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Everything posted by woodward

  1. Thanks for your suggestions all. I re-torqued the head, changed the offending spark plug for a known good old one and removed the PCV valve apparatus from the head. No more white smoke or oil on the plug so some progress there. Thinking the PCV valve was the cause of the smoke and torquing the head solved the oily plug. The car's still not running great (thinking carb setup but could also be the other plugs) so the car's now gone to a specialist for them to set it up properly for me. Myles
  2. Hi, I'm struggling to get my newly rebuilt engine to run well so I'm reaching out for some advice. The engine runs but doesn't sound great (like a tractor but that could be the exhaust which I think is leaking at the joint in the cross member - no unusual noises though) and more vibration that I would want on tick over. The car drives (only been driven a few hundred metres so far) - but there is quite some white smoke on acceleration (and sometimes tickover) but not all the time. The car has a newly rebuilt Peter Burgess stage 2 head and new 89mm pistons/liners with piper yellow cam.
  3. Thanks Ian - the gasket came from TRGB. Could they be the same…? Myles
  4. Hi, I'm about to put the head back on my rebuilt engine and plan to use a composite gasket (the black one with the read stripe on it) because I've upgraded to 89mm pistons. Last time I took the head off I used a payen gasket and sealed it with Copper Coat which worked very well. My question is whether I can also use this copper coat on the composite gasket aswell? Alternatives would be wellseal, hylomar (I have this in spray form) or none at all. What is the advice on copper coat...? Thanks Myles
  5. Thanks Roger. Another question, slightly different topic - what is the sealant of choice for the rear oil seal housings (Marx type)? Wellseal or Hylomar? Myles
  6. Thanks Chris - sorted now.
  7. Hi, I'm about to refit the cam coreplug on my TR4 engine after the bearings have been replaced. I'd assumed that the domed side faces outwards and you give it a good whack to seal, however the plug seems slightly too large for the hole although it does seem to be the right size dome side in. So before I force it in, just checking that the dome side does indeed face outwards on this core plug...? Thanks Myles
  8. Hi, The rear glass channel on one of my doors is broken (the channel has come away from the fixings and was lying in the bottom of the door). Does anyone know if it is possible to fit a new channel without removing the glass from the door? Trying to avoid having to remove the window seals if possible. Thanks Myles
  9. Hi All, The passenger side of my TR4 (ex US car so this was the driver's door for most of the car's life) does not shut well. It needs s good slam and even then does not close well. There is some play in the hinges but I was wondering how much is normal? Should there be no play at all or is some acceptable? I'm thinking to replace the hinges anyway (or refurbish the old ones but this seems tricky) but want to get quality replacements - does anyone know who stocks the bastuck ones? Thanks Myles
  10. Thanks all for your help on this topic. I had another read of Kastner's book and the technicalities material to help understand the issue. Given that I'm not building a race car I've come to the conclusion that I won't need to machine the liner tops. One other question though - I still need to decide on the CR. I'm not planning to deck the pistons but I do have a choice on head gasket. What is the recommended head gasket for a non race spec engine with 89 mm pistons? Composite or copper? Thanks Myles
  11. Hi I’m rebuilding my TR4 engine at the moment with 89mm liners, trgb piper yellow cam and stage 2 head. I read somewhere on the forum (though can’t find it now) that I should machine a 45 degree angle in the top of the liners for best results. Is this something I should ask the machine shop to do? Also when I dropped the head off I was asked what compression ratio I wanted. What is the common wisdom? The car will be rallied/hillclimbed but I drive the car to/from events so am so looking for something which will be ok to drive in traffic. My thoughts at the moment are to leave the
  12. Hi, I've been uprating the suspension on my TR4 and it looks like the rear of the car now needs to be lowered by approx 1" following the changes. I've read on other posts that I can solve this with longer shackles on the rear springs (I assume 1" longer?). Does anyone know where I can get these or where I can get them made? Thanks Myles
  13. Hi, I’m trying to wire in my hazard switch and looking for the double bullet connector with the feed (green wire) from the voltage stabiliser input and the output to the wipers and the flasher unit. Can somebody me let me know where this bullet connector is located in the car? Thanks Myles
  14. Hi - A quick question for the electrical engineers and experts out there. If I fit LED bulbs and associated solid state flasher relay, can I also use the same flasher relay for hazards or do i need a 2nd flasher relay for the hazards? I am thinking that I can get away with one as the solid state relay is load independent? Thanks Myles
  15. Hi, So my TR4 has the door seal with a a fuzzy that runs around both doors and over the backlight, and a channel for the rubber seal. I've never bothered with the seal until recently when I was out in the wet and thought I should really get them sorted. I bought a seal from the TRF in the US, and also a seal from Moss which were recommended as ones that fit. I fitted both seals however with both I needed to give the door a huge slam to get it to shut properly. Even then it pops out again when I'm driving. I know this is a common problem which is why I thought I would buy what are sup
  16. Hi - I'm talking about the ones in the top of the turret that attach the top fulcrum to the turret. Wanting to install an adjustable top fulcrum to improve the camber and it's recommended to weld the nuts so you can set it up with out removing the springs each time.
