unclepete
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Posts posted by unclepete
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Thanks Stan.
I'll try some of those.
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On 11/20/2020 at 3:59 PM, Tom Fremont said:
closed pump bypass
On 11/22/2020 at 7:50 PM, foster461 said:Pump exhaust closed (made a big difference)
Guys
Is this the same thing?
I cannot find reference in any literature I have?
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On 11/22/2020 at 6:19 PM, Tom Fremont said:
If it were mine I'd get the head shaved to 9.400" thick
Hi Tom
I might not have mentioned earlier that it has a higher compression head fitted (219015 TR6 PI CR) with a Compression ratio of 9.5:1. I'll work with the existing Cam for the moment.
Reading all your recommendations and various Journals I have put together the following set-up from the bits I have.
30mm main venturi, 4.5 Aux Vent, 125 Main jet, F9/50 Idle Jet, 180 Air Corrector Jet, F7 Emulsion tubes. I have managed to source and am waiting for F4/60 idle jets.
After checking all the fuel levels and screw settings, I ran her up yesterday. She started OK with plenty of popping, so I initially wound all the idle screws out a 1/4 turn which calmed things down a bit! After warming her up, I then adjusted the idle screws on each cylinder by 'feel', once happy with this - and the air flow between carbs - and the tickover, I then put a Colourtune on each cylinder in turn. I was quite pleased how my 'Feel' setting and the Colourtune indication matched up at Idle. I took her for a run and was pleased with the progression and flat out phases, although I would say it's work in progress!
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16 hours ago, roy53 said:
1969cc ?????????????????????
Hi Roy
1969 TR6 CC USA car fitted with carbs. as against a CP, CF or CR.
I popped an endoscope down the inlet track of the manifold and all checked out OK by the way.
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110mm
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7 hours ago, John L said:
I presume you have this document?
Weber_DCOE_Tuning_White_Paper (1).pdf 96.98 kB · 6 downloads
Yes John.
Nowhere near as much fun as chatting on the Forum...
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17 hours ago, Tom Fremont said:
closed pump bypass
Hi Tom
Closed Pump Bypass?
Did you mean the Air Bypass?
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Thanks Tom and Tush
Bit more spec for you; 1969 CC engine with wide port 2500S head. Original CAM. Extractor Manifold.
Fuel level 29 - 30mm below collar of access cap.
175 needle, 115 main, 200 air corrector, F9/45 idle jet, F11 Emulsion - anything there make you raise your eyebrows?
The inlet manifold is a Bastuck with solid rod throttle linkage bar. I have installed adjustable rose jointed linkages to each carb, although this would seem to me, to make the connection solid between each carb! Is it advisable to have a little slack at fully closed throttle?
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Delving into the dark art of fitting triple Webers to the 6 Pot TRs reveals a huge combination of set ups!
I have 3 x 40 DCOEs 151s with 30mm Main venturi, 4.5 Auxiliary Venturi, 40 Pump Jets and F9/45 Idle Jets and standard progression holes, What combination of the following would give me a good start for tuning? Touring and Local Show stuff, definitely not Racing (although the odd track day might be fun). I have deliberately not put down what I have fitted already but have got the tick over slow running working nicely.
- Needle Valve size
- Air Corrector Jet size
- Main Jet size
- Emulsion Tube size/pattern.
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Take the dash out. Surprisingly uncomplicated but a magnet on a stick comes in handy. You can change the bulbs and drill a hole for a clock at the same time.
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Good unworn condition £200
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Good un-corroded condition £150
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MX5 slip over headrest wind breaker Tan. £25.00 ono. Shown fitted on my 6. I'll even dust it!
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On 11/6/2020 at 10:17 AM, roy53 said:
Im near by so could pop around to cast an eye over yours or you come here. Keeping 2m apart of corse
Roy
Have PMd you.
