foster461
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Posts posted by foster461
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1 hour ago, DavidBee said:
If you begin to think of what you do as filming, then what you do will become films, short films, or just "shorts".
"Videos" to my mind, never spread their wings. They are two entirely different concepts... and practices.
One objection to this way of thinking about the moving image states that film stands for celluloid, whereas video and "video-ing" stands for digital.
But it doesn't! Video is also antiquated. It stood for video tape, i.e. magnetic tape. That became obsolescent 20 years ago.
To think in terms of a short film, is, admittedly, to think big. But, then, it seems to me that with a 4A front suspension, a TR6 'box, a 4:1 rear axle ratio, a Quaife limited slip, you are thinking big already, Hamish. And digital technology is easy, cheap, and readily available.
David, I'm sure we will all benefit from your expertise. I did a lot of promo videos during my working life, followed around by a crew that captured the interview with me and a lot of B footage. An all day thing that resulted in a three minute film.
Roger (Pogo) did a nice production with his son a couple of years ago. Lots of different camera positions that made the whole thing interesting and engaging. The difference between capturing a moment on video vs telling a story.
As Hamish is discovering capturing the raw video is the easy part and I like the storyboard idea, it makes you think about the story you want to tell.
Personally, I'm happy if people strap on a camera and upload the video. The shots of the cars and the local roads are priceless.
Stan
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There is not much lateral wiggle room in those hinges without making elongated holes in the bonnet and/or scuttle. I have a similar problem and I have opted not to fix it at this time. life is too short. Door will be easy to fix and repaint. Show us some pictures of the rusty bits.
Stan
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The most common leaks from the front are the timing chain cover and seal, the oil pan gasket and the block that spans the crankshaft with the often wood wedges at the sides. Clean everything up and see where the leak is, not forgetting that a leak in one place can lead to a puddle somewhere else.
Stan
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What device and software are you using for editing Hamish ?. There are some excellent free options like Shotcut that are very powerful but have a bit of a learning curve. That is what I have been using on a Windows 10 laptop for my video experiments.
Stan
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On 8/9/2020 at 3:10 PM, David Owen said:
So I have decided this one will be a daily driver, at least in the spring, cooler summer and fall. It is too much of a mish mash of parts to restore. I do want to paint it so I was wondering what the optimum strip down would be to do this without doing a complete frame off?
It looks pretty good from the pictures and a bit of patina is not a bad thing. You could take off the windshield, capping, easily removable chrome and then mask up the rest. To go beyond that would be removing wings etc and that will likely be a can of worms.
Whitewalls are not my cup of tea but they were a factory option so I'm not sure why some people have such a hard time over them.
Stan
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Loved the video Hamish and great job with the audio and the video. Also appreciate the tour of the Derbyshire countryside. I was encouraged that you can drive at 40 and 50mph with just the aeroscreen and not even a pair of sunglasses.
Stan
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I had no problem fitting this on my TR3a with the apron already in place. The hardest part was figuring out all the folds and which direction all the folds need to be. We painted it body color to give it some additional protection and to make it blend in.
Stan
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My TR6 halogen headlights are **** too. They have direct power from a relay. I added fog lamps and now I can see where I am going at night.
Stan
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13 minutes ago, stuart said:
That oil pressure is high enough, especially the 50 at idle hot, do you give it a quick blip of the throttle before shut down as that can leave a fair bit of oil up top that then trickles down the guides to burn on start up.
Stuart.
Nothing weird when I shut it of, just park it and turn the key. I'll leave it for a couple of days while I do some TR6 stuff in the cool garage and see what it does after sitting for a while.
Stan
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On 8/7/2020 at 8:30 AM, stuart said:
You live in a pretty flat area and havent really done huge amounts of hard driving with this car, I suspect it may have slightly glazed bores, in that clip its definitely blue smoke, What oil pressure do you have on startup?
Stuart
Oil pressure after a "cold" (it is 90 degrees F ambient today, probably closer to 100F in the trailer) start this morning was 70lbs at idle, going up a bit when I revved the engine to back it out of the trailer. In general the oil pressure stays at around 70lbs during normal running and drops back to 50lbs at a hot idle.
It has been a few days since I did the head re-torque where one head stud was clearly under torqued and I have not seen the cloud at startup since. It could be my imagination but the engine also seems to be running a couple of degrees cooler. I went out for 30 mins in varying traffic today and never saw the gauge even get to the half way point and it normally runs a little hotter than that on a hot day like today. Not quite ready to declare victory yet though, hard to believe all if that is coming from one under tightened head stud.
