Ade-TR4
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Posts posted by Ade-TR4
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Hi Mike,
Keep going!!!
I found that my project stalled until I had a "brave pill" and finally organised my mates to help lift off the body tub. No going back after that
There're some photos on my website thingy - Have a look.
Driving over Holme Moss at sunset last night was great...
Ade
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What's the point in having 6-cylinders if only (approximately) 4 of them ever work?
Ade
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The issue with servos sticking on when using silicone fluid can be got round by greasing the seals with "Molykote" silicone o-ring grease.
Had my mot-a-vac rebuilt 6 years ago and have used silicone fluid since the car was restored. Works fine (had sticking problem with a lockheed unit prior to mot-a-vac being fitted)
Cheers
ade
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Keep us posted Ben!!!
Cheers
Ade
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HI Tim,
Might be worth asking the Register if they want a scanned version for the archives/ technicalities?
Cheers
Ade
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Have you tried bleeding the oil pressure gauge line? There may be air trapped in there.
Ade
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I'd be interested too, but it probably wouldn't stop me grabbing the next set of 42DCOEs that pass my way...
I think the rolling road charges would be rather prohibitive too!
Anyone used RE Performance in Bury (M/Cr) for weber setup? They did my SUs a few years back and were pretty good.
Cheers
Ade
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When mine did the same the wheel nut had to be carefully dissected to remove the wheel.
Fit new ones and tack weld them in, rather than rely on peening: If you need to ever remove them, the weld can be ground-off.
Good luck!
Ade
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Hi Mark,
DVLA registered mine off the build date on the heritage certificate. Things may have changed since then though.
Good luck - keep us posted and welcome aboard
Ade
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Edited...
But just think - 60DCOEs... BRRRRRRRRRRUUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMM!
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Hi Mike,
The carbs are 40's DCOEs, but the manifolds are modern.
Still, while it all works don't mess!
Ade
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Hi Mike,
Correct 34mm main chokes.
I cobbled the basic settings off here:
http://www.tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm
Using the Canon manifolds and linkage, but would prefer something a bit more "period", if you know what I mean...
Cheers
Ade
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The 40s (40-DCOE-18s) on my 87mm "road" engine work beautifully for road driving where torque rather then eye-watering revs is needed.
red line on my engine is 5000rpm, with an occasional blip to 5500 if the urge takes me!
No flat spots and the engine will idle at 600rpm without problem, whereas with SUs it would idle only above 850rpm and was quite fluffy at low rev/ progression. This was despite a trip to the RR. Probable air leak somewhere...ho hum, it's sorted now with the Webers
Great find btw, they'll look (and "go") the business I'm sure!!!
Ade
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TRF one is very good and compresses much more easily than the ones I've tried from the usual suppliers.
Ade
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I have a Salisbury diff in mine and like the improvement in stability under acceleration and braking.
I retained the standard ratio CWP
Cheers
Ade
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Howdy!
Nice looking car - Enjoy
Ade
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For the temp gauge try changing the sender. I had two that gave different readings at the same water temp. One made the car "run hot" the other spot on
Ade
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Good luck Tony, keep an eye out for Andy and Ian in the 2002 BMW!
Ade
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Hi
Check whether the dims are for the early or late rack, and check you have the corresponding one!
Cheers
Adey
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Crack the union as described: My mot-a-vac has a separate bleed-nipple on the servo, not sure which manufacturers included one and which didn't!
Good luck - It can take a few goes to shift all the air from the system, but well worth persevering!
Cheers
Adey
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You should have no problems with a decent spring clutch. My car is in 135-140bhp bracket and is fine on the normal (good quality) clutch.
Will the gearbox is out, maybe look at getting the flywheel lightened and balanced etc?
Ade
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Have you bled the servo too? (Sorry if this is a dumb question!)
Ade
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As Paul says, It's very easy to mis-locate the manifold on the lugs. I had exactly the same issue!
Cheers
Ade
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You should only need a really thin smear, then resist the temptation to banjo the **** out of the bolts to get them tight.
You only need to compress the cork not crush it. New anti-rattle washers will help too.
I too had to resort to the cork gasket and it has worked well to iron-out the distortions in the sump (it's worth trying to flatten-out to worst of them if you can).
Cheers
Ade
New to the Forum - My 1963 Tr4
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Welcome Andy,
I was mid twenties when I started my TR4 restoration, 14 years later....
Car looks super - nice work lad!
Ade