[Camshaft Core Plug]

Thanks Chris - sorted now.

[Camshaft Core Plug]

Hi,

I'm about to refit the cam coreplug on my TR4 engine after the bearings have been replaced.  I'd assumed that the domed side faces outwards and you give it a good whack to seal, however the plug seems slightly too large for the hole although it does seem to be the right size dome side in.  So before I force it in, just checking that the dome side does indeed face outwards on this core plug...?

Thanks

Myles

[Glass Channel Replacement]

Hi, 

The rear glass channel on one of my doors is broken (the channel has come away from the fixings and was lying in the bottom of the door).  Does anyone know if it is possible to fit a new channel without removing the glass from the door?  Trying to avoid having to remove the window seals if possible.

Thanks

Myles

[Door Hinges]

Hi All, The passenger side of my TR4 (ex US car so this was the driver's door for most of the car's life) does not shut well.  It needs s good slam and even then does not close well.  There is some play in the hinges but I was wondering how much is normal?  Should there be no play at all or is some acceptable?  I'm thinking to replace the hinges anyway (or refurbish the old ones but this seems tricky) but want to get quality replacements - does anyone know who stocks the bastuck ones?

Thanks

Myles

[Machining Liners]

Thanks all for your help on this topic.  I had another read of Kastner's book and the technicalities material to help understand the issue.  Given that I'm not building a race car I've come to the conclusion that I won't need to machine the liner tops.

One other question though - I still need to decide on the CR.  I'm not planning to deck the pistons but I do have a choice on head gasket.  What is the recommended head gasket for a non race spec engine with 89 mm pistons?  Composite or copper?

Thanks

Myles

[Machining Liners]

Hi

I’m rebuilding my TR4 engine at the moment with 89mm liners, trgb piper yellow cam and stage 2 head. I read somewhere on the forum (though can’t find it now) that I should machine a 45 degree angle in the top of the liners for best results.  Is this something I should ask the machine shop to do?

Also when I dropped the head off I was asked what compression ratio I wanted.  What is the common wisdom?  The car will be rallied/hillclimbed but I drive the car to/from events so am so looking for something which will be ok to drive in traffic.  My thoughts at the moment are to leave the CR more or less stock as I believe I’ll get a little bit of an increase with the 89mm pistons anyway? 

Thanks

Myles

[TR4 Rear Ride Height]

Hi,

I've been uprating the suspension on my TR4 and it looks like the rear of the car now needs to be lowered by approx 1" following the changes.  I've read on other posts that I can solve this with longer shackles on the rear springs (I assume 1" longer?).  Does anyone know where I can get these or where I can get them made?

Thanks

Myles

[Bullet Connector Location]

Thank Richard.  I see it now.

[Bullet Connector Location]

Hi, I’m trying to wire in my hazard switch and looking for the double bullet connector with the feed (green wire) from the voltage stabiliser input and the output to the wipers and the flasher unit.  Can somebody me let me know where this bullet connector is located in the car?  

Thanks

Myles 

[Hazards & LEDs]

Hi - A quick question for the electrical engineers and experts out there.  If I fit LED bulbs and associated solid state flasher relay, can I also use the same flasher relay for hazards or do i need a 2nd flasher relay for the hazards?  I am thinking that I can get away with one as the solid state relay is load independent?

Thanks

Myles

[TR4 Door Seals]

Hi,

So my TR4 has the door seal with a a fuzzy that runs around both doors and over the backlight, and a channel for the rubber seal.  I've never bothered with the seal until recently when I was out in the wet and thought I should really get them sorted.  I bought a seal from the TRF in the US, and also a seal from Moss which were recommended as ones that fit.  I fitted both seals however with both I needed to give the door a huge slam to get it to shut properly.  Even then it pops out again when I'm driving.  I know this is a common problem which is why I thought I would buy what are supposed to be the best fitting seals.  So I am now thinking about 'trimming' a piece out of the seal where the problem appears to be, which is either in the front of the door aperture, or the front bottom corner.  I know that I could move the later TR6 style integrated fuzzy/seal combo but want to exhaust what I already have first.  Has anyone cut these seals and if so, any guidance on where the problem is most likely to lie?

Thanks

Myles

[Welding Suspension Turret Nuts]

Hi - I'm talking about the ones in the top of the turret that attach the top fulcrum to the turret.  Wanting to install an adjustable top fulcrum to improve the camber and it's recommended to weld the nuts so you can set it up with out removing the springs each time.

[Welding Suspension Turret Nuts]

Hi,

Has anyone welded the top fulcrum nuts on a TR4?  My memory is that there's not much space in there, and I would be doing this with the car on jack stands and the suspension dropped.  Trying to work out if I can do this myself, get a mobile welder to do it or if I need to take the car somewhere.

