foster461
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Posts posted by foster461
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It happens more than I would like here. Our cars are small, low down and dont have many of the visual cues that people are expecting. In addition people are paying less attention to the task at hand and more attention to who is liking their post on Facebook. Many of us fit a high viz LED brake light and I have a habit when I have to stop at an intersection to keep my foot on the brake until I see the vehicle behind slowing down.
Stan
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Fantastic. Where is that darn Like button.
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Car looks good Sean, you have some great roads to enjoy it, it has an interesting history and you are making good progress with getting it sorted. TR6 ownership at its finest.
Stan
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I think if you measure back 3 inches from the lip on a line perpendicular to the bolt holdling down the tonneau pegs you will be well into the hole. I think I would stick a scalpel blade through the pad at that point and find the edges. As pointed out already, dont go too deep and yes, if you ever need to change the leather washer in the oil gauge line this is the way to go. Good luck, let us know the outcome.
Stan
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I'm pretty sure it is just vinyl over stiff molded foam Ray. I pulled my ashtray out so you can see what it looks like.
This is not the original dash pad but one from TRF in 1990 ish so I expect it to be a good repro. Funky reflections because I shot it through the windshield.
Stan
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After breaking a new Triplex screen (it cracked overnight on a cold winters day) I bought a repro at half the price. It looked good and fitted ok but the glass was noticeably thinner. Never driven it in the rain so no idea if it leaks or not but since the rubber seal to the scuttle also isnt fitting properly the screen glass leaking is moot.
Stan
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Re the fuel level, you are correct that this is critical and you need to start there or everything else will get thrown off. I have never set float height with the engine running but I also dont have one of those sighting gizmos. Tom Fremont does though.
Stan
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I think what I did is pretty typical. I blocked the port in the thermostat housing with another temp sender (I recently learned that a spark plug also fits... ) And I used a PI version of the solid line from the water pump housing to the heater. The PI version does not have the extra T in it.
Stan
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From a previous thread on great British TV shows we have been working through the long list and we are currently watching the delightful but short series The Detectorists and to my surprise (in addition to the yellow TR7) was Dianna Rigg as the mother in law and her real life daughter Rachael Stirling as Becky. Really like this series and a treat to see Dianna Rigg and how much of her is in her daughter.
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Pictures ?
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Happy birthday Richard. Hope you had a great day and got to drive your TR3a
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I snipped the sign on the wall and then processed the image so I could read it. Google maps did the rest. Of course it was raining the day that old picture was taken. The Lake district in November.
Stan
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7 minutes ago, Charlie D said:
Your eyesight must be a lot better than mine !
Go on then, don't keep it a secret.
(And how did you work it out?)
When ever I see pictures like this I go and try and find them on Google earth, just to see how they have changed.
No luck yet with this one.
Charlie.
I assume this is the same place.
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Guy, nice to see you back here. We have missed you.
I did that same repair on my left front wing. Quite an ordeal doing it for the first time even with a lot of guidance from Stuart.
I also have at least one front wing in the basement that has not been terribly molested if you can show us what you want to see. Generally as Ralph says the rear edge just follows the shape of the door and the bottom edge needs to tuck under the sill at the bottom so it fits snug there and the bolt holes line up. If I were doing this again I would pay the $800 for a repro front wing and start with that or rather than try and fit the repair panel just replace the rotted out flat pieces and stay away from the wheel arch.
Stan
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That service station is still there, now a Gulf gas station.
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I would be surprised to hear of one of those just falling out. They get clamped pretty good between the body and the frame and then everything gets welded together with corrosion. They are usually accompanied by one or more rubber shims, perhaps they disintegrated and alowed this ally one to drop out. Since you have that one loose I would continue on and do a full frame up.
Stan
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Here's the description of the new UI
https://invisioncommunity.com/news/product-updates/45-introducing-our-updated-default-theme-r1198/
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When I rebuilt my TR6 engine, no sign of valve seat recession and I did not fit new valve seats. The TR3 had some serious valve seat recession and I had it machined for new hardened valve seats.
Stan
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Dont overtighten the trailing arm stud nuts when you reinstall or we will be having another discussion about helicoils.
Stan
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Hi Gordon and welcome. You have posted this in the TR6 section but perhaps one of the moderators could move it to the TR's reunited section where it may get more attention.
Stan
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11 minutes ago, Charlie D said:
If Mick were doing it he would insist that all the children were the same height above the ground (+ or – 3 thou.)
and after 500 days he would retorque the bolts holding the chains on. (Making sure that he undid the bolts ¼ turn first.)
Charlie.
And if he lubes before torquing back off the torque wrench 20%
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The splines do wear but more often it is one of the U joints or an inexperienced inspector who just grabbed a wheel and detected some movement and doesnt know the difference between end float, failing hub, worn u joint or worn splines.
Stan
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David, the theory is that crimping is better however for a good crimp connection all of the planets have to align - wire, connector, crimp tool, technique.
I have found I can reliably solder better than I can reliably crimp.
Stan
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David, I replaced the wiring loom during my TR3a project. It is a simple loom and once you figure out the layout of the major segments, how they are routed and what grommets they need to go through things pretty much fall into place. The two areas that need some attention in a standard LHD TR3a is the wiring behind the central instrument panel as there is a lot going on and there are several patch wires that may not appear on any wiring diagram. I think I documented most of not all of these. There is also the funky loop back connection near the RHS horn that exists because the loom is multi-handed and when used on a LHD car it needs to be configured correctly. We can help you when you get to that stage and wonder why you have two empty connectors. If you have other special stuff going on you will need to deal with that too but compared to a modern car this is a piece of cake.
Stan
Where did you drive to with your TR today
in TRs Out and About
Posted
Took the TR3a for a short drive around town. Foliage is starting to turn.