huge amount of plumbing and all that entails.

    Put a tap on, you will thank me the first time you have to use it. It is so easy to do.

    Regards Harry

    iani 

    X2

    You will save so much time/hassle in the future should you have a problem with pipes or tank or just want to clean up the boot area. My pump is also in the wheel arch and this gives you a little more space to use in the boot also.

    Paul 

  9. Hi Peter,

     

    I think the best advice I ever received on this matter was to only take what you feel confident about fixing your self at the side of the road. As I do not have a lot of mechanical knowledge, that limits the scope for me to quite a manageable amount of spares and tools.

     

    Most important ... breakdown cover and fully charged phone (with the breakdown service providers numbers saved).

     

    Tools:

     

    Small imperial/metric socket set

    Small range of spanners

    Small range of screwdrivers

    Pliers

    Electric jack

    Tyre inflator

    Tools for removing wheels (I have knock ons)

    Tyre valve core removal tool

    Micro battery booster (fully charged up)

    Multimeter

    Crimping tool

    A couple of those little gadgets to put on the end of a spark plug to see if it is firing

     

    Spares

     

    Coil

    Distributor cap

    Rotor arm

    Spark plugs

    2 Spare injectors

    Alternator belt

    Tyre valve cores

    Spare wheel

    Range of fuses

    Electrical cable

    Range of electrical connectors

    Range of light bulbs

    Range of jubilee clips

     

    If I were going on a long journey abroad, I might take the spare fuel pump I have.

     

    Useful consumables

     

    Cable ties of various sizes

    Duck tape

    Self amalgamating tape

    Strong glue

    K-Seal

    5 ltr can of water some oil

     

    I think that's about it.

     

    Cheers, Darren

    as above but with some oil and a spare ignition barrel and key. mine snapped off inside once

  10. I had a scimilar problem a couple of years ago with my alloy tank. Strong smell when tank full which gradually reduced as more fuel used. After usual connections checked etc, removed tank to discover that one of the baffles inside the tank had come adrift at the top weld causing a small whole to appear. Hence the cause of strong smell reducing as fuel used. Remove tank and check all around for cracks etc as this was only visable when removed.

     

    Paul

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