Kiwifrog
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Posts posted by Kiwifrog
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Hi Phil,
The TR4 origonally had what is referred to as a "fur-flex" door seal that fitted into the channel you are talking about they tended to trap water and rot the channel away. Most have been discarded as they did not work very well and replaced with the TR6 type seal that clips onto the edge of the door opening. This means that you dont need the seperate rubber seal as well. It is best to clip some of the seal round the opening and test fit the doors before finally welding in the new sills to make sure everything is in place and the doors will close correctly when finished.
Cheers
Alan
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My Uncle used to work for MG in Abingdon ( no wait before you boo and hiss it is related to this thread) from the late fifties untill the plant closed. He said that when he was younger he was amazed by the guys in the finishing department " Quality control
" as they used to walk up and down the line "Adjusting " the panel fit. As by this time the cars had been painted most of the work involved inserting lumps of wood between the doors and body etc and gently leaning on the doors etc so that they were gently made more or less curved to fit the door openings. I can only imagine the bashing that went on before painting if the cars still needed adjustment after painting!!! long live BMC no er British Leyland ......oh bum!!!!
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Damn fine car, and we have the weather and the roads to use them here as well
. I do not miss English winters and even less the packed English roads
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Hi Tony
Thought as much but it is not mentioned in any book that I have access to and the Americans get up to some funny stuff sometimes. Usually clever funny stuff where cars are concerned.
Cheers
Alan
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I have the official french technical spec for a 3a, which is required to register Non EU imported cars in France, which a car imported from the USA becomes even if it was made in the EU.
On that it lists the wieghts as
Kerb wieght 955KG
Total train weight 1100KG
Which gives a weight of 145 KG for passangers and trailor, eg you can not legaly tow a trailor with the car. I am not sure of the rules in the UK but that kind of rules it out in France.
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Benran,
Are the front wings origonal stanpart or reproductions. The reason I ask is that I have a TR4 which had (really) rusty front wings. I got a hold of a steel repro front wing to see what It was like and i noticed that the wing was not as deep as the origonal stanpart wings by almost 1/2 Inch and the wheels ( 72 spoke wires) had less horizontal clearance between the edge of the wheelarch and the rim of the tire. Needless to say I have now spent many hours repairing the stanpart wings. I was wondering if anyone else had had a simular situation
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Clive
Talking about posting pictures do you have any more new photos of your TR2. The detailed and interesting postings of its restoration are what got me interested in the forum to start with.
Cheers
Alan
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This is a question I am sure I already know the answer to, but then again I am ready to be surprised. My TR4 is a USA import and I am in the process of rebuilding it ( as usual started off as a tidy up). My question is this, on almost every USA import I have seen the engine bay is painted black. Was this standard Triumph practice ( no pun intended) or is it a case of mass hypnotism of american enthusiasts by a paint company with loads of black paint left over from model T ford production ?
Cheers
Alan
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The picture that got me thinking is in this auction http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws....17&rd=1 ( sorry have no web hosting for piccies) and the head unit doesn't look like the one in clives piccie.
PS the cars still for sale would make a nice garden ornament if nothing else.
Standard disclaier, I have nothing to do with the car or auction, I was just interested in parts interchangability!
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I was Just browsing the ebay as one does and I came across a picture of the interior of a Mayflower. The steering wheel and centre boss ( horn button and indicators) look just like the one on my 3a. Could someone "in the know" confirm or deny this ?
Cheers
Alan
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I have to replace the gaiters on my steering rack as they are both split. In the good old days when you could buy BMC ( British leyland was always BMC in New Zealand) gaitor kits they used to come with a small tube of lubricant. I have checked my haines manual and it lists Castrol LM grease as the correct lubricant for the rack. Can anyone tell me what the modern equivilent would be.
Thanks
Alan
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With a carefull application of a lighter, the morning after said curry and Kingfishers, jet assistance may result helping break the 300MPH and creating said vapour trails. n'est-ce pas ?
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I am about to start to get ready to replace the outer and inner sills on my tr4 as they are presently held on by pop rivets and filler. I have read a couple of books and magazine articles on the procedure which stress the trial fitting of everything before final welding as well as taking plenty of datum references etc.
I can not find any real advise on removing the origonal sills. My main worries are how to free the bottoms of the door pillars etc with distortion. As the current sills have been pop rivited on the bend under the door at the edge of the step I will need to disconnect the bottoms of the A & B post's and the footwell to get the remainder of the origonal sills free. Any advise on the best way of doing this would be greatly welcome.
Thanks in advance
Alan
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It's also good to hear of someone else who’s run a Lucas pump without any probs. & in a hotter climate! How long ago was it? was it “proper” leaded fuel or lead replacement/lead free
I have to admit it was about 11 years ago now and I think it was "low Lead " fuel as New Zealand was phasing out lead in the early 90's. Thinking about this frightens me a bit, I was only coming to Europe for a 3 month holiday and here I am 12 years later stuck on the other side of the planet with 1 French wife 2 kids 2 cats a rabbit and in a country where they talk a funny language (French) that was not designed for the Anglo -Saxon tongue!
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I used to run a 6 with the original Lucas pump In New Zealand and the temprature in Summer there regularly used to get in the mid 30s centergrade and I never had a problem with vaporisation on long trips of 4-5 hours at high speeds. I was always on the look out for it having read all the tales of overheating fuel pumps etc. I am with Chris in that I think you should check out your pump condition and fuel pressures before splashing out on conversion kits coils coolers etc.
Does your 6 not have a inertia cut out switch fitted for the fuel pump, I always used to use that to immobilise my 6 when parking.
Alan
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In Roger Williams book on restoring TR4-4a There is a passage that states that the TR250 had a lowered compression ratio compared to the TR5. I guess difference may be in the head design. Not much help to Rob, but maybe a reason to buy a 250 ??
Alan
Gap between the bottom of doors and the sill
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi All
I have a question I need an answer to. I am in the process of replacing the sills on my 4 with a pair recovered from a trashed TR6. I have been told these are the same and they even have the same new part numbers from moss.
I am doing 1 side at a time to keep my refences but there is a problem. I have tacked the new sill on the RHS of the car in place and trial fitted the wings and door all of which fit really well, well almost. Between the bottom of the door and the top of the sill there is a gap I can put my finger into ( about 1 -1.5cm).
The a and B posts are sitting where they should all the other gaps are fine.
When I trial fit the door on the other side where I have not started work the gap is smaller, but the origonal sill has a piece of aliminum pop rivited on to it then is smeared with copious amounts of filler.
My questions are this.
Should there be a gap ?
How big should it be?
Thanks for your help on this one
Alan