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On 9/25/2020 at 11:57 PM, foster461 said:
Re the fuel level, you are correct that this is critical and you need to start there or everything else will get thrown off. I have never set float height with the engine running but I also dont have one of those sighting gizmos. Tom Fremont does though.
I have set the fuel level height using a clear plastic tube from a WD40 tin!
Take out the main jet, drop in the tube and mark the tube at shoulder of the carb, lick finger and stick over end of tube, lift out carefully and see the fuel level, mark before you take your finger off and measure - Simples!
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On 11/5/2020 at 11:09 PM, ntc said:
4atdc ??? Should be 11btdc
Yes you are correct 11 BTDC for Static timing - 4 deg ATDC is at tick-over with Advance Retard vacuum tube removed.
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Update
I wish I had bought new carbs!
I cleaned the starter valves but mixed them up without realising how critical it is to keep them to their original orifices. Had 2 of the little s**s leaking fuel - on different carbs! As I have capped of the choke mechanisms, I made up some PTFE rings to seal the starter valves off. Now running much better and am now able to get the slow running mixture close enough to get me to a rolling road.
The tickover is very high and the best I've achieved is about 1200rpm! The electronic ignition is set at tickover at 4deg ATDC set with a strobe. With an extractor manifold and triple webers on a Bastuck inlet manifold, I think I've changed the characteristics of the engine enough to experiment with the Ignition Timing. Any ideas out there?
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On 11/25/2019 at 9:52 PM, InfinityJon said:
what’s the deal with Carbs? Can I change the engine to triple Webber’s? This is a CF US engine. Who do I talk to, what do I need to do. Do I need a New head? I obviously need a new inlet Manifold. I also assume I need New fuel pump etc.
If I can do a triple set up, do I need three Weber DCOE 40. Any other spec details?
Hi Jon
Been reading this thread with interest. I have a 69 US 6 brought back to the UK by Pete Fenlon. He did a body off restoration and converted her to right hand drive. He also fitted her with a J Type overdrive. Another project (TR250) took his fancy and I managed to persuade him to part with it nearly finished.
The Engine was rebuilt with a replacement head (later wide port) and the original inlet manifold (narrow port!) and Stromberg Carbs put on to get it through an MOT. I then drove it from Manchester to Southend on Sea (fingers and everything else crossed).
I finished and tidied the bodywork and had the outside resprayed. The engine compartment and boot were left original as although a bit scruffy was in excellent condition.
I replaced the inlet manifold with a later version (wide port) and fitted a pair of Strombergs from an 80s V8 Range Rover. New needles, electronic ignition and a bit of fettling got 122 BHP at the flywheel which I was quite pleased with.
An excellent Tour of France, incorporating the Race of the Ramparts at Angoleme in 2019 convinced me that I needed to change the Diff from 3.7 to 3.45. With thanks to Richard Crewe Read and Pete Buckles, I fitted this in October 2019 and looked forward to Touring and Shows in 2020. Well Covid put paid to that idea! This is when the thought of upping the power of the 6 crossed my mind.
When having the car on a rolling road one of the comments I took note of " I should ditch that exhaust manifold, if I were you and fit a nice extractor one!" I looked at a number of exhaust options and an extractor manifold was looking overly expensive until I came across a 2 piece Bastuck sports system 6>3>1 back into 2 to connect up with the existing stainless back pipes. for under 400 Euros! plus another 35 for shipping. I was very impressed with the quality of the manufacture and the excellent fit.
I have purchased an Triple Weber inlet manifold from Bastuck on the strength of the quality of their exhaust system and I am not disappointed. A very robust unit nicely cast with smooth linkages for each carb, although I swapped these for rose joints rather than the ball ended ones supplied.
I managed to acquire 3 DCOE 40s on this site and have rebuilt them myself. I am now moving the Clutch Master cylinder to the top of the baulk-head, to give the carbs room. I am initially going to run the carbs off the mechanical fuel pump. I will not be running flat out for any length of time and don't fancy the faff of fitting a fuel pump.
