foster461
-
Content Count
8,270 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by foster461
-
-
If the US cap is fitted with the hinge facing the front of the car the latch at the rear of the cap will hit the boot lid when it is opened. So the lid only works with the hinge on one side or the other. Pick the side based on where you like to pull up at the gas pump. I usually have the pump on my right so I have the hinge on the left so I'm not trying to navigate around the lid with the nozzle. I think the smaller UK cap looks neater, I dont know why we had to have a bigger cap other than to make it look more like a le mans racer to make up for the lost 30 horsepower.
Stan
-
Perhaps Raymond is tired of that Morgan and will buy it back.
-
It has a TR Reg sticker on the windshield so I assume there is some history in the records. Other than the bullet mirrors it looks ok to me based on what we can see.
Stan
-
I'm on what feels like day 47 of my TR6 soft top installation. After you have read every blog on this topic and watched some really bad youtube video you realise there is still a lot of important detail left out.
Hope to wrap it up tomorrow.
-
11 hours ago, Z320 said:
Hi Mick,
yes indeed it did! Very cold and fresh while 35 deg. C at the garage.
I'm absolutely pleased about your comment because I asked myself: will anyone realize the white wine on the photo...?!?
Salute! Marco
It was the first thing that I noticed.
-
2 hours ago, peejay4A said:
Any contra-indications of D3 alongside heart meds; ACE inhibitors, beta blockers, anticoagulants etc?
I take all of the above and more in addition to 2000 IU of D3 and I'm not aware of any issues and also it has never been questioned during dr visits.
Stan
-
Roger, Roger.
-
7 hours ago, DanTR6 said:
Nope, no point pretending its something its not
I just drive my other Triumph if I want the sound of the sweet straight 6 :-)
The Ford F150 v6 ecoboost is very quiet other than the whine of the twin turbos when you step on it so Ford sends the sound of a V8 through the truck audio system.
Very much looking forward to the article Dan.
Stan
-
Ian, I dont think you need anything more sophisticated than your engine stand. I recall reading somewhere that one grade 8 bolt has enough tensile strength to support the weight of the engine and you will have four. Best of luck getting that twin cam motor in the TR.
Stan
-
That assembly comes apart pretty easily and even if you plan to replace the whole thing it would be good to strip it down, check the condition of the bushes, give it a lick of paint and reassemble with some lube.
Stan
-
Ok Stuart that makes sense. I have probably moved the front of the fan extension 3/4 inches further away from the drag link.
Stan
-
There is a lot of detail that you need to know when rebuilding one of these engines. Ring gaps is just one of many. I think it is all covered in this forum but not all in one place.
Stan
-
I dont think aligning the crank orifices has changed much re fan belt replacement. There seems to be ample clearance between the fan extension and the radiator so I assume the wide fan belt has issues elsewhere like the cross brace.
-
Good question Rod. The engine did visibly move obviously but in the end all I did was bring everything into alignment they way it likely left the factory. I'll take a look later today and see if the prospects for getting the wide fan belt off have improved. I may have made that task worse if the crank extension is now closer to the radiator.
Stan
-
Two more shims was too much, i guess the pivot point is about a foot or so behind the end of the fan extension so a 1/16 rise at the engine mount results in a > 1/16 rise at the front.
Crank now engages with a total of three shims, still have two more shims in the event that things settle. Inserting the first pair of shims took almost two hours. Inserting the third shims took 30 mins.
Stan
-
Great poster Dan. Now you have a digital copy that will never fade.
Stan
-
29 minutes ago, RobH said:
A word of warning though - don't overtighten that gland nut - it's only brass and splits quite easily if you use too much force. (guess how I know....)
Very true Rob and I wonder if over tightening will cause leaks if that compression sleeve gets distorted.
-
I missed seeing you Hamish but I did watch some of the event for around 30 mins ( thanks for the link Kevin) and got to see the faster cars like Porche 911's finishing in the low 30's and the single seater cars 10 second faster. 41.20 is a great achievement.
Stan
-
2 hours ago, EliTR6 said:
It took me a few days to wrap my thick head around it. Once you know, you know!
I've learnt a shed load thanks to the forum. Every night I go to bed a little wiser!
I think I've found my oil leak : the steering box
Check how tight that nut is. The only thing keeping the oil in the steering box is a brass compression sleeve held in place by that nut thing. If the nut is snugged up the compression sleeve may need replacing.
Stan
-
Memo to self. The next time you do a TR3 project, sort out the engine alignment before you put the body back on the frame.
So I spent a couple of hours today inserting some shims to lift the engine in an attempt to get the correct alignment with the grill, crank guide, radiator hole and the fan extension. Just figuring out how to do that was an achievement as on the LHD car the left hand engine mount is buried under steering bits, radiator bottom hose bits etc. Anyway now I know where to access the mounts and what tools to use the next time will be easier.
There will be a next time because even though I inserted two shims each side and lifted the mounts about 1/8 inch it was apparently not enough as after the engine settled I could still not get the crank into the fan extension. However I did make a template of one of the shims so I can make more.
I should have done this while I had the body off the frame. Shove the crank through the rad hole and if it engages with the handle anything but horizontal fix it then and not after the body is installed.
What do you think one or two more shims ?
-
If nothing else they will stop you from getting bounced out of the car when you go over the slightest bump.
Stan
-
I think these old gearboxes just get worn and what might have been a step 60 years ago is now a smoother transition. My TR6 and TR3a are both LHD which requires a different push motion rather than a pull but on both cars I just give the gearstick a backhand thump and they go into reverse with no drama.
Stan
-
4 hours ago, TwinCamJohn said:
Did you test the bed ?
Ha, just as we had started to elevate the tone of this forum.
-
I can sympathize. At 5' 6" and shrinking I have the seat all the way forward and I'm fully extended to operate the clutch. I find it manageable but if it was any worse I would bend the clutch pedal arm to move the pedal closer. I blame chain smoking parents and poor 1950's nutrition.
Stan
New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Not critical but the original two tone windtone horns are quite something. When I get my TR3a inspected every year I have to warn the guys at the local garage because it sounds like a semi approaching if you lean on the horn button for more than a second.
Stan