unclepete
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Posts posted by unclepete
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It's official!
Burlen came back to me today and at some time during the 70s Zenith/Stromberg went Metric, the thread size is M7.........
Thanks for all your input and help as ever
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9 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
7 mm is a bit big for 1/4” which is 6.4 mm.
Perhaps one of the 1/4” sized threads? BSF/BSW/UNF/UNCIt's some Ba';"rd size! SUs and Strombergs have some dodgy threads sizes and I've asked this question before. I'll contact Burlen (when they open) and hopefully get some answers.....Thanks anyway Peter
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I am currently setting up Triple Stromberg Carbs on my 6.
The Carbs I have sourced from TR8/Stag and Rebuilt/Cleaned.
Now I need to connect them together, The Throttle shafts measure 7mm Dia and are Flatted off and threaded but what thread size?
It looks like an M7 thread (nearly!). Any Clues would be helpful.
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Another quote from the Doctor!
"I would think you need about 32 degrees max advance , with static of 12 , that necessitates a distributor that will yield 20 degrees, so it would have a 10 degree cam in it"
He's going to analyse my 22D dizzy and sort me out weights, springs and limit cam to suit.
I would love to run my dizzy on one of those old school "Sun" machines!
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On 4/17/2023 at 3:11 PM, Chilliman said:
Never had vacuum pipes on any of mine Pete, in fact when Martin built my last dizzy he blanked off the hole. You sure it's not just a case of tweaking mixture screws or altering the idle jets to improve the transition from the idle circuit to the mains?
On 4/17/2023 at 11:58 PM, Bfg said:If I understand your parle.. my 4A SU carbs seemed balanced but the engine suffered spluttering at bottom end pick up. Pulling away from junctions or from tight corners was horrid. I sorted that by very accurately synchronizing the link rods, so each carb started to pick up at exactly the same moment. Your Webers wouldn't have the same rod linkage but still each carb and each choke must start to open at the same time and by the same amount.
My Dizzy is going off to the Doctor!
To quote Martin "You can't satisfactorily connect vacuum advance with Webers, so you need to optimise the centrifugal advance to compensate for that & the mods that have been done"
Watch this space.....
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I know it's been nearly a year since my last post on this subject but I hope some of you guru's out there will have an answer..?
The engine all runs fine except it gets a little bit buried when accelerating from tickover which is a pain in traffic!
Where on the Carbs do you connect the vacuum pipe from the dizzy? I have heard you can fit a barbed fitting in one of the air bypass screw holes?
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Sorry Wrong Subject!
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I am getting a little concerned that we haven't got any tickets available yet?
I've booked accommodation but it would be nice to know if we've got an event to go to?
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During your rebuild did you dismantle the Camshaft, Camchain etc?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SOFUFwmsvs&list=PLLWNLIF9Lk942lpfh84HxBI_9fl099hQJ&index=9&t=1262s
Installation of the Distributor drive gear is critical and fairly easy to check.
I've attached Elin Yakov's Video where he covers this in a TR6 engine rebuild.
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2 hours ago, Schnippel said:
with 6 individual flaps 280+ degrees camshaft and it is worth considering working with an air mass meter.
The sharp camshafts provide far too little vacuum to regulate. The result is a signal that is very difficult to handle.Hi Ralph
Lost something in translation?
Peter
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On 12/21/2022 at 2:50 PM, FatJon said:
If you just use one port the vacuum signal is very poor.
Likewise the Brake Servo? With the Bahstuck manifold there is only 1 takeoff for the Brake Servo, I have a suspicion this has been giving me problems with braking?
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On 12/21/2022 at 2:50 PM, FatJon said:
I joined them all together in a little manifold
Hi Jon, Did you drill and tap all 6 manifolds?
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1 hour ago, FatJon said:
Not sure if the link will work
Worked fine Jon.
On 12/21/2022 at 2:50 PM, FatJon said:I joined them all together in a little manifold then took off a connection to the FPR and the ECU
When you say ECU do you mean the MAP sensor?
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19 hours ago, FatJon said:
I joined them all together in a little manifold then took off a connection to the FPR and the ECU. If you just use one port the vacuum signal is very poor.
I did look at this as a solution but wouldn't you get bleed back through the other manifolds?
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On 7/31/2022 at 8:21 PM, marki said:
Emerald were fantastic when I did my conversion about 5yrs ago, better fuel economy and an extra 20hp on the rolling rd.
I’m also running an idle air control valve, starts just like a modern. You don’t even have to get in when it’s cold to start it.
Hi Marki
I seem to be having a problem getting an answer to a question about retro EFI on a TR6. As you seem to have the setup closest to how I envisage mine ending up, I thought you may be able to help. I have a US TR6 CC car with a high compression head and a TR6 CP cam which I am running on Triple 40dcoe's with a Bahstuck manifold.
If I convert to EFI I would retain the Bahstuck Manifold and have aquired 3 Jenvey Throttle bodies. With a Fuel Pressure Regulator (all of which I have looked at have a Vacuum take off) which needs to be connected to the inlet manifold, somewhere near the injectors and after the throttle bodies? With the Bahstuck inlet manifold there is no inter connecting balance pipe, so I have, in effect, 6 individual inlet manifolds! Where on earth does the FPR vacuum pipe go???
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18 minutes ago, JochemsTR said:
you still need a fuelrail
Yes I have a fuel rail and the FPR is mounted at the end. It is the connection to the Vacuum take off I have having difficulty with?
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I have a Bahstuck manifold and have aquired Jenvey style throttle bodies, bearing in mind I have, in effect, 6 separate inlet manifolds, how do I rig up a connection to the fuel pressure regulator?
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20 hours ago, FatJon said:
In some systems the manifold one is not present and a throttle angle sensor is used for fuelling calculations. That is quite common when using a throttle plate per cylinder where manifold vacuum is not a reliable indicator of fuel requirements.
That whole article is interesting but it also raises as many questions as it answers.
If I am reading this right, the fuel pressure is regulated electronically by an algorithm within the throttle position signal? I would suppose that the inlet manifold vacuum pressure at the injectors can be physically measured or calculated and a graph drawn within the software of the ECU to match the lowering in manifold pressure (vacuum) relative to rises in RPM? Simples!!!
Is there an aftermarket ECU on the market that handles this?
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3 minutes ago, FatJon said:
For EFI the fuel rail is (almost) always pressure referenced to the manifold vacuum such that the differential pressure across the injector is always the same.
Good point!
I have seen on some 'Customer photographs' the MAP sensors located in the inlet plenum just after the Throttle Body. This is nowhere near the injectors and I would have thought the Inlet manifold adjacent to the injectors would have a far higher suction pressure, or is this not so important?
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6 hours ago, FatJon said:
Don’t do it. Hot fuel sat in a fuel rail in a traffic jam with no circulation. It overheats the fuel which vaporises, the engine goes lean and bad stuff happens. It’s a bodge to far just to save 2.5m of return hose. Even the old Lucas at least had a small bleed back from MU to tank.
Hi FatJon
Would the above apply with a pressure controlled pump (Variable Speed) with a pressure sensor on the fuel rail?
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What about positioning the Fuel Pressure Regulator?
I have been looking at the Returnless or Dead Head injection setup and it would seem a simpler method and only require a single fuel pipe to the engine bay?
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1 hour ago, CK's TR6 said:
One problem with single TB is tip in response
What is 'tip in response' ?
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That is a whole lot of information!
One more question again.
6 Throttle bodies or just 1 ?
Clutch problem. Boooo!
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
If this was the case surely he wouldn't be able to get it in gear?