woodward
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Posts posted by woodward
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Hi All,
I have a spare steering rack which was sold to me as a TR4 rack but which I think is spitfire rack from the shape of the pinion housing (see photo) - can anyone verify this? Either way, the length is too short for a TR4 rack so I plan to change the ball joints and replace them with a set I have from a known TR4 LHD rack. Assuming this is a Spitfire rack, anyone see any issues with this?
Thanks
Myles
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Thanks all for your suggestions - new diaphragm installed (hopefully ethanol resistant) and seems to have cured it for now...
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So my SU fuel pump has started weeping fuel which is manifesting itself by having fuel on top of the pump after driving (didn't seem to be there whilst driving). All the connections seem tight and having removed the pump all the internals look visibly good. In the past I have replaced the diaphragm but not the two valves in the pump which are probably original by the look of them (staked in four places). Could theses valve be the cause of my problem or can I get away with just replacing the diaphragm? Longer term I'm going to upgrade to an electric pump but plan to refurb this one for the short term so I can get back on the road.
Myles
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Thanks Rob however if I want to wire the relay from the coil so that the pump cuts out when the engine stalls etc can I wire the green wire in your diagram above from the coil or do I need a special relay for this? Given that the feed will be going on and off, albeit quickly.
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I know this is an old thread but I am looking to replace my mechanical SU pump with a Huco one as I'm fed up with the leaks on the cover of the SU. I plan to wire the pump off the coil using the Huco 132020 fuel pump relay but this seems to be unavailable at the moment. I assume that there is a generic version of this relay which looks to be 5 pin - can someone more knowledgeable point me to an alternative relay I would fit in place of the Huco one?
Thanks
Myles
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Thanks both - I have spoken to Dan already but they have no space for several months as they only have Carl in the workshop at the moment….
Myles
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Hi,
Does anyone know of a company that will replace windscreen glass in a TR4? I'm struggling to find someone as all the major companies only seem interested in insurance jobs. I have found one but they keep slipping my appointment as they're too busy. I'm in the Bath/Bristol area and can travel a bit if needed. I did try the local TR group but no luck. Thanks in advance for any recommendations you have.
Thanks
Myles
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Thanks Bob - yes, I have a strobe.
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Hi All,
The engine on my TR4 is now running having been apart over the winter. However on start up I had to turn the idle screws in (HS6) about four turns to get the car to idle and even then it would not respond to the throttle at all. So I set about checking the ignition timing - rotating the distributor clockwise resulted in the revs rising to over 2500 rpm and the engine sounding a lot better. As the car has a piper yellow cam I can't use (I don't think) the stock timing numbers from the manual to time it. I was sure that I had set up the rotor arm to point at number 1 on the compression stroke when the car was put together, but now I find myself having to rotate the distributor so the vacuum is pointing towards the engine (and feel it could go further). I am now thinking that I have installed the distributor 180 degrees out - could this be the cause? Is what I have experienced a symptom of this? Grateful for any advice - just need to get it running well enough to get the car to a garage for a proper tune.
Thanks
Myles
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Thanks for your help Peter. I did what you recommended but no improvement so looks like I need a new starter.
Myles
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Hi All,
Having spent a couple of months putting my TR4 back together I had hoped to start it this weekend. However, when I went to turn the engine over, all I got was a loud click from the solenoid (not the one on the starter but the one on the car). Tightening all the cables, earth straps etc did not help. Battery was fully charged. So I removed the starter from the car and decided to bench test it using a couple of jump leads and a spare battery. I also spun the pinion by hand. This time there was some movement - the pinion moved out a few mm then stopped and did not spin. Anyone had this issue before and know any solutions/causes? Else I'll need to order a new one after the weekend (or find an auto electrician). It's a powerlite type unit which I bought from Moss quite a few years ago.
Thanks for any advice you can give.
Thanks
Myles
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Hi All,
Trying to fit my new grille to my new front valance. The lower screws are all on but the upper looks like this. Could be solved by pulling the upper part of the grille away from the valance. Or it could be that the tabs on the top are not correct. Or something else completely. Any suggestions what to do?
