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Posts posted by Ade-TR4
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Thanks Peter!
So, IF the endfloat is within tolerance it's a case of strip, new seals and back together as before? (with a double check to finish!)
BWs
Adey
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Hi all
Good news Adrian - glad it's back together.
Just before I start to tackle the same seal, how much brake disassembly is required?
Cheers
Adey
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Hi John
I assume timing etc is spot on? Worth double-checking before adjusting the carbs?
Rolling road sesh?
BWs
Adey
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I would have thought that they'll need polishing before anodising, and that would be awkward due to how thin the material is?
Chrome-effect paint?
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Thanks Stuart - missed that key bit of info!
Adey
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Hiya
I put mine on the N/S as the space on the O/S is quite crowded with carb etc etc.
The Mot-a-vac servo is excellent in use and with a more progressive feel compared to the Lockheed-repro type offerings from the usual places.
Ade
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I have a Mot-a-Vac unit and it's very good.
They crop up from time to time.
No problems with silicone fluid since rebuilding and greasing seals with MolyKote silicone grease.
Compared to previous Lockheed-type servo it is much less intrusive and still has good feedback. I have driven a rally-prep TR4 without a servo and the difference is noticeable.
Cheers
Ade
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Hi Michael
If you can get it scanned and an stl file, I can try and print it for you.
Cheers
Adey
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Electric project?
Sorry
I'll get me coat...
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Correct re: reduced dia btw
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According to the instructions, they go on the inner end.
Not sure why designed that way
Ade
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Hi All,
Done a TinkerCad mock-up of the spacer. STL file in case you want to print a physical copy.
I don't have a mic, so measurements with vernier calipers only.
Note that kit comes with several shims of 3, 5 and 10 thou.
Dodgy sketch included :/
Hope it's of use!
Adey
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The EZ-Carlift from Holden's is very good and can be fitted with castors to allow the car and lift to be moved around.
Good under-car access too.
Adey
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Thanks for the info
I have a set un-fitted, so can measure if needed
Adey
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Have any of you tried the spacer/ distance collar that has been made to fit between the bearing races?
I have a couple to fit, but haven't tried them yet.
Adey
PS: As Stuart said, fit the soaked-felt and then re-adjust a day or two later.
Cheers - Happy New Year btw (looking forward to the International this year already!)
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I've had silicone fluid in mine since it was rebuilt in 2004. The Mot-a-Vac servo is fine with it too (used Molykote grease on internal seals when rebuilding).
Hawk pads from Cambridge motorsport are recommended also.
Merry Christmas!
Adey
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If you can find a set of Twin-Valve lever arms, they are a very nice improvement over standard - I have them on my TR4 and the improvement is good!
TrTony occasionally has a set knocking about, there was a pair on ebay last week.
Cheers
Adey
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Hi Ron,
You won't hear any drum from the bonnet, just the lovely noise of the engine and carbs underneath
Also, avoid lifting the bonnet at the corners; grab it in the middle - It's a weighty panel and lifting it at the corners also contributes to the eventual bending.
cheers
Ade
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Hi John,
Welcome!
I rebuilt my car over 15 years ago - Fabulous fun
Photograph EVERYTHING before you dismantle it. Label parts, bag/ store them. Even if they're not going back on the car, they're a good reference.
There are good sources of info out there and these are handbuilt cars: How much you want to do depends on skills and how much you want to learn!
Enjoy!!!
Ade
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That looks great Tim.
Does it work like one of those bath-lifts one sees in the Sunday magazines???
Hope so, my crawling around under the car days are numbered - need some comfort (and help getting up!)
Ade
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I think the beam-axle cars started with "CTC" rather than "CT", maybe CTC52373L was a beam axle car? Could be an admin error at BMIHT?
I'm probably talking rubbish...
Adey
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Weird I know, but checked at my Dad's engineering shop - definitely out. Second set were OK.
Ade
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Had weird problems on my father-in-laws rebuilt engine. Could never get it running right - persistent timing problems. Turned out that the cam was 1-tooth-out on the timing chain...
Re: liners and Fo8s, when I replaced mine, the first set of liners were not parallel between machined seating surface and top of liner. It was the seating surface that was out, so couldn't be corrected simply by grinding top surface. Had to return for different set (which were then spot on).
Cheers
ade
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No prob - Hope it's an easy fix!
Tr4 Rear Axle seal replacement?
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Excellent!
I'll get the spanners warmed up for the weekend...
Thanks!
Adey