Thanks

Myles

[SU HS6 Tuning]

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice on tuning HS6 carbs on a TR4.  I've always been concerned the car was running rich, so when the front bowl began to leak from the jet connection at the base I decided to check the settings on the carbs (following re-setting the tappets, timing and points).  My question revolves around the level in the jets - I've set the float height to 3/16" from the top (plastic floats) when the lid is upside down in both carbs.  However the fuel level in the front carb is probably 1/8" or so below the bridge, and in the rear carb greater that 1/2" below the bridge.  I assume that a large part of this is because the engine is on a slant and the front float bowl is above the carb, whilst the rear one is below.  First question is whether this matters or not and whether I should strive for them both to be at the same height?  And secondly, does this mean that the jet in the front carb should be set at a different height from the rear?  Or are these two things independent?  The standard tuning method the Tuning book recommends having the jets at the same height so assuming the latter?

Thanks for any advice from the SU experts out there.

Myles

[Front Inner Fulcrum Bushes]

Hello,

I need to replace the upper inner fulcrum bushes on my TR4.  My question is whether I need to remove the spring to do this, or just compress it in situ.  I have the proper spring Triumph compressor that goes through the centre of the spring and i am thinking that once compressed, there should no longer be any tension on the upper arms, as the tension is taken by the spring compressor and I can safely change the bushes.  Is this correct or am I missing something...?

Thanks

Myles

[TR4 Adjustable Top Fulcrums]

Hi,

I’m in the process of installing adjustable top fulcrums on my TR4.  Looking at the top of the suspension turret, it does not appear totally flat, but has a ‘kink’ in it as you go towards the centre of the car.  This means that when you push the fulcrum inwards to create negative camber the fulcum rides up the ‘V’ and no longer contacts the turret along its full length, only contacting at the ends.  I can’t believe it is designed link this so I’m thinking I’m doing something wrong.  Has anyone installed these on a TR4 and experienced the same issue?  Hoping my explanation is clear!

Thanks

Myles

[Rear Springs]

Hello,

I’m looking for a set of stiffer rear springs for my 64 TR4.  It has the deep dish springs but I seem to only be able to find the earlier flatter type in a stiffer spec.  Do you know if I can covert my car to the earlier springs?  I have the plates etc so could do it if if the springs are the same length (I know the really early ones are different).  Alternatively do you know of a supplier that makes the deep dish spring in an uprated spec?

Thanks

Myles

[TR4 Wingard Mirror]

Hello,

My 64 TR4 has a wingard mirror, which I believe is orginal to the car.  Last time I dismatled one of these I managed to crack the sleeves and mounting when removing the stalk.  I’m now trying to combne two mirrors to make one good one however I’m nervous of cracking the good sleeves and mounting again.  Does anyone know if there is a knack to dismantling these mirrors such as the application of heat...?

Thanks

Myles

[3rd Brake Light]

Hi,

Has anyone installed a 3rd Brake Light on a TR4 surrey top?  If so, what has been your experince of this and which light did you buy?

Thanks

Myles

[Vented TR4 Tank]

Hello,

 

I have a '64 TR4 with a vent in the petrol cap and at a recent rally the scrutineer pulled me up on this and suggested that I plug the hole in the cap and install a vent thet passes through the floor of the car with a non return valve on the end. Has anyone done this and how and where did you attach the vent to the tank? I would prefer not to have to invest in an early TR4 tank if at all possible.

 

Thanks

 

Myles

[TR4 Fog Lights]

Hello

 

The front fog lights on my TR4 are currently wired from the headlight switch through another switch and then to a relay to the front fogs. I would like to change them so that they will only come on when the headlights are on full beam. I'm therefore thinking about taking a feed off the full beam warning light to the fog light switch and onwards to the relay. As there is a relay, the current should not be that great through the fog light switch. Does anyone see any problems with the setup? I'm not keen to take a feed straight off the dip switch unless I really have too as it's tough to get three wires onto one spade. Any views welcome...

 

Thanks

 

Myles

[TR4 Edge Alternator]

Thanks for the help with this. Looks like I am not alone with the misalignment issue. My previous set-up had a GE alternator with home made fixings using a long bolt, copper pipe and washers. I hoped that by going for the proper kit it would just bolt straight in in the right place. So looks like it's off to the machine shop to shave ~2mm off the large spacer.

 

Myles

[TR4 Edge Alternator]

Hello

 

I am just installing a lightweight edge alternator on my TR4 which came from TR Enterprises. It comes with a spindle to connect to the existing dynamo bracket. When installed it looks like the alternator pulley is slightly forward of the water pump and crank but this may be an optical illusion. Has anyone else had this with these alternators and spindles?

 

Thanks

 

Myles

[Speedo & Rev Counter Cables]

Hello

 

So on the way back from a long trip today the rev counter on my TR4 starts to go nuts (but not the revs...) and some years ago I had the same issue on my TR3. Cause that time was a faulty cable and I was told that the new cables are poor quality compared to the originals. Given that my rev counter cable is not that old, does anyone know of a supplier that supplies good quality cables that are known to work? Only want to do this replacement once...

 

Thanks

 

Myles

[TR4 Hesitation]

Thanks for your advice on my issue - Well the hesitation went to a full stop last night stranding me on the side of the road. After a bit of trouble shooting turns out the issue was the rotor arm which is annoying as I had a spare known good one in the boot... Looks like I'll be ordering another one from the distributor doctor (who hadn't supplied the faulty one btw).