I haven't run it up yet
and if it fails miserably, I'll probably go down the EFI route 
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Thanks Guys,
I haven't run her up as yet and am going to operate on the mechanical fuel pump to start with.
I can pump fuel into the carbs manually and check fuel level without the engine running, see how that goes and then check it when (if) I get it running.
I'll keep you posted on how that compares.
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On 8/5/2020 at 12:20 AM, foster461 said:
When I did the Weber conversion I stuck another temperature sensor in that hole. It can serve as a backup in the event that the one on the other side fails. I didnt know it was the same thread as a spark plug. I think I would put an HT lead on that plug to really confuse people. 7 cylinder TR6 with one horizontal cylinder.
Stan
What about the other end? you can't quite see what you stuffed in there
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I am embarking on the rocky road of installing Triple Webers on my US TR6.
So far I have the Weber DCOE40s, Bastuck Inlet Manifold and Exhaust Extractor Manifold.
I have also read a huge amount of contributions on this Forum (many thanks). However one thing I cannot find is, what to do with the Original Carburettor Manifold Heater Pipe? Shall I Plug it or put in a bypass pipe?
Also, looking at the Kieth Franck white paper on tuning Webers, I did not realise how critical, setting up the fuel level is! His method of removing the main jets and putting in an optical fuel level gauge, while the car is running, seems very risky, anybody tried it? would you not get an accurate measurement while the engine is not running?
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Hi Kevin
Been reading this thread with interest. I have a 1970 US TR6 which came to me with a set of TR4 Strombergs fitted to a short inlet manifold.
All ran fine but I was not happy with the set up, especially the throttle linkages and the Inlet manifold.
I managed to track down the later inlet manifold (same as yours) which has a much more even, smoother gas flow to the head, just looking at it made sense.
I also managed to find a set of almost mint Zenith CD175's from a mid 80s Range Rover, which the owner had swapped out for a downdraft Holley, after 18 months of ownership and had sat in a plastic bag on a shelf for 30 years!
These later Zeniths have a cable operated choke on one carb with a balance pipe to the other one. They also have a shorter piston with bias adjustable needles, which I changed to B1AF from Burlen, after stripping, cleaning and checking both carbs.
I also sourced, fettled and fitted a much neater and smoother throttle linkage (part TR6 CF, part my own)
I capped off the breather connections on the Carb bodies. Pulled out the choke and turned her over, Well! you could have knocked me down with a feather, she started first time!! Revs were a little high, carbs unbalanced and mixture a bit rich, but good enough to get her up to temperature. The carbs were balanced, linkage adjusted and the mixture set with the Stromberg tool (allen key type - yes, there are 2 types of adjusting tool!). I then bit the bullet and took her out for an enthusiastic test run. Ran Noticeably smoother and revved freely, so I am very pleased.
Now comes the fun part! I fitted a flame trap to the crankcase breather, removed the Carb breather caps and connected, via a T piece, the crankcase breather outlet. She will not even try and start! even being up to temperature? Putting the caps back on the carbs and venting the Crankcase breather to atmosphere she then starts and runs without problem?
Any ideas anybody?
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Too late!
All done and up and running, seems fine.
10 degC ambient and left running on fast tick over for 1/2 hour.
I'm happy enough to leave it in for this year
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Dropping the H20 and going for waterless coolant!
Weber Recipe?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Situation so Far - Mk 2 PI head, Extractor Manifold, CP Camshaft 35,65,65,35, 30mm Venturi, Needle 175, Main 125, Air Cor 180, Emulsion F16 (tried the F7), Idle F4/60, Pump 40, Bleed nil.
Very pleased with running and about where I want to be. Gentle to brisk increase in Throttle, provides smooth response right up to 4500 rpm.(as far as I want to take it).
However if I stamp on the throttle there is a lot of hesitancy? I am thinking about increasing the Pump Jet? or reducing the Air Correction Jet?