Thanks
Myles
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Hi,
Has anyone fitted a TR4 repro cross tube from Moss - do they fit? I'm struggling to fit mine - usually jacking up under the front of the chassis widens the turrets enough to get the cross tube in however even after this I am struggling to get it to fit. I'd be grateful if anyone who has experience of these repros could let me know if they fit before I do anything drastic....
Thanks
Myles
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When Revington were tuning my newly built engine they had to replace the needles with AUD1291 RH needles to get the car to run well. I didn’t have the issues you’re talking about but this info might be useful for you nonetheless.
Myles
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Hi All,
I have the wiring loom out of my car and am taking the opportunity to upgrade to a modern 16-way fuse box whith every component fused separately via the modern blade type fuses. Can anyone who has done this let me what what amperage fuses I should be using? 10A?
Thanks
Myles
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Hi - I'm looking for a good L/H steel front wing to replace an accident damaged one. Mine is damaged at the front so would be open to a wing which was not so good at the rear. Please PM me if you're able to help me out...
Thanks
Myles
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Thanks for your suggestions all. I re-torqued the head, changed the offending spark plug for a known good old one and removed the PCV valve apparatus from the head. No more white smoke or oil on the plug so some progress there. Thinking the PCV valve was the cause of the smoke and torquing the head solved the oily plug. The car's still not running great (thinking carb setup but could also be the other plugs) so the car's now gone to a specialist for them to set it up properly for me.
Myles
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Hi,
I'm struggling to get my newly rebuilt engine to run well so I'm reaching out for some advice. The engine runs but doesn't sound great (like a tractor but that could be the exhaust which I think is leaking at the joint in the cross member - no unusual noises though) and more vibration that I would want on tick over. The car drives (only been driven a few hundred metres so far) - but there is quite some white smoke on acceleration (and sometimes tickover) but not all the time. The car has a newly rebuilt Peter Burgess stage 2 head and new 89mm pistons/liners with piper yellow cam. The car has Morris SAE30 running in oil in it at the moment. Compression has been checked at 145 psi in all cylinders. Timing and valve clearances checked multiple times. When I pull the plugs #4 looks wet (I think oil) but the others all look ok. No sign of any oil in the coolant or vice-versa.
The question is what should I do next? Options I am thinking of - (1) change the oil to 20/50 (which I think is thicker, than the SAE30) (2) remove the rad/timing cover and check that I have the cam timing right. Any other thoughts? Is what I'm proposing worth it? I'll also be getting some smaller mikalor clamps as i think the ones I have may be to large (51-55mm for 2 inch pipe).
Thanks
Myles
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Thanks Ian - the gasket came from TRGB. Could they be the same…?
Myles
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Hi,
I'm about to put the head back on my rebuilt engine and plan to use a composite gasket (the black one with the read stripe on it) because I've upgraded to 89mm pistons. Last time I took the head off I used a payen gasket and sealed it with Copper Coat which worked very well. My question is whether I can also use this copper coat on the composite gasket aswell? Alternatives would be wellseal, hylomar (I have this in spray form) or none at all. What is the advice on copper coat...?
Thanks
Myles
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Thanks Roger. Another question, slightly different topic - what is the sealant of choice for the rear oil seal housings (Marx type)? Wellseal or Hylomar?
Myles
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Thanks Chris - sorted now.
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Hi,
I'm about to refit the cam coreplug on my TR4 engine after the bearings have been replaced. I'd assumed that the domed side faces outwards and you give it a good whack to seal, however the plug seems slightly too large for the hole although it does seem to be the right size dome side in. So before I force it in, just checking that the dome side does indeed face outwards on this core plug...?
Thanks
Myles
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Hi,
The rear glass channel on one of my doors is broken (the channel has come away from the fixings and was lying in the bottom of the door). Does anyone know if it is possible to fit a new channel without removing the glass from the door? Trying to avoid having to remove the window seals if possible.
Thanks
Myles
Spinning Wheel Nut
in General TR Technical
Posted
Hi,
I took my new TR4 to get new tyres and one of the rear wheel nuts is spinning…. It also happens to be the one with the special anti-theft wheel nut on it. What is the best way to deal with this? Is drilling it out the only option? Can I access the back of the stud with the wheel still on…? Maybe I could grind off the back or weld it to the hub? Any suggestions gratefully received!
Thanks
Myles