Drewmotty
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Posts posted by Drewmotty
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Keep trying with the plugs out. It takes a long time to fill the oil filter and then raise pressure.
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I use the Penrite and like Iain buy it in a 20 litre drum. I find that the oil pressure varies less under various driving conditions. The formulation includes an inhibitor which thickens on surfaces exposed to air and protects them when the car is not in use for longer periods.
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My car today.
Read into that what you will.
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10 hours ago, Rocketman said:
32 or 34 chokes
I’ve tried 33mm chokes in place of the 30mm ones. As expected main jets larger than the 130s were required.
The larger chokes provided more of the same, small gains at the top end at the expense of a less smooth roll on at low/medium throttle and slower starting (I don’t have starting enrichment fitted).I reverted to the 30s and the car felt quicker on the road.
Accept that whatever you start with will only ever be a starting point and you will need to use rolling road data and considerable road testing to refine the setup to your personal requirements.
Saving grace is that it takes me much less than an hour to change from Webers back to SUs now that the SUs are converted to cable operation. -
Produces an extra 8-10hp on my lightly modified engine but only above about 3500 rpm. Below that it just uses more fuel for no gain over twin SUs.
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Idle Jet 55F9
Main jet 130
Emulsifier F15
Air Correction 180
Choke 30 mm
Aux Venturi 4.5
Float Needle 1.75
Pump Jet 45
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This one is supposed to be solvent resistant. https://eshop.wurth.co.uk/Pressure-sprayer-Solvent-resistant-PMPSPRBTL-PLA-EMPTY-1LTR/0891503001.sku/en/GB/GBP/
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You shouldn’t need an overflow bottle but a header tank may be useful.
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Thanks Stewart. I just need to find a hardtop to fit them to now.
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I use these from Toolstation.
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Has anyone seen brass cant rails before.
All the ones which I’ve seen before are anodized aluminium but I have a set which came off an original hard top many years ago and are chromed brass.
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Issue 13 of In the Garage covers fitting Jaguar tacho giblets into a TR6 rev counter shell.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gfmi37kp2i2m7hi/AAASxwvmDIEsBE20f9BgebfSa?dl=0
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Many moons ago I shaved the inner down flush with the spring and took a bit off the rounded spring edge to leave a flat against the washer and minimum clearance. I give them a quick spray lube every now and again when I’m under the car.
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Often caused by a dodgy rheostat. Turn it back and forth robustly to clean the track off. If that doesn’t work then short out the two wires on the back. If it still doesn’t work then you’re into tracing the supply back. As you don’t have any working it will most likely be a wire fallen off the supply on the back of the lighting switch.
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I do the same as you. The only other option would be to slit the tonneau to take the sidescreen mounts.
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2 hours ago, Hamish said:
Come on Andrew show us the after !!
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Thanks for the good wishes. Had a great day cleaning the TR4.
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Congratulations Mark on fitting, removing and refitting the glass without breaking it……and getting it right in the end. :-)
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I have two TRs insured for four drivers with the TRR scheme. Not the cheapest but great cover and service. When I did make a claim it was handled quickly and painlessly; that’s worth a lot.
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In the Garage Issue 1 :
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gfmi37kp2i2m7hi/AAASxwvmDIEsBE20f9BgebfSa?dl=0
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The ones I have fit from behind with the original flange recessed into the front of the pulley.
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1 hour ago, RogerH said:
Are none made in the UK anymore.
Roger
I believe that the Amsteer units are still Made in Britain.
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Lovely to drive….what the TR5 should have been.
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I won’t be matter at all. It’s sloppy manufacturing but there’s plenty of meat all around the pin.
Happy Birthday Bob Lebro
in Social Scene
Posted
Happy Birthday Bob. Have a great day.