[Wiring Harness]

Thanks for your comments. Given Triumph's propensity for standardisation I did think it odd that they should run the loom down different sides of the car!

 

Myles

[Wiring Harness]

Hello

 

One for the TR4 boffins out there...my LHD wiring harness runs from the rear of the car to the front down the right hand side of the car. The Moss catalogue shows the RHD harness running down the left side of the car. Is this right - does the wiring harness run down different sides of the car depending on whether it is RHD or LHD?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Myles

[Paint...]

Hello

 

I am about to paint the dash and steering column components (outer column and cowls) as part of my TR4 rebuild. Thing is, I'm too sure what sort of paint I should be using. The guy doing it has suggested that I use an automotive paint with a clear coat. I was thinking just regular enamel paint. Has anyone been through this recently who can recommend what I should use?

 

Thanks

 

Myles

[Fitting Original Anti-Roll Bar]

Hello

 

I have an original TR4 anti-roll bar which I would like to fit to my car. However I don't have any instructions about how to fit it although I get the general idea from the illustrations in the Moss and the TR4 parts book. Does anyone out there has a set of instructions or some pictures that might help me?

 

Thanks

 

Myles

[Stuck Nut]

I did this recently on my TR4 with the engine out of the car. I took a long piece of angle iron, in this case about 10ft because that's all I had handy. I used a couple of the clutch cover bolts to bolt this to the flywheel. Whilst someone stood on the end of the angle iron I used a socket and a jack handle extension to undo the bolt on the fan extension. As your engine is on a jack stand I guess the flywheel is removed but if you're prepared/able to replace the flywheel this would work. Good luck.

 

Myles

[Paint removal]

Have you considered soda blasting? From what I am told this method will strip paint and residual rust but will not damage panels. I plan to get my entire car soda blasted which takes about a day to do inside and out. I took one of the rear panels down there last week and it took about two minutes to blast an area about a foot square including taking off a light covering of underseal.

 

Myles

[Door Removal]

Took the brute force route and drilled out the rivets so problem solved......

 

Thanks

 

Myles

[Door Removal]

Hello

 

This may be a really dumb question, but before I do something I might regret can someone give me some advice about how I remove the door check straps so I can remove the doors from my TR4...? The car is a late TR4 and the check strap is connected to the door with a rivet and on the other end is another pin and a collar with no obvious way of removal. Neither of my workshop manuals deal with this kind of check strap - they both reference the early ones. I'd appreciate some advice before I resort to brute force.....

 

Thanks

 

Myles

[Alternator Conversion]

Hello

 

Probably been covered somewhere else before, but can someone let me know what is required to replace my dynamo with a TR6 alternator or alternatively point me in the direction of a previous article?

 

Thanks

 

Myles

[Transmission Tunnels]

Hello

 

I need a new transmission tunnel and have seen the following on ebay

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Triumph-TR-4-TR4-origi...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

However, my understanding is that all TR4's have either cardboard or plastic replacement tunnels and that none (except possibly rally cars) were fitted with metal ones. My old TR3A however did have a metal transmission tunnel. So, is this a TR3 tunnel being sold as from a TR4, or am I looking at a genuine TR4 tunnel? Again, grateful for any advice out there...

 

Regards

 

Myles

[Adjusting Door Gaps]

Hello

 

I'm partway through dismantling my TR4 for restoration and have got to that stage where I want to adjust the door gaps before I remove the wings, engine etc. The gaps all round the car are very good apart from the RHS which has a slight "V" in the door gap between the door and the rear wing. I am thinking that an extra shim under the rear mounting point (i.e. the one that attaches wih a "U" shape support at the back) will cure it. As this is my first time doing this, can anyone give me some advice abour whether I am heading in the right direction? Also, how do you jack up the rear of the body such that you don't damage the bodywork?? Grateful for any advice out there...

 

Regards

 

Myles