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Everything posted by unclepete

  1. My Fault - I double checked the cast and stamped serial numbers and it is a CR Head on a CC Bottom End. No - There are no vacuum take offs on the Webers so I have ditched the Vacuum Advance.
  2. At last!!! I have been trying to get sense out of these Carbs for weeks now and now I've set the timing correctly, it all falls into place Thanks Guys for all your help and suggestions, I am now really pleased with the results. Next stop rolling road for a measure up, will keep you posted.
  3. Hi Tom Many thanks for that. I'll give those timing numbers a go in the morning....
  4. Hi NTC To clarify - I forget the Vacuum advance and Strobe set up at 800 rpm to 11 deg BTDC? Hi Tom - The F7s gave a similar result (hesitancy at full throttle) so I put the F16s in to see if there was any improvement. I have fitted Pump Bypasses that are rated nil/0 bleed-back. You will probably see from my recent posts, that I need to establish that the ignition timing is correct? I have been running the car at spec timing of 4 ATDC at idle, you will see in this post that NTC recommends, with the Vacuum advance disconnected, 11 deg BTDC. That is a big difference??
  5. Vacuum connected/disconnected? I do not have a Vacuum take off with the Webers!
  6. What about ignition timing? Book says at idle 4 deg ATDC with a strobe or 12 deg BTDC static. I have an electronic Power Spark ignition Dizzy with Vacuum Advance, the manufacturers have said that leaving the Vacuum Advance disconnected is not a problem. There is no vacuum take off with triple Webers, so what are your thoughts?
  7. Google - TR6 Brown Book You'll find PDF downloads of the original manual.
  8. Situation so Far - Mk 2 PI head, Extractor Manifold, CP Camshaft 35,65,65,35, 30mm Venturi, Needle 175, Main 125, Air Cor 180, Emulsion F16 (tried the F7), Idle F4/60, Pump 40, Bleed nil. Very pleased with running and about where I want to be. Gentle to brisk increase in Throttle, provides smooth response right up to 4500 rpm.(as far as I want to take it). However if I stamp on the throttle there is a lot of hesitancy? I am thinking about increasing the Pump Jet? or reducing the Air Correction Jet?
  9. Thanks Stan. I'll try some of those.
  10. Guys Is this the same thing? I cannot find reference in any literature I have?
  11. Hi Tom I might not have mentioned earlier that it has a higher compression head fitted (219015 TR6 PI CR) with a Compression ratio of 9.5:1. I'll work with the existing Cam for the moment. Reading all your recommendations and various Journals I have put together the following set-up from the bits I have. 30mm main venturi, 4.5 Aux Vent, 125 Main jet, F9/50 Idle Jet, 180 Air Corrector Jet, F7 Emulsion tubes. I have managed to source and am waiting for F4/60 idle jets. After checking all the fuel levels and screw settings, I ran her up yesterday. She started OK with plenty of
  12. Hi Roy 1969 TR6 CC USA car fitted with carbs. as against a CP, CF or CR. I popped an endoscope down the inlet track of the manifold and all checked out OK by the way.
  13. Yes John. Nowhere near as much fun as chatting on the Forum...
  14. Hi Tom Closed Pump Bypass? Did you mean the Air Bypass?
  15. Thanks Tom and Tush Bit more spec for you; 1969 CC engine with wide port 2500S head. Original CAM. Extractor Manifold. Fuel level 29 - 30mm below collar of access cap. 175 needle, 115 main, 200 air corrector, F9/45 idle jet, F11 Emulsion - anything there make you raise your eyebrows? The inlet manifold is a Bastuck with solid rod throttle linkage bar. I have installed adjustable rose jointed linkages to each carb, although this would seem to me, to make the connection solid between each carb! Is it advisable to have a little slack at fully closed throttle?
  16. Delving into the dark art of fitting triple Webers to the 6 Pot TRs reveals a huge combination of set ups! I have 3 x 40 DCOEs 151s with 30mm Main venturi, 4.5 Auxiliary Venturi, 40 Pump Jets and F9/45 Idle Jets and standard progression holes, What combination of the following would give me a good start for tuning? Touring and Local Show stuff, definitely not Racing (although the odd track day might be fun). I have deliberately not put down what I have fitted already but have got the tick over slow running working nicely. Needle Valve size Air Corrector Jet size Main Jet
  17. Take the dash out. Surprisingly uncomplicated but a magnet on a stick comes in handy. You can change the bulbs and drill a hole for a clock at the same time.
  18. I have set the fuel level height using a clear plastic tube from a WD40 tin! Take out the main jet, drop in the tube and mark the tube at shoulder of the carb, lick finger and stick over end of tube, lift out carefully and see the fuel level, mark before you take your finger off and measure - Simples!
  19. Yes you are correct 11 BTDC for Static timing - 4 deg ATDC is at tick-over with Advance Retard vacuum tube removed.
  20. Update I wish I had bought new carbs! I cleaned the starter valves but mixed them up without realising how critical it is to keep them to their original orifices. Had 2 of the little s**s leaking fuel - on different carbs! As I have capped of the choke mechanisms, I made up some PTFE rings to seal the starter valves off. Now running much better and am now able to get the slow running mixture close enough to get me to a rolling road. The tickover is very high and the best I've achieved is about 1200rpm! The electronic ignition is set at tickover at 4deg ATDC set with a strobe. W
  21. Hi Jon Been reading this thread with interest. I have a 69 US 6 brought back to the UK by Pete Fenlon. He did a body off restoration and converted her to right hand drive. He also fitted her with a J Type overdrive. Another project (TR250) took his fancy and I managed to persuade him to part with it nearly finished. The Engine was rebuilt with a replacement head (later wide port) and the original inlet manifold (narrow port!) and Stromberg Carbs put on to get it through an MOT. I then drove it from Manchester to Southend on Sea (fingers and everything else crossed). I finished a
  22. Thanks Guys, I haven't run her up as yet and am going to operate on the mechanical fuel pump to start with. I can pump fuel into the carbs manually and check fuel level without the engine running, see how that goes and then check it when (if) I get it running. I'll keep you posted on how that compares.
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