  17. Hi, Has anyone welded the top fulcrum nuts on a TR4? My memory is that there's not much space in there, and I would be doing this with the car on jack stands and the suspension dropped. Trying to work out if I can do this myself, get a mobile welder to do it or if I need to take the car somewhere. Thanks Myles
  18. Hi, I'm looking for some advice on tuning HS6 carbs on a TR4. I've always been concerned the car was running rich, so when the front bowl began to leak from the jet connection at the base I decided to check the settings on the carbs (following re-setting the tappets, timing and points). My question revolves around the level in the jets - I've set the float height to 3/16" from the top (plastic floats) when the lid is upside down in both carbs. However the fuel level in the front carb is probably 1/8" or so below the bridge, and in the rear carb greater that 1/2" below the bridge. I as
  19. Hello, I need to replace the upper inner fulcrum bushes on my TR4. My question is whether I need to remove the spring to do this, or just compress it in situ. I have the proper spring Triumph compressor that goes through the centre of the spring and i am thinking that once compressed, there should no longer be any tension on the upper arms, as the tension is taken by the spring compressor and I can safely change the bushes. Is this correct or am I missing something...? Thanks Myles
  20. Hi, I’m in the process of installing adjustable top fulcrums on my TR4. Looking at the top of the suspension turret, it does not appear totally flat, but has a ‘kink’ in it as you go towards the centre of the car. This means that when you push the fulcrum inwards to create negative camber the fulcum rides up the ‘V’ and no longer contacts the turret along its full length, only contacting at the ends. I can’t believe it is designed link this so I’m thinking I’m doing something wrong. Has anyone installed these on a TR4 and experienced the same issue? Hoping my explanation is clear!
  21. Hello, I’m looking for a set of stiffer rear springs for my 64 TR4. It has the deep dish springs but I seem to only be able to find the earlier flatter type in a stiffer spec. Do you know if I can covert my car to the earlier springs? I have the plates etc so could do it if if the springs are the same length (I know the really early ones are different). Alternatively do you know of a supplier that makes the deep dish spring in an uprated spec? Thanks Myles
  22. Hello, My 64 TR4 has a wingard mirror, which I believe is orginal to the car. Last time I dismatled one of these I managed to crack the sleeves and mounting when removing the stalk. I’m now trying to combne two mirrors to make one good one however I’m nervous of cracking the good sleeves and mounting again. Does anyone know if there is a knack to dismantling these mirrors such as the application of heat...? Thanks Myles
  23. Hi, Has anyone installed a 3rd Brake Light on a TR4 surrey top? If so, what has been your experince of this and which light did you buy? Thanks Myles
  24. Hello, I have a '64 TR4 with a vent in the petrol cap and at a recent rally the scrutineer pulled me up on this and suggested that I plug the hole in the cap and install a vent thet passes through the floor of the car with a non return valve on the end. Has anyone done this and how and where did you attach the vent to the tank? I would prefer not to have to invest in an early TR4 tank if at all possible. Thanks Myles
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