Stan
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You can bolt the drivers seat in just for a test drive before you commit and install the doghouse. It is just 6 bolts for the seat runner.
Stan
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Well it wasnt that kind of poof but since Alec often referred to my TR3 as poofta blue I'm going to run with it just for today.
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My door capping end caps fitted ok but I imagine they will rust over time. Your stainless solution looks good and would likely cover up more of the material poorly wrapped over the edge of the capping. Just need to be willing to drill that hole..
Stan
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That is hearbreakingly sad news and what an ordeal for Tom.
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6 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
I removed the long metal strip, scribed the wing top profile to it, ground off the excess to get the correct profile, re-swaged the crimps that slide into the beading with a flat punch where needed , painted it and refitted.
To get the strip out you need to 'un swage' the front end of the bead and slide out tabs then strip. I also painted all the tabs as they were mild steel on the beads I have.
Peter W
For that Peter I am going to declare you the winner !
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5 hours ago, RogerH said:
Keep up Stan
Roger
Yikes, I'm days behind with this one.
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15 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:
This afternoons job is to make the wing beads fit the wings whilst they are off and not yet painted. I have a shrinker stretcher so I am hoping I can use that to tease the long section into shape, which should make the eventual fitting a tad easier (I hope!).
Ralph.
That is what I used. It worked well and just left a few marks in that metal strip where the jaws of the stretcher grabbed it. Way better than cutting slots.
Stan
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And poof, the like/dislike buttons seem to be gone.
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Looks like Tony the OP is going to go for it. Looking forward to seeing the report of how it goes next week.
Stan
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Update. Out of curiosity I set the torque wrench to 80 flt lbs and put some tape around the socket and marked a line so I could monitor for any rotation. The first stud in the tightening sequence rotated at least 10 degrees before the torque wrenched clicked off at 80 ft lbs. All the others had no rotation at 80 ft lbs, none at 85 ft lbs, none at 90 ft lbs. I backed them all off in sequence and retorqued to 90 ft lbs.
Took it out for a longish drive just to make sure it was happy and that was uneventful other than heaps of fun driving a TR3a on a warm sunny day. These cars must have been a blast to drive in the 50's and early 60's while everyone else was driving Morris 1000's, Austin A30's or Ford 100E's. I'll let it sit in the driveway for a bit while we have some tea and see what it does when I start it to put it away for the day.
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2 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
Just to clarify, the cylinder head torque figures should be 105 lb ft, always have been. The reference to 110 lb was a typo I believe on another posters contribution. I didn’t correct it when spotted, my mistake I should have done, 105 lb is enough to give wussy owners a fit of the vapours never mind 110 lb !
Next time I have a scrap block I’ll destroy a thread or two In the block head stud holes by overtorquing at increasing poundages until the block cries enough. As stated the factory stud threads should be good for 120 lbs, so I’d hope the block material would stand at least that.
Sounds like you are about 3 lbs over that now Ian ! (If my Memory of lubed thread increase in torque Figures Are correct).
Mick Richards
The ARP instructions for the TR2 - TR4 head studs is to use their lube and torque to 110 ft lbs.
Stan
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Indeed Mick, hence my hesitation in bringing this up. I think to start I'm going to set the torque wrench to 90ft lbs and go around the head nuts and see if anything moves.
Stan
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21 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
Hi Stan, tell me you fitted the ARP studs and nuts dry and not lubricated, like Triumph have always done ?
Mick Richards
I'm pretty sure I followed the ARP instructions and used their lube but I did not torque the nuts to 110 ft lbs. I chickened out well before then, no lower than 90 ft lbs and no more than 100. Unfortunately I appear not to have made any notes at the time.
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I last topped up the dash pots at some unknown time in the past. Graham, I thought it smelled of oil but looking at that video I am beginning to wonder. To answer your question I have not yet re-torqued the head. It scared me to death when I installed the head, 100-105 lbs ft was a lot of force behind a long torque wrench and I was sure I was going to pull the stud out of the 60 year old block. They are ARP studs and nuts but I guess this motor has gone through a lot of cycles and I should pluck up the courage and do it. today.
Stan
Car Films
in Social Scene
Posted
That is pretty remarkable Hamish. So the video was captured separate from the audio and somehow synched up ? The commentary was really well done, love the humor. I wonder if that Rolls recovery vehicle survived..
Stan