unclepete
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Posts posted by unclepete
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14 hours ago, JochemsTR said:
The sequential injection requires carefull consideration of the injection angle.
Hi Jochem
Surely Injection angle is fixed via the throttle bodies? Or am I misunderstanding you?
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5 hours ago, JochemsTR said:
Too much effort for no significant change. One seems to forget, these are 50 year old engines. I would love to see the Dyno Curve with and without sequential.
Hi Jochem
Dyno Curves - Are there any out there? There are some ECU's with a 'Self Learning' feature, seems ideal to me, not wanting to plug the ECU into a laptop every 5 minutes? 'Switchable Mapping' some ECU's have this feature enabling an engine to run completely different maps ie. one for road use and trackability, another for a snorting beast on a track day and maybe another for somewhere inbetween?
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On 7/31/2022 at 8:21 PM, marki said:
I’m also running an idle air control valve, starts just like a modern. You don’t even have to get in when it’s cold to start it.
Marki
Looking at your idle control valve and the 6 take offs to the throttle bodies, it looks like you are using the balance screws on the throttle bodies? I thought these were for fine tuning the air flow across each body, or is this not important?
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19 hours ago, FatJon said:
With a crank position sensor you can lose the entire distributor and fit a blanking plug.
I've already got a distributor so why lose it? Also what would drive my tacho?
If I fitted a crank position sensor, wouldn't I also need a Coil pack etc?
Is one system better than the other?
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Hi Richard
I'm not using an original retrofitted PI set up. The 6 Throttle bodies would be Jenvey or similar.
The above picture is Marki's set up by the way.
Ta Peter
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Hi Andrew
Thought I'd pose a few questions about EFI as I'm also considering going that route!
1. 6 Throttle bodies or Just 1 ?
2. Crank Position Sensor or Distributor Mounted Engine Position Sensor (hall effect)?
3. Which ECU? seems the consensus is Megasquirt or MaxxECU.
4. Idle Air Control Valve - Drill and tap the inlet Manifold or use the balance screws on the throttle body?
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Just seen this as not having sold in their last auction!
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On 5/13/2022 at 9:31 PM, ntc said:
As before 12 strobe at 800rpm
BTDC or ATDC?
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On 5/12/2022 at 8:24 AM, astontr6 said:
cut out all the farting about!
Its half the fun!
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Hi Tom
Have gone to electronic ignition - just a whim - and can't check the static timing...
Have you got your ignition setting at idle?
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Turns out the alternator had two wires connected.
The large Brown/white The small brown/yellow.
The white wire goes to the coil!!
Silly me
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These are the wires that connect to the alternator.
The two on the left have a large spade terminal and are (from left) White and Brown/white.
The two on the right are (from left) brown/white and brown/yellow, I am not sure if the brown/white wire was knocked off when disconnecting?
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Here you go.
I really just wanted a picture with the wires connected?
Does it really not matter which terminal the thick brown/white or White connect to?
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Having got the engine back from the rebuilders I am in the process of putting her back in.
I took photographs of the wiring connections but I'm b***ered if I can find them.
Can anyone post a picture of the connections to the Alternator with the colour coding clear?
It's a Three pin alternator from a 69 TR6..
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Belated Happy Birthday
Lots of love
Mandy and Peter
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4 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
You originally stated it was a standard CC engine with 2500S head
My Fault - I double checked the cast and stamped serial numbers and it is a CR Head on a CC Bottom End.
4 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:Are you sticking with the vacuum advance and retard setup for driving economy purposes
No - There are no vacuum take offs on the Webers so I have ditched the Vacuum Advance.
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At last!!!
I have been trying to get sense out of these Carbs for weeks now and now I've set the timing correctly, it all falls into place
Thanks Guys for all your help and suggestions, I am now really pleased with the results.
Next stop rolling road for a measure up, will keep you posted.
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Hi Tom
Many thanks for that. I'll give those timing numbers a go in the morning....
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4 hours ago, ntc said:
I know
so n\a , you must get this right or you will never set them up right.
Hi NTC To clarify - I forget the Vacuum advance and Strobe set up at 800 rpm to 11 deg BTDC?
4 hours ago, Tom Fremont said:My pump inlet valves have closed bypasses. Try this to resolve your " stamping " hesitancy. All else is on par with the setup I have on my driver with the same cam and c/r.
I never had any luck with the F16 emulsion tubes; with these mine would fall flat on their face at WOT. What happened with the F7s?
Hi Tom - The F7s gave a similar result (hesitancy at full throttle) so I put the F16s in to see if there was any improvement. I have fitted Pump Bypasses that are rated nil/0 bleed-back. You will probably see from my recent posts, that I need to establish that the ignition timing is correct? I have been running the car at spec timing of 4 ATDC at idle, you will see in this post that NTC recommends, with the Vacuum advance disconnected, 11 deg BTDC. That is a big difference??
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10 minutes ago, ntc said:
With your setup you need 11 strobe btdc at 800rpm
Vacuum connected/disconnected? I do not have a Vacuum take off with the Webers!
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What about ignition timing? Book says at idle 4 deg ATDC with a strobe or 12 deg BTDC static.
I have an electronic Power Spark ignition Dizzy with Vacuum Advance, the manufacturers have said that leaving the Vacuum Advance disconnected is not a problem.
There is no vacuum take off with triple Webers, so what are your thoughts?
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180mm
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Google - TR6 Brown Book
You'll find PDF downloads of the original manual.
EFI for TR5/6?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
The following is an extract from the 'ClassicFuelInjection' website;
"During self learn the CFI system continually monitors the exhaust gasses and uses these results to correctly calculate the correct amount of fuel required at any given time.
To initially calibrate or map the system all you need to do is connect your laptop and run the software and then drive the vehicle.
It will then monitor the fuelling and automatically adjust the fuel maps as required, all you need to do is drive.
The 3D tables allow you to specify 100's of individual values of spark ignition timing and fuelling based on engine speed, throttle angle, manifold vacuum etc.
Normally after just a few varied driving trips the system will have learnt all it needs.
At this point you no longer need the laptop and you can just drive the vehicle as you would normally."
How does this system differ from the Megasquirt or Emerald systems or is it just a